7000 lb trailers
- Thread starter Jms63
- Start date
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
Here in Georgia, the DOT Enforcement will pull any pickup towing any trailer and inspect the trailer. Exceeding the GVWR can result in an out of service violation where you have to offload to another trailer capable of hauling the load within regulations.
Regarding the safety issues, there are a couple of things. The 10K trailer will (should be) running E series tires. Whereas the 7K trailers usually are running at least C but not usually E tires, thus increasing the likelihood of a blowout.
‘Also, 7K trailers are usually built “lighter” With smaller U and I beams. This becomes critic, especially in the tongue are, where depending on the design, can cause the tongue to break under regular travel but more likely under heavy braking. In other words, a 7K trailer usually has a lower tongue weight requiring the load to be moved further back which causes stability issues with heavy loads.
I use a 10K to haul my M7040 with loader and blade or loader and 84” mower (800lbs itself).
It’s a tough call to spend on a new trailer, but a 10K is definitely more stable in my opinion, for heavier loads. I see my BIL hauling his L series on a 20‘ trailer with loader and bush hog and it honestly scares me. I tow with a 3/4 ton truck and the trailer is a 10K GVWR. It’s stable.
Regarding the safety issues, there are a couple of things. The 10K trailer will (should be) running E series tires. Whereas the 7K trailers usually are running at least C but not usually E tires, thus increasing the likelihood of a blowout.
‘Also, 7K trailers are usually built “lighter” With smaller U and I beams. This becomes critic, especially in the tongue are, where depending on the design, can cause the tongue to break under regular travel but more likely under heavy braking. In other words, a 7K trailer usually has a lower tongue weight requiring the load to be moved further back which causes stability issues with heavy loads.
I use a 10K to haul my M7040 with loader and blade or loader and 84” mower (800lbs itself).
It’s a tough call to spend on a new trailer, but a 10K is definitely more stable in my opinion, for heavier loads. I see my BIL hauling his L series on a 20‘ trailer with loader and bush hog and it honestly scares me. I tow with a 3/4 ton truck and the trailer is a 10K GVWR. It’s stable.
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
You need to get the weight of the tractor, FEL, hog and the trailer and add them together. Also how long is the tractor and how long is the trailer? Just from a quick google search I am pretty sure you will be over the weight rating. What are you going to tow it with?
To answer your question you will need a few facts:
1 What is the GVW of the towing vehicle? This info is found on a sticker on the door jamb of the vehicle.
2 What is the weight rating of the front axle?
3 What is the weight rating of the rear axle?
4 What is the weight rating of the trailer axles? Look at the sticker on the front of the trailer.
5 Take the empty trailer hitched to the vehicle you plan on using to a public scale, truck stop, feed store, stone quarry and get an empty weight.
6 Look at the tow vehicle sticker and find the GCVW rating.
7 Subtract the total weight of the 2 pieces from the GCVW rating and this will give you the payload for your set up. If this number is greater then the weight of the tractor you are good to go.
This is my truck and trailer numbers.
I have a trailer that was de-rated by the manufacturer from 15,900 plus pounds to 14,500. The sticker on the trailer states there are 2- 7,000 axles. The truck is rated at 11,400 pounds. The front axle of the truck is rated at 4,800 and the rear at 8,200. My GCWR is there for 11,400 +14,500 = 25,900 pounds. If you add the 4 axles together it is 27,000 and it does not mean a damn thing.
If the front axle of the truck is greater then 4,800 then you get a ticket.
If the rear axle of the truck is greater then 8,200 then you get a ticket.
If the front axle of the trailer is greater then 7,000 then you get a ticket.
If the rear axle of the trailer is greater then 7,000 then you get a ticket.
If the combined total of all four axles is greater then 25,900 you get a ticket.
It is that simple.
The empty weight of my truck and trailer is 15,500.
GCVW of 25,900 - 15500 = 10,400 pay load.
As long as the weight of on each axle is under the rating as stated on the vehicles label your are golden, as long as the weight rating of the tires added together is greater the axle rating. For example I run a dually and the 4 tires on the rear axle are rated at 2680 each giving a total of 10,720 pounds. Far greater then the axle rating of 8,200. The trailer tires are rated at 4080 each, so the combined rating of 8160 is greater then the 7,000 rating.
