Air Compressors

RCW

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Thanks for all the input guys.

Haven't done it yet, but think I will go with the IR 20 gallon Garagemate.

Been doing some internet searching, and don't think I'd jump for different 20-30 gallon unit quickly.

Just don't think a 60 will fit....as much as I want it to..

I will post a couple pics if/when I buy it - unless I stall to figure iff'n I can stuff a 60 in there......an IR 60 gallon single stage isn't much more $$......

Sun-of-an-onion, I put 2-220 outlets right there for a welder, compressor, and to back-feed the house through our generator. Just not enough wiggle room.

OOOHH the struggles.:confused:
 
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CaveCreekRay

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Do you have a disconnect for the main line into the house???

Aside from the hot male lead you plug in, if the power comes back on while you are powering your house main panel, the electronics in your generator will likely go "poof."

Just wondering...
 

Missouribound

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Thanks for all the input guys.

and to back-feed the house through our generator.

OOOHH the struggles.:confused:
Hopefully it's not as simple as you elude. Without a designated panel or disconnect switch it's a risky situation...for you and any lineman working on restoring the power.
 

RCW

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Do you have a disconnect for the main line into the house???
Hopefully it's not as simple as you elude. Without a designated panel or disconnect switch it's a risky situation...
All set there. Anytime a generator would be operated, the house would be disconnected from the outside utility.

Truthfully, when I've needed generator power it's usually easier to run extension cords to the stuff I want to run. In warm weather, I want to run freezers and refrigerator; the pellet stove in cold weather. Just easy to plug them in.

Thankfully, not out of power very often.
 

RCW

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Call me undecided...

Looked at:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-5-hp-air-compressor-60-gal

It would fit in my spot, but real tight. :confused::D:confused:

While much cheaper, the TSC Porter Cable 60 gallon there doesn't ring my bell much:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/porter-cable-stationary-belt-drive-air-compressor-60-gal

This is versus the one that I was sold on before. Tractor Supply has it at $499:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...tent=1592073&gclid=COD6mJa3u9ICFZRMDQod8ysE4A

As far as fit, at ~25" deep, the Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon is 4-5" deeper than the 20 gal portable. The width is identical, and height isn't an issue.

Like I said before, I have 2- 220v circuits there, both with 8 gauge THHN on 40A breakers. One is for the Lincoln 210MP welder. Since I have 8 wire, can change outlet or breaker as needed in 10 minutes, as long as it stays below 50A.

With the 60 gallon, I could run a regulator off the top for simple inflation, etc., and run another circuit off the side bung of the tank to another filter/dryer/regulator on the wall for tools, etc.?

Took me 12 years to buy a Kubota...surprised??:eek::p:p
 
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RCW

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Okay - will confuse things a little.

These all get good ratings, and I think first 2 are the same machine, just re-branded.

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Chicago-Pneumatic-RCP-226VP-Air-Compressor/p2041.html

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/BelAire-5026VP-Air-Compressor/p4743.html

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Quincy-Q12126VPQ-Air-Compressor/p12333.html

At 7.1, these are better CFM than the IR Garagemate at 5.2, but there are some mentions of poor quality with them. First thing I noted was the plastic line back to the switch, versus copper on the IR. Quincy looks like aluminum pump versus cast iron.

First 2 are dual voltage - good plus. The Quincy and IR are just 120.

Groomerbuck has great pictures of his IR Garagemate earlier in this thread, and really likes it. That one seems very well built, maybe better than the cheaper IR 60's.

Except for the IR 20 gallon, these 3 are all are same $$ as a 60 gallon IR at 14 CFM. The IR 60's have their poor reviews, too.

Really makes me want to stuff a 60 in there...............
 
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RCW

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Yep. 'Bout where I'm at.


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Tooljunkie

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Would be nice if you could hear them run before you buy. I prefer the slower running compressors, less noise and usually have a long service life.adding an additional tank will give you some volume when you need it.
 
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RCW

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Now for my son to get home to help unload. The 60 just wasn't going to fit.

Frank, I really wanted to hear them run, too! Not noise level as much as RPM.



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RCW

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I know there should be a break-in routine for many compressors, no mention in the owner's manual.

At first thought the OM sucked, but on second read, it's not too bad. But still, no mention of a break-in. Hmmmm....

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Tooljunkie

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I would let it run with air line open for an hour. My buddy, sitting right here used to rebuild compressors for a living. Ran them with no heads for 2 hours. Dribble a little oil in cylinder once in a while. With a fully assembled pump,the little vacuum pulled will draw a minute amount of oil so not needed.

Looks like a good unit. Hope it serves you well.
 

boz1989

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Looks like I'm a little late, there should be a tag on the motor that tells you the rpms, then looking at the pulleys would give you an idea of the speed

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RCW

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I would let it run with air line open for an hour.

Looks like a good unit. Hope it serves you well.
Thanks much, Frank. I will do just that. :) Probably will wait until it warms up a little!

It has some nice features - some better than the low-end IR 60 I was looking at.

I will send some pics of those niceties later.

200lbs and top-heavy, makes me think of some girls I knew in my MUCH younger days......:eek::p:eek::p
 
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RCW

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Some things the IR 20 has others similar do not.

Many compressors have real crappy drains that are hard to get to. You would want to add an extension and ball valve. This already has an easy to get to drain with ball valve.



The line to the pressure switch is copper. Several manufacturers use plastic line, which can melt, or get scraped up.



The pressure gauge for the tank is separate from the switch. Better to have gauge direct to the tank.



Some don't have a sight glass for oil level.




The fins on the feed to the receiving tank help cool the air going in - helps with moisture.



Extra bungs give opportunity to plumb in other air circuits off the side of the tank. The IR 60 gallon base model did not have them.



Started and sounded great. Did 60 minutes without pressure at Tooljunkie's suggestion. Built pressure from zero in 4:45 minutes after that.

No apparent leaks.

Very happy so far!


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North Idaho Wolfman

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I really hope you filled it with oil before you ran it, as the one picture shows an empty/ very low crank case. :eek:
 

RCW

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I really hope you filled it with oil before you ran it, as the one picture shows an empty/ very low crank case. :eek:
BING BING BING!! You win! After I posted those pictures, I figured somebody would say that.

Nah - it was filled before I ran it. ;);)

Not my first rodeo....but I have been known to do stuff like that!:eek::p

It's a good thing you point that stuff out. Another set of eyes are always a good thing!!

I appreciate you looking.

Thanks!
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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30" computer monitor...Things like that pop right out at ya! :D
 

RCW

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Looks like I'm a little late, there should be a tag on the motor that tells you the rpms, then looking at the pulleys would give you an idea of the speed
Boz - the motor is rated at 3,440 RPM.

The belt pulleys are 3" on the motor, and 10" pump.

So, guessing ~1,150 pump RPM? It's also a V-twin. Not sure what speed is fast or slow.

MUCH less noise than the old one.

Gosh - sold my motorcycle a year ago - - just thinking I replaced a V-twin Harley Davidson in favor of an air compressor?!.?!.?!.?!:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
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RCW

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Found it's spot. May pull regulator and re- plumb with two regulators.
One for a hose reel for tools, and a second for a coiled hose for inflation, etc.



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