Am I crazy?? Box blade, grader blade 2-in-1...??

J-Lott-Peru

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Kubota B2650
Nov 14, 2021
6
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1
Chanchamayo, Peru
Am I crazy?? Box blade, grader blade 2-in-1...??

Ok. So. Context. I live in Peru, South America where my implement options for purchase are very limited (especially CAT 1). I just bought a B2650. I need to do maintenance and some repair work on a private dirt road up a hillside.

(First time posting.)

I've been looking at both 3pt. box blade and grader blade...
Importing anything is crazy expensive, but have family that are mechanics and machine shop owners that will work with me to build some implements. Then I came across these pictures of Hayes blade with rippers on the back.
1636919056948.png

1636919111709.png

and had the idea... if I'm building myself with someone who will work with me on just about anything I think I can build, would it be crazy to have a 2-in-1 box blade and grading blade. Essentially, a box blade with removable walls, that can also tilt and angle when the walls are removed, and the rippers flipped up or removed...

Am I crazy? I've never seen anything like it and cant find anything besides the Hayes online Is there something that would seriously limit the functionality of either one of these, or make constructing it harder, or more expensive then building both on their own.... or should I file my patent?😂😂

Thanks in advance for all input, suggestions, criticism.
 

Fladogman

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Feb 1, 2020
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It's not really a box blade because it doesn't have sides to capture and move dirt. It's a grader blade with scarfiers to chip up hard pack dirt. Looks like a good heavy blade though. Any HD blade can easily have sides attached some even have factory made add ons. Hope this helps
 
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RCW

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I'm a big box blade fan for that kind of work. Understand your supply issue in Peru.

My concern with that implement would be when "ripping," if a tooth on the end of the blade caught something solid, it would twist the entire blade assembly, with just the center pull-point. If you look at a box blade, the ripper shanks are often in a 3x4 or 4x4 heavy walled tube to keep everything in check, and not twisted.

If you do have the ability to fabricate something, I think I would mirror the box blade design, but somehow accommodate a removable side plate.
 
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J-Lott-Peru

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Kubota B2650
Nov 14, 2021
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Chanchamayo, Peru
Thanks guys, For clarification, the pics I posted was my inspiration for making some type of 2-in-1. What I'm actually thinking of making is closer to a box blade design, except the walls would be removable, and add the tilt and angle function to the back portion. In the pic of the Hays the rippers are on the opposite side of the blade, so you either rip, or you blade, but not both, like a box blade can. Also the rippers are immediately close to the blade, where as with a box blade they are further up.

So parting from a box blade design.... Removable or raisable rippers, removable walls... so if I've removed both of those, I basically have a fixed blade (or no???) could I add tilt and angle functionality to that back blade?

So, considering RCW's comment, the ripper teeth would be on their own mount like a regular box blade, but the blade in the black adjustable.

So the reason I'd want that much blade function as opposed to straight up box blade is how bad my road actually is. It climbs a whole hill side for must of the route... a lot of it doesn't have a ditch on the hill side, which makes for bad erosion which will continue until ditch is put in. Also a lot of the road leans away from the hillside (downhill) when it should have a grade towards the hillside... so I need to move material from what is currently the higher hillside to the opposite side of the road... hence the more grader blade functionality....

Not sure if I'm even making sense... Lol. Just trying to decide if I should just up and build a box blade and separately a grader blade.... my feeling is I need both... but then the pics of the Hayes blade made me get to thinking if a 2-in-1 would be reasonable. To me the advantage on a longer road on a more remote, hillside road, is that flipping up/down the rippers and removing/attaching a sidewall might be easier than switching out implements, that maybe have to be left a ways a way...
 
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Tire Biter

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So a box blade has 2 blades, one facing forward and one facing back. The one facing back isn’t really “boxed” , so if you modify a box blade and make it so it can pivot, turn it around and it’s a grader blade. Sort of. The pivot can have pin holes for 45 deg. angle too.
 

edritchey

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I think a land plane would be a much better option or a traditional box blade itself.
 

fried1765

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Everything Attachments builds a regular rear blade with bolt on end options.
That design would satisfy your combined rear blade/box blade issues.
It would seem that your family fabricators could also create a Hayes type blade with those removable end plates.
 
