B1700 HSD - irregular cranking.

[SDT]

Just an update on this,. Called my local dealer and on my B1700 there is no relay. From their experience they are looking at one of two things. The first is the positive battery cable and the second being the harness itself. Need to pull that center console off after I wrestle that roll pin out of the throttle handle so I can access that harness. But first I'll get on that power cable from the battery and check it out.

Update to similar issue with my 1993 B1750, dated, 04/01/20, above.

Due to lack of other options, I did replace the key switch some time ago and, initially, it once again appeared that the problem had been solved but the intermittant no crank issue returned within a short while.

Recently, I again inspected the fuseable link in the wireing harness at the solenoid, again finding nothing wrong. Still, Kubota saw to fit to include a spare (along with a couple of conventional fuses) with the materials delivered to me with the tractor in 1993. Since I had a new one, I installed.

Yet again, it appears that the problem has been solved but it has been only a few crank cycles since doing so.

If the problem returns, I plan to build and install a new battery cable (about 40") to connect where the battery negative cable bolts to the transaxle beside the seat, and one of the starter mounting bolts.

Running out of options, here.

SDT

 

[johnjk]

Update to similar issue with my 1993 B1750, dated, 04/01/20, above.

Due to lack of other options, I did replace the key switch some time ago and, initially, it once again appeared that the problem had been solved but the intermittant no crank issue returned within a short while.

Recently, I again inspected the fuseable link in the wireing harness at the solenoid, again finding nothing wrong. Still, Kubota saw to fit to include a spare (along with a couple of conventional fuses) with the materials delivered to me with the tractor in 1993. Since I had a new one, I installed.

Yet again, it appears that the problem has been solved but it has been only a few crank cycles since doing so.

If the problem returns, I plan to build and install a new battery cable (about 40") to connect where the battery negative cable bolts to the transaxle beside the seat, and one of the starter mounting bolts.

Running out of options, here.

SDT

I pulled both battery cables to check condition and drop across them. Resistance on both was .1 Ohm, no visible damage and good clean connectors. I had maybe .1 V drop on the positive side from the battery to the starter. I did clean up the negative terminal where it connects to the frame. Took a wire wheel to the connectors on the negative cable, the bolt and washers that connect to the frame and made everything nice and clean. Coated them up with a bit of grease to help prevent corrosion and back together it all went. Started right up after that but on Saturday, it was back to its old tricks. I Used my jumper cables between the battery and the starter to eliminate the positive cable and that did not resolve the issue. I have not tried that fuseable link other than to take it out, clean all contacts and verify it checked good.

I had no luck getting that roll pin out from the throttle lever so that battle rages on. Once I do get it out and that cover off, I may just run a new wires from the ignition switch to the starter to eliminate any possible breakage in the harness. I have a replacement ignition switch on order. Might as well replace it while I'm in there.

One thing I have not done is to jumper out the safety switches one at a time. I did verify they were working but did not verify that entire circuit for continuity.

 

[lugbolt]

learn how to do a voltage drop test

u will find the problem quickly and efficiently