That is what the DOT will look at as far as weight. I had the same DOT cop pull me over 4 different times trying to bust me and never could. The weight was all he was worried about since I run under 26,000 pounds.
To answer your question you will need a few facts:
1 What is the GVW of the towing vehicle? This info is found on a sticker on the door jamb of the vehicle.
2 What is the weight rating of the front axle?
3 What is the weight rating of the rear axle?
4 What is the weight rating of the trailer axles? Look at the sticker on the front of the trailer.
5 Take the empty trailer hitched to the vehicle you plan on using to a public scale, truck stop, feed store, stone quarry and get an empty weight.
6 Look at the tow vehicle sticker and find the GCVW rating.
7 Subtract the total weight of the 2 pieces from the GCVW rating and this will give you the payload for your set up. If this number is greater then the weight of the tractor you are good to go.
This is my truck and trailer numbers.
I have a trailer that was de-rated by the manufacturer from 15,900 plus pounds to 14,500. The sticker on the trailer states there are 2- 7,000 axles. The truck is rated at 11,400 pounds. The front axle of the truck is rated at 4,800 and the rear at 8,200. My GCWR is there for 11,400 +14,500 = 25,900 pounds. If you add the 4 axles together it is 27,000 and it does not mean a damn thing.
If the front axle of the truck is greater then 4,800 then you get a ticket.
If the rear axle of the truck is greater then 8,200 then you get a ticket.
If the front axle of the trailer is greater then 7,000 then you get a ticket.
If the rear axle of the trailer is greater then 7,000 then you get a ticket.
If the combined total of all four axles is greater then 25,900 you get a ticket.
It is that simple.
The empty weight of my truck and trailer is 15,500.
GCVW of 25,900 - 15500 = 10,400 pay load.
As long as the weight of on each axle is under the rating as stated on the vehicles label your are golden, as long as the weight rating of the tires added together is greater the axle rating. For example I run a dually and the 4 tires on the rear axle are rated at 2680 each giving a total of 10,720 pounds. Far greater then the axle rating of 8,200. The trailer tires are rated at 4080 each, so the combined rating of 8160 is greater then the 7,000 rating.
That is what the DOT will look at as far as weight. I had the same DOT cop pull me over 4 different times trying to bust me and never could. The weight was all he was worried about since I run under 26,000 pounds.
If your tractor is an open station ROPS without tire ballast then you are probably looking at about 6,000 lbs with loader and hog. With tire ballast you will be more like 7,200 or so. I'm guessing that you will need a 24' long deck to load that with correct tongue weight. Those trailers are at least 3,000 lbs empty and can easily get past 4,000 for the heavy duty ones. I'm looking at trailers myself and will probably end up with a 12K or 14K because as you can see a 10K one might not be enough.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Good advice above. I don’t know what your tractor or trailer weighs exactly. I’m assuming it weighs more than mine. Mine, for example, has a bare weight of IIRC around 3200lb which doesn’t sound like much because it isn’t. Add for loader, loaded rear R4’s, additional for grapple (it’s heavier than the standard bucket) if running grapple, and whatever implement is on the back. Now it’s more like 6,000lb +/- depending on what implement is on the back. Add for the 2500lb tandem flatbed with 7,000lb axles and that’s 8,500lb +/- again depending on implements. Transfer some of that to the truck hitch and I would be running too close for my liking on a 7K trailer with a L4701 that’s in actual useable configuration.
I say all that partly because I didn’t have a trailer capacity problem with mine, I had a rigging size problem. Silly me was thinking I have a 3200lb front wheel assist tractor with R4’s so max drawbar would be maybe 2500lb in ideal conditions so the rigging we used with the 9N for tree work should be sufficient. After breaking a couple of ropes and pulling a 1/4” chain in half twice, put some thought into what was going on as it started to become clear it wasn’t just a weak chain link anomaly. Then realized I’m a dummy with a 6,000lb tractor, not a 3200lb tractor. Had to upgrade some of the rigging.
