B series Three Point Hitch compatibility

dookanooka

New member

Equipment
B6000
Oct 25, 2009
25
0
0
Australia
hi, first off, this is a great site and a credit to all who've made it happen, the quality of content is amazing. So, onto my question. I've just bought a B6000 without a 3PH and wanting to get one. I've found a wrecker who has them for a B7100 and B6100. Are either compatible? Are there extra brackets or such I might need to ask specifically for?

thanks, Ben
 

Service Dept Vic

Moderator
Staff member
Vendor Member
Feb 15, 2009
2,512
2
38
Southern Alberta Canada
You should latch onto that 3 point, either one will work. Make sure that you also get the upper 3 point hitch "top link" bracket. It's the bracket with 3 position holes for the top link. Your B6000 will only have a "chain" holder where that bracket should be.

If you get into trouble let me know. I have a complete new 3 point and new Kubota top link bracket from a B6100.
 

dookanooka

New member

Equipment
B6000
Oct 25, 2009
25
0
0
Australia
hi,
thanks for the response, much appreciated. I have another related question. Could the rear be missing any other parts around the PTO judging from the picture below? Sorry for the image size and quality. Also, I guess there's no way to test out the hydraulics without adding a 3 point hitch? I haven't managed to get out to the tractor yet, but will have the weekend for a good look around it.



thanks so much,
Dookanooka
 
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HeyDoc

New member

Equipment
B 7510
Oct 18, 2009
17
0
0
Conn.
Hey Guys, GREAT FORUM! Really informative and enjoyable. Along the same lines of this topic, I have an old 5100 that which needs 3PH hard ware. It is classified as Cat. 1 and I am finding 2 different lengths: 28" lower arms with 20-25" lift arms and top link OR 23" lower arms with 15-19" lifts and top link. From what I can tell, the shorter hardware seems to be correct for my tractor but anyone know for sure? Thanks, Doc
 

Service Dept Vic

Moderator
Staff member
Vendor Member
Feb 15, 2009
2,512
2
38
Southern Alberta Canada
Dookanooka, looking at that photo it looks like the PTO stub shaft is covered by a protective sleeve???? or cover???, and I'm not seeing any arms attached to the rockshaft, or a rockshaft for that matter!

Any chance of uploading a few more pics of greater clarity??
 

dookanooka

New member

Equipment
B6000
Oct 25, 2009
25
0
0
Australia
hi SD Vic,
thanks for taking a look for me. I got the tractor for a great price and she runs beautifully, but this might be her Achilles Heal? It would be great to know exactly what i'm up for installing.

As you can see, what you thought was some kind of cap is the previous owner being overzealous with a paintbrush, I think it's undercoat.

cheers,
Dookanooka
 

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Kytim

New member

Equipment
B6000DT, B7100DT,Snowplow, RM360, Scoop, Cultivator, Carryall,Disk, plow
Aug 14, 2009
848
0
0
Western Ky
Hey dookanooka, it also looks like the stub shaft isn't correct for the snaplock type drivelines (driveshaft). others may can correct me but check out rotation direction and such before investing in those kinds of implements.

good luck, tim
 

dookanooka

New member

Equipment
B6000
Oct 25, 2009
25
0
0
Australia
hi Kytim, Dusty-t, SD Vic
thanks for the info. I did see there was no horizontal depressions up the pto shaft, but it's still 18 splines. I'll confirm the direction, but i'm not expecting it to be different from the normal B6000.

Dusty-t, your picture shows quite well what I can't find in the B6000 parts manual, ie. (for want of a better word :confused:) the assemblage around the PTO Shaft for which the tractor just has holes or protruding threads for bolts or nuts.

I think i'm getting the picture on the 3pt hitch end of things. Would the Rockshaft be the bit that the bottom hitch arms move on? I guess this isn't included in the normal 3pt hitch assembly then.

Another thing, having studied the parts manual, is that the lever control (66571-36442) has been sawn off, which makes me wonder what they were thinking there. I'd think one of my first jobs would be to replace that and see if the hydraulics are working ok? Would that be the best way to start and the best way to test the hydraulics?

thanks for your assistance all,
Dookanooka
 

TopGear

New member
Mar 21, 2009
68
0
0
Australia
Hi dookanooka

There is nothing missing from your pto shaft. Its standard 18 spline b6000. The four bolts you see are too hook up a rotary hoe for the unit - S850. The hoe uses the 18 spline pto shaft and the four bolt holes for attachment rather than a standard 3 ph.

You will need to buy an adaptor to use a standard slasher though that converts your 18 spline pto shaft to the standard 6 spline 1 3/8 dia. shaft see http://www.bareco.com.au/files/pto2002/pto8.htm these are around $70 AUD.

Your pto will run CCW but I don't think this is much of a problem for slashers - see my earlier posts.

Hope this helps.

Cheers John

P.S. for the 3 ph lever thats been cut off you should be able to grab onto it with pliers and rotate it and see if it lifts the hitch up and down.
 

dookanooka

New member

Equipment
B6000
Oct 25, 2009
25
0
0
Australia
thanks TopGear, bang on the money.

