3 point hitch stabilizers adjustment.

Foxrunfarms

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I was brushing up on the owners manual tonight after clearing about 14 inches of snow this past weekend and -30 windchills and wanted to make sure I'm checking over and running the tractor correctly in this extreme weather.

I looking at the 3 point hitch stabilizers and this is how they were set up from the dealer with a quick hitch and tiller on .
20240116_195338.jpg

They're in the middle in the double holes so there's play.

In the owners manual it states for blades or earth moving equipment to have them tigh and that's it. Using the box blade to push snow sometimes I figured I want them tight or some play would cause flexing, and flexing turns into bending.
20240116_200345.jpg

I moved the pins up to the 2nd to the last holes. There is 0 play in them now, I'm assuming this is correct? When I try to go down further I can't have both pins equally in the same number of holes.

Before I move more snow or have regrets of not having some play in it I wanted to make sure this was correct or se where you lock yours in.

Thank you.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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A little play in the three point especially doing snow is a good thing not a bad thing.
Your more likely to do damage with them tight than with it moving.
I don't like the three point too tight.
 
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NCL4701

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Leave some play in it when you can. Sometimes you can. Sometimes you can’t. Just have to think a little about what’s best for what you’re doing.

Depending on what I’m doing with boxblade or backblade sometimes I need to lock it down because I need my straight lines to be STRAIGHT without little wiggles, and need the blade to be exactly where I put it, period. With the stump grinder, I can only imagine it jumping around like a cat stuffed in a feed bag if it wasn’t locked down.

But for a lot of functions those slot positions give some grace if you get a little too close to a fixed object, even those that are invisible due to being underground. They can save you on downtime and repairs. The tiller you mentioned is a good example: hit something unexpected under ground and it can jump a little sideways before getting in a bind and bending or busting something. I always have mine in the slots for brush hogging.
 
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Foxrunfarms

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Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
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A little play in the three point especially doing snow is a good thing not a bad thing.
Your more likely to do damage with them tight than with it moving.
I don't like the three point too tight.
Thanks. It makes sense to have a little play/leeway. In the original spots it was maybe a 1/2inch which would gives it some leeway vs 6 inches of play where it bangs around. After reading the manual and your input it seems like a happy medium decision.

Thank you.
 

beckmurph

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Be careful pushing with the rear blade.
3pt hitch is designed for pulling, not pushing.
 
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Foxrunfarms

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Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
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Leave some play in it when you can. Sometimes you can. Sometimes you can’t. Just have to think a little about what’s best for what you’re doing.

Depending on what I’m doing with boxblade or backblade sometimes I need to lock it down because I need my straight lines to be STRAIGHT without little wiggles, and need the blade to be exactly where I put it, period. With the stump grinder, I can only imagine it jumping around like a cat stuffed in a feed bag if it wasn’t locked down.

But for a lot of functions those slot positions give some grace if you get a little too close to a fixed object, even those that are invisible due to being underground. They can save you on downtime and repairs. The tiller you mentioned is a good example: hit something unexpected under ground and it can jump a little sideways before getting in a bind and bending or busting something. I always have mine in the slots for brush hogging.
Thank you. I can understand now it's kind of a happy medium/best for the task. I was just following the manual lol. In the middle spots/original spot there was like 1/2 inch of play but never banged around and gave me nice straight paths. I understand now it's better to have some forgiveness in the 3 point vs no where for the force to go.

Thanks again.
 
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Foxrunfarms

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Be careful pushing with the rear blade.
3pt hitch is designed for pulling, not pushing.
Thank you. I agree with you on that, and read different forms and watched different videos about thoughts of doing it. I'll be 100% honest I don't even like using the loader to backdrag or push long distances. It's a LOADER FOR LOADING THATS THE FUNCTION OF IT was brought up in many forums and videos. I've been playing around seeing what I like more/works best for snow the rear blade or box blade . Many advantages and disadvantages to each. I don't feel comfortable pushing backwards with a rear blade even though they can flip to do that. It seems like too many weak points on the blade all the way up to the 3 point. I feel confident using the box blade to push backwards a few feet. It's more solid, and actually designed to do that. Either way there is some stress on the 3 point. On other forums or videos the push pull got brought up a lot too. 3 point blowers were mentioned they're designed to be pushed backwards but you're also creeping into the snow and it's eating it. You're not trying to move/force snow or dirt in a different area. I think like anything go slow, use caution, and common sense and you should be okay, but sometimes we still lose.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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be sure to check the 'play' at both UP as well as DOWN. Sometimes the 'freeplay' changes depending on what implement and what height the 3PH is. Big thing is to adjust so implement doesn't HIT the tires when it swings......
 