If you’re not sure on true gross weight of the trailer/tractor/truck combo and what axles are carrying what load, the above advice to slowly roll it to a scale and get the real numbers is very good advice. Running beyond the capacity of the weakest part of your rig is quite dangerous to you and others. It’s a bad day when you get a ticket and a shut down order. It’s a worse day when you wreck because you’re rig isn’t set up right.
It’s been a long running disagreement between me and my father. His “old farmer” idea is overload stuff, don’t get wound up about brakes, and drive real slow. My view is put the time and money into getting your rig right with the laws on the books and the laws of physics. The furthest he’s towed a trailer heavier than his 16’ runabout boat is about 20 miles. Furthest I’ve towed our 9,000lb camper was from central NC to Toronto. I’ve also been involved in too many cleanup operations from messes made by guys with the “old farmer” mentality.
From the standpoint of someone who has to clean up the carnage of a improperly set up tow rig, I respectfully encourage you to put a pen to paper (or mouse to spreadsheet) and figure out your rig correctly, then run it across a scale to verify your plan. Then run it to your hearts content when it’s right. If you can’t do that or it turns out to not be cost effective, pay to have it towed rather than damaging property and people.
Whatever you end up doing, hope it works out for you.
I say all that partly because I didn’t have a trailer capacity problem with mine, I had a rigging size problem. Silly me was thinking I have a 3200lb front wheel assist tractor with R4’s so max drawbar would be maybe 2500lb in ideal conditions so the rigging we used with the 9N for tree work should be sufficient. After breaking a couple of ropes and pulling a 1/4” chain in half twice, put some thought into what was going on as it started to become clear it wasn’t just a weak chain link anomaly. Then realized I’m a dummy with a 6,000lb tractor, not a 3200lb tractor. Had to upgrade some of the rigging.
If you’re not sure on true gross weight of the trailer/tractor/truck combo and what axles are carrying what load, the above advice to slowly roll it to a scale and get the real numbers is very good advice. Running beyond the capacity of the weakest part of your rig is quite dangerous to you and others. It’s a bad day when you get a ticket and a shut down order. It’s a worse day when you wreck because you’re rig isn’t set up right.
It’s been a long running disagreement between me and my father. His “old farmer” idea is overload stuff, don’t get wound up about brakes, and drive real slow. My view is put the time and money into getting your rig right with the laws on the books and the laws of physics. The furthest he’s towed a trailer heavier than his 16’ runabout boat is about 20 miles. Furthest I’ve towed our 9,000lb camper was from central NC to Toronto. I’ve also been involved in too many cleanup operations from messes made by guys with the “old farmer” mentality.
From the standpoint of someone who has to clean up the carnage of a improperly set up tow rig, I respectfully encourage you to put a pen to paper (or mouse to spreadsheet) and figure out your rig correctly, then run it across a scale to verify your plan. Then run it to your hearts content when it’s right. If you can’t do that or it turns out to not be cost effective, pay to have it towed rather than damaging property and people.
Whatever you end up doing, hope it works out for you.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
had a quik look at tractordata specs..
bare tractor is 4200#
7000# trailer is maybe 1500# (they vary a LOT, so check the specs !)
just the BARE tractor would be fine......
adding loader and hog will definitely overmax any '7000#' trailer
it boils down to a 'numbers game', the get REAL weights then see what trailer you NEED for SAFE trailering....
sure, you can haul an overmaxxed trailer a little distance, with GREAT tires,full air,flat paved roads, no traffic, sunny weather.... BUT it's a huge risk.
bare tractor is 4200#
7000# trailer is maybe 1500# (they vary a LOT, so check the specs !)
just the BARE tractor would be fine......
adding loader and hog will definitely overmax any '7000#' trailer
it boils down to a 'numbers game', the get REAL weights then see what trailer you NEED for SAFE trailering....
sure, you can haul an overmaxxed trailer a little distance, with GREAT tires,full air,flat paved roads, no traffic, sunny weather.... BUT it's a huge risk.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Surely someone will come along soon, to state that trailers over 10,000 lbs. GVW cannot be towed without a CDL.