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i7win7

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adding rear wheels may work better for grading, hoelscher also has a video of it
 

bird dogger

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Am I crazy?? Box blade, grader blade 2-in-1...??

Ok. So. Context. I live in Peru, South America where my implement options for purchase are very limited (especially CAT 1). I just bought a B2650. I need to do maintenance and some repair work on a private dirt road up a hillside.

(First time posting.)

I've been looking at both 3pt. box blade and grader blade...
Importing anything is crazy expensive, but have family that are mechanics and machine shop owners that will work with me to build some implements. Then I came across these pictures of Hayes blade with rippers on the back.
View attachment 69714
View attachment 69715
and had the idea... if I'm building myself with someone who will work with me on just about anything I think I can build, would it be crazy to have a 2-in-1 box blade and grading blade. Essentially, a box blade with removable walls, that can also tilt and angle when the walls are removed, and the rippers flipped up or removed...

Am I crazy? I've never seen anything like it and cant find anything besides the Hayes online Is there something that would seriously limit the functionality of either one of these, or make constructing it harder, or more expensive then building both on their own.... or should I file my patent?😂😂

Thanks in advance for all input, suggestions, criticism.
First....a hearty Welcome!!! And great choice of tractor!!

My comments are: I've had a small Cat 1 rear blade that was bought back in the '80s. The pivot pin and angle adjustment pin have and do take a beating depending on your conditions. So much so that i've repaired and beefed mine up a couple of times. If you build your new design, make sure your pivot pin/bearing and angle adjustment method is good and stout right from the start. My single pin for angle adjustment was a loose fit and not near strong enough. A pin on each side for matching holes would've been much much better. And especially so for your proposed design.

Your idea is very interesting!! You might want to draw up some simple design plans and post them here for comments, ideas, approval, etc. Lots of accumulated knowledge here and people who would be glad to offer assistance.

David
 
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Dustyx2

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Good video, but I wish it would have has some shots of it actually doing some dirt work!

Edit: AND to the OP, you are no more crazy than the rest of us tractor owners/users!
What the heck is the idea behind the spring on the tail wheel? I use the tail wheel on my blade to limit the cut or spread and take the undulating action out. That spring in there looks worse than useless.
 

joe9374

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b2601
Dec 17, 2016
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ohio
Just cut out the rear of a standard box blade and use it as a grader. Replace the rear panel when finished. Simple little cut and weld project
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S
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from your description in msg#4, I'd just use a 'rear grader blade', maybe add aremovable end on the 'high side'.That way material gets moved to where it's needed. If you angle the blade right, it'll 'pull' the material towards the end of the blade furtherst from the tractor.
An old heavy blade will probably work just fine.
BTDT for years, I also drag a series of chains behind to level off the material
While scarifiers(teeth) may help, you don't want then too deep, it'll cause the road to be 'fluffy' and wash out even faster ! You could try 2-3 sections of 'spike toothed' harrows.
 

J-Lott-Peru

New member

Equipment
Kubota B2650
Nov 14, 2021
6
0
1
Chanchamayo, Peru
Ok. So thank you everyone for your input so far. I've bought a cutting edge and we're working on a design that's basically tilt, angle cutting blade with removable side walls... What would be a good/best way to get either the scarifiers or (as @GreensvilleJay suggested) some spike toothed harrows in front of the blade, with out losing/compromising the tilt/angle function of the blade??Basically mimicking the design of Everything Attachments Deluxe Rear Scrape Blade


but with longer reinforcement on the back side of moldboard all the way to the ends so that I can bolt on the sidewalls.
Screen Shot 2021-11-21 at 10.22.02 PM.png


What-How can I add (halfway-ish along the main beam) as far as some type of teeth that I can remove/move out of the way when the blade is swinging??