I took the pliers to what's left of the hydraulic control lever... moving backwards did nothing. Moving it forwards created a crunching gear kind of a noise somewhere in the engine, like metal engaging on metal but not a scream. I couldn't say for sure where. However, I backed it straight back to vertical upon hearing that.
Any thoughts what might be going on?

cheers,
Dookanooka
 

TopGear

New member
Mar 21, 2009
68
0
0
Australia
Hi Doonkanooka

Not sure what the problem would be. If the noise is coming from the motor its probably the hydraulic pump. However I wonder why you don't get this noise all the time? As the pump should be running whenever the motor runs. Have you traced the return and delivery hydraulic lines from the pump back to the rear end and are they all OK? You should be able to see them in the parts manual. At the motor end I think the pump is about the only thing that would cause this noise? Maybe someone else will have some ideas.

My guess is that the control lever was cut off for some reason or due to some problem. You just need to diagonise what that problem is:eek:

Maybe others will have some suggestions.

Cheers John
 

dookanooka

New member

Equipment
B6000
Oct 25, 2009
25
0
0
Australia
hi TopGear,
it was my thought too that the noise was from the pump. I've done some research since, and it would appear the hydraulic pump on a B6000 is a gear pump. Hearing those noises and thinking it's like disengaged gears coming together...mmmm...is a possible cause coming together here.

What I also thought is that the noise didn't sound 'wet', moist maybe ;). So, potentially there's no oil making it to the pump, or perhaps whatever is supposed to mesh together is worn. As you say though TopGear, why the scrunching only at one extreme of the lever?

I traced the 2 pipes and they both look correct. I didn't try to tighten things up, I shall do that tonight. I also haven't looked at the filter.

Also, the previous owner of the tractor said he'd just done a transmission fluid change. From further reading I came across 'cavitation', which seems to be air in the fluid, but given someones sawn off the lever earlier, I wouldn't say that's likely to be the core problem.

I also came across this,

The B6000 has a hydraulic pump like all the Kubota compacts.i.e. a tang engages with a slot in the fuel pump drive shaft.
but don't really understand this interaction and whether this could have something to do with the noise/problem?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated from folks out there. Being a rank amateur at all this the more knowledge i'm armed with the better, especially as i'm cautious over emptying the transmission of oil without having a full plan over seeing what could be wrong.

thanks,
Ben
 
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dookanooka

New member

Equipment
B6000
Oct 25, 2009
25
0
0
Australia
B6000 hydraulic problems

hi,
well, I finally got an opportunity to check out the B6000's hydraulic problems. For starters, I emptied out the transmission oil which I think is about a litre under what it should be....not a great start. It looked a bit dirty, and a little silty right at the bottom. No strange smell, no milkyness in the main fluid.

I then checked out the hydraulic filter and that was really very clean, just the odd, maybe 1mm square gummy white bits, which I cleaned off with Kerosene. Just inside the transmission bottom there's a few very fine metal shavings and a few grains of dirt.

Then I unscrewed and took off the control valve. Moving the valve with the pliers, it certainly was moving ok. It seems to partially cover the exit to the rockshaft and such on either side when moved backward and forward, one half covered, then the other. I guess this is correct behaviour! I decided against proceeding in taking apart the valve assembly further. One thing I couldn't look at or get to was the relief valve, which I believe is inside top.
One thing I noticed here was there didn't seem to be much oil really, and there was a little milkyness, only slight, in what came out of the valve.

Then, I removed the 9 top screws that appear to hold on the rear case top. However, it wouldn't budge for love or money! I then tried to remove the front section where you can feed off the hydraulics. On my Japanese B6000 there's just a bolt there. Here, the oil was quite dirty and there was a noticeable burnt kind of smell. Also, a fair small fingernails worth of white gummy material. I unscrewed the 4 bolts holding this on, but again, while there was some play, I couldn't get this to budge either.

I added a few pictures below. What's on the tip of the screwdriver is what looked a lot more milky in the other photo shining into the auxilliary hydraulic outlet. There are 2 showing what bolts I removed on the top to try to get the top off. The last just shows where I took off the control valve.

I don't have any easy way to check hydraulic pressure or flow, so I haven't done that.

So, onto my questions...

* is there enough evidence hear to start drawing a conclusion over the problem, what are your thoughts?

* could gummyness be due to this oil not having been changed for a long time (I have no idea when it was last done)? I guess milkyness is water? What could the burnt sort of smell be caused by up where the auxilliary hydraulics would exit?

* How do you remove the top rear case, and the front hydraulic feed? I'd like to see if the piston seals are ok. There are 2 screws on the horizontal below the top case on the back of the tractor that are connected by a piece of wire. The diagrams I have suggest these hold on a plate inside, so is not a good idea to take these out then? Is there anything else I need to undo to take this top off, or is just a matter of brute force? If I took it off, would I be up for a new case seal?

Sorry there's so many questions. I took on this myself as I want to learn, but then I don't want to do anything wrong either, lol! And I have noone but you guys to ask.

thanks for any help,
Dookanooka
 

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dusty-t

New member
Feb 17, 2009
975
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0
Mountforest Ontario
Hey dookanooka. I believe the rock shaft is the top shaft with the splines. Everything you have discovered at the back of the tractor seems to indicate that the hydraulics have not been used for a long time. I imagine the tph lever was cut off so that it didn't get used and make that awfull grinding sound. I would have a look at the hydraulic pump. That is where I would start. There may be nothing wrong with the rest of the hydraulic system. Just my opinion, and I have been wrong before. Good luck and keep us posted. :D:D Dusty