I am of the opinion that this limitation ONLY applies to trailers towed for commercial use!
I use my personal use 15K registered equipment trailer for my personal use Kubota L48 TLB. (2-7,000K axles, 1,000 ton tongue)
The L48 weight is 8,000 lbs, and trailer weight is 3,500 lbs.
Is this legal?
I think so!
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I think each state is a little different but I believe you are correct about it being for commercial use. In Ohio you don't need a CDL for a 30,000 lb RV with air brakes so trailers probably fall under the same "personal use" rule.
After looking it up I remember now that there is a federal law requiring a class A CDL for trailers over 10K lbs IF your total combined gross vehicle weight rating is over 26K lbs. I should check all my axle weights and such on my truck before buying a trailer. It is 10K GVW but that is only part of the story.
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
That is right. Although Georgia is stopping on secondary roads, they are very active on the interstates. If you are towing anything (except a small trailer under 14’ ) with a 3/4 ton truck or above, you will likely be stopped and get a full inspection.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Aside from the Federal referenced by others, state laws vary quite a bit. For instance, NC differentiates between “property hauling” vehicles and recreational vehicles. So in NC I can tow my 9,000lb camper legally with a 6,000lb (adding a bit for fuel and passengers) pickup with a standard Class C driver license and a standard license plate. I could also tow a boat (if I had one) on the standard tag. However, if I’m towing my little 5x8 enclosed trailer that makes it a “property hauling” vehicle and my driver license is still OK but my gross combined weight is limited to 4,000lb by the tag on the truck. The truck weighs more than that so the only way to make it legal if I’m stopped is to leave the trailer on the side of the road at which point the pickup is no longer a “property hauling” vehicle. Makes little sense but that’s the law here. Commercial v personal use makes no difference.
So I ran a 8000lb tag on the truck to cover the 5x8 until I got the 14k equipment trailer and kicked the license up to 16k to cover the truck and 10k of trailer/cargo. The trailer will carry more than that but I’m never hauling more than that so no need to license for more capacity than I’ll use.
A visit to a local DMV to make sure you’re not running afoul of any regs is usually time well spent with a new rig.
Back in the day DMV Enforcement only messed with the big boys. For the past several years they’ve been on the little guys hauling car haulers and equipment behind pickups. I wouldn’t leave the driveway here without at least thinking my rig would pass a side of the road inspection.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
That works for me!
I have no plans to tow anything to, from, or within, GA.
mcmxi
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25TLB
Not me! I tow my MX6000 with the FEL and Land Pride RCR1884 attached on a 22ft 14,000lb rated trailer. Next year my plan is to back the tractor onto the trailer and rest the loader on the raised ramps, or make up something to rest the loader on. I added a Curt weight distribution hitch set up to the truck and trailer after towing the MX to my friend's place.
I don't think you'd have enough capacity to put your set up on a trailer rated for 7,000lb when you include the weight of the trailer.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
A weight distribution hitch (my Equal-i-zer brand) makes a huge difference in towing safety!
On my 15K trailer, I... "don't leave home without it".
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
Yeah. It’s a bad feeling to see the blue lights come up behind you and realize it’s the DOT Enforcement SUV. You know you are going to be there for a while for an inspection if the trailer doesn’t have an inspection sticker on it.
With my last truck, they even checked the fill neck for signs of red dye to see if I was using non taxed (farm) fuel. They were going to try to pull a sample but the Ram trucks have the block in the neck to prevent fuel siphoning by thieves.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
In Ontario a CVOR is required unless there is a personal use exemption. The truck must be under 6,500kg (14,300 lbs) manufacturer's rated GVRW, have the original box and be used for personal use (means it can't be hauling equipment that is normally used for commercial purposes, even if you claim it is for personal use). Trailers used for commercial purposes must also have an inspection sticker.
If the gross weight of the trailer exceeds 4,600kg (10,120lbs) then a class A truck driver's license is also required.
If the gross weight of the trailer exceeds 4,600kg (10,120lbs) then a class A truck driver's license is also required.