Attaching a rear view mirror

[Frankb]

I am trying to attach a rear view mirror from a car to the underside of my canopy. I used JB Weld to adhere the button from mirror to a 2"X3" piece of metal, and want to now mount the metal to the fiberglass canopy.
Does anyone have any good advise on best way to attach the small metal plate other then drilling and bolting to canopy?
I am not sure if the JB Weld will hold the mirror in place or not.

 

[E/S]

You could sand off a spot on the fiberglass and attach it with fiber & resin (will be a pain to do overhead).

E/S

 

[Frankb]

Fiber and resin was my first thought, but as you said, it is a pain to do overhead. I found a couple of 3/16 stainless steel bolts and two fender washers in my misc. box. I was thinking of maybe I would have to drill the smaller holes and put the bolts and fender washers from outside in, and put a couple lock washers and lock nuts on the inside. I could add a 2"X3" rubber backing pad between the canopy and steel plate to absorb any vibrations.
I took the washers and bolts and spray painted Kubota Orange to blend with the canopy. I will wait until tomorrow to see how the paint covered the metal parts, and if it looks good enough I just might do the drilling after all. I just hope there will not be too much weight against the canopy to cause a crack near the bolt heads.

 

[E/S]

If it were me I would drill a slightly larger hole, put a grommet in the hole then install your hardware. Less likely to crack the fiberglass.

E/S

 

[Frankb]

If I were to install a grommet, the hole would have to be considerably larger to fit in and around the hole, unless there is a grommet I am not aware of.

 

[E/S]

It would probable need to be 3/8" to 1/2" depending on the bolt size.

E/S

 

[Eric McCarthy]

You could always go to the auto store and buy a brand new rear view mirror that comes with the adhesive to attatch the mirror. If the adheasive is strong enough to bond the mirror to glass I dont see why it wont stick to metal or fiber glass. The mirrors only run a couple of bucks!

 

[Frankb]

E/S
The standard mirror was about $12.00. That was my route until my neighbor gave me his mirror out of his Dodge he wrecked recently. I was able to get the mounting button and all. The only concern I had was attaching the button to the fiberglass on the underside of the canopy which is very rough and course. It does not have any finish to it at all. I had a small convex mirror mounted in the same place that I bought at Advanced Auto which has the "peel and stick" tape to it. I put a small dab of JB Weld to the center area that did not have the self stick and the mirror stayed put until I just ripped it off to put the regular mirror on. Now the new mirror has a bit more weight to it and there is where my concerns come in to place. I have great faith in the JB Weld as I have used it in many different circumstances with great results, but never with the rough fiberglass surface.
the button seems to be holding very well so far onto the backing plate I mounted it to. I just need to mount the plate now.
As I said earlier, I have grommets, but they are for running wire through metal. I am not sure where to look for the other grommets you spoke of.

 

[E/S]

E/S
The standard mirror was about $12.00. That was my route until my neighbor gave me his mirror out of his Dodge he wrecked recently. I was able to get the mounting button and all. The only concern I had was attaching the button to the fiberglass on the underside of the canopy which is very rough and course. It does not have any finish to it at all. I had a small convex mirror mounted in the same place that I bought at Advanced Auto which has the "peel and stick" tape to it. I put a small dab of JB Weld to the center area that did not have the self stick and the mirror stayed put until I just ripped it off to put the regular mirror on. Now the new mirror has a bit more weight to it and there is where my concerns come in to place. I have great faith in the JB Weld as I have used it in many different circumstances with great results, but never with the rough fiberglass surface.
the button seems to be holding very well so far onto the backing plate I mounted it to. I just need to mount the plate now.
As I said earlier, I have grommets, but they are for running wire through metal. I am not sure where to look for the other grommets you spoke of.

Same grommets.
Your other option since your using a glue on windshield mirror is to use a moto tool, make a small smooth spot on the fiberglass and JB weld the mirror foot.

E/S

 

[Frankb]

I was hoping to just JB Weld the2"x3" plate that I attached the mounting foot to for more mounting surface. I will wait a couple days as the weather is getting cold at night here. We are supposed to get some warm days again with warm nights following. I think that would be a better time to apply the JB Weld in place. I will clean up the fiberglass first with my Dremel.

 

[DickSnyder]

Could you use epoxy resin to stick them together?
Dick

 

[Frankb]

Not sure. That is why I posted. I hate to drill and bolt, but if that is what I have to do to keep the mirror in place I will. I just don't want to crack the canopy.

 

[E/S]

If you LB weld the plate in place you should have no problems.

E\S

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Dumb question but where you are trying to stick the 2x3 hunk of metal, is there anyway you can stick a long hose clamp therw there and tighten it down??

 

[Frankb]

I took the button that the mirror mounts to and attached it to the 2"x3" piece of flat metal with JB Weld so I would have a larger surface to mount mirror to. I just drilled two 3/16" holes in the plate. One hole on either side of the button. I will attempt to drill two matching holes in the front of the overhang of the fiberglass canopy where I will slide two 3/16" stainless steel bolts with fender washers through the canopy from the outside and mount the plate on the inside of canopy and attach two fender washers and stop nuts. Then I hope to slide the mirror onto the mounting button that is attached to the plate!

 

[Frankb]

Finished attaching the mirror to the canopy.
I mounted a piece of 2"x3" rubber behind the mounting plate to help absorb any vibration in the mirror so I don't crack the canopy while going over bumps and holes.
Here are a couple pics of the finished product.

 

[Frankb]

Here is a pic of inside close-up.
If you notice, I had to mount the mirror button upside down in order to be able to see into the mirror behind me. If I had mounted the button the correct way, I would not have enough angle adjustment to lift the mirror up to see the traffic behind me. I would only be able to see my lap!
I did drill a deeper indent into the button so the retaining screw seats deeper into the button so the mirror would not slide off the mount. It was the only way to do it that I could see. I tried every angle and this was the only way it would work for me.

 

[rongarrett]

How about the vibration? That is my main concern about the mirror. Also what is your vision range?

 

[Frankb]

The mirror acts the same as if I were sitting in my pick up truck. No blurred vision nor is there any vibration at all.

 

[rongarrett]

The mirror acts the same as if I were sitting in my pick up truck. No blurred vision nor is there any vibration at all.

Good deal. The shakiness and vibration is what I was woried about. I too have a fiberglass top. I think I am going to attach a wide angle rear view mirror to the same spot on my tractor with JB weld. I have had very good luck using that stuff.