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NCL4701

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I’m not arguing with anyone, just honestly curious about the 3 point push/pull thing. Pre-Kubota (about 35 years worth) I moved I don’t know how many yards of dirt with this thing. Take off the chain and wood extension that creates a carry all and you’re left with a pond scoop; a poor man’s trip bucket loader for the 3 point. It will cut going forward or backward depending how you hitch it up. And it’s not unique. Pond scoops are still sold.
IMG_9639.jpeg

Anyway, I’ve spent hours upon hours absolutely flogging this thing cutting in reverse to cut down creek banks, level areas for bee hive stands, and all manner of stuff where a small dozer would have been highly preferable. I have never seen or heard of anyone damaging a 3 point by pushing with it, but my experience is much less than the aggregate experience of this group.

So the question: Has anyone ever damaged a 3 point pushing with it?

I don’t mean WOT, fast as it will go, slamming into an immovable giant stump. The kind of impact that would bust something regardless direction of travel is not the subject of the query.

I mean using it, even hard use, pushing something with the 3 point and damage to the 3 point resulted.

?
 
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FOXHAVEN

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I was brushing up on the owners manual tonight after clearing about 14 inches of snow this past weekend and -30 windchills and wanted to make sure I'm checking over and running the tractor correctly in this extreme weather.

I looking at the 3 point hitch stabilizers and this is how they were set up from the dealer with a quick hitch and tiller on .
View attachment 120401
They're in the middle in the double holes so there's play.

In the owners manual it states for blades or earth moving equipment to have them tigh and that's it. Using the box blade to push snow sometimes I figured I want them tight or some play would cause flexing, and flexing turns into bending.
View attachment 120402
I moved the pins up to the 2nd to the last holes. There is 0 play in them now, I'm assuming this is correct? When I try to go down further I can't have both pins equally in the same number of holes.

Before I move more snow or have regrets of not having some play in it I wanted to make sure this was correct or se where you lock yours in.

Thank you.
My adjustable stabilizers have been one of the best improvements I've made. My two cents on the subject if they are worth that is keep in mind that the geometry is not perfect on these setups. It is important to observe a full lift and drop before you go to work looking and listening for binding. No sense stressing out your hitch joints more than necessary.
 
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GrizBota

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I’m not arguing with anyone, just honestly curious about the 3 point push/pull thing. Pre-Kubota (about 35 years worth) I moved I don’t know how many yards of dirt with this thing. Take off the chain and wood extension that creates a carry all and you’re left with a pond scoop; a poor man’s trip bucket loader for the 3 point. It will cut going forward or backward depending how you hitch it up. And it’s not unique. Pond scoops are still sold.
View attachment 120510
Anyway, I’ve spent hours upon hours absolutely flogging this thing cutting in reverse to cut down creek banks, level areas for bee hive stands, and all manner of stuff where a small dozer would have been highly preferable. I have never seen or heard of anyone damaging a 3 point by pushing with it, but my experience is much less than the aggregate experience of this group.

So the question: Has anyone ever damaged a 3 point pushing with it?

I don’t mean WOT, fast as it will go, slamming into an immovable giant stump. The kind of impact that would bust something regardless direction of travel is not the subject of the query.

I mean using it, even hard use, pushing something with the 3 point and damage to the 3 point resulted.

?
A member here provided a real good reminder about three points and having no down force recently. It was about towing with the three point by using a draw bar between the two lifting arm eyes (or any of the commercially available implements that do the same thing). In that configuration, if a loaded trailer were to push on the three point (such as going down a slope and braking with the tractor), the trailer could push the three point up, potentially causing unanticipated load shift on the tractor, resulting in a safety concern.

I could sort of see a similar (less severe) situation with pushing a three point blade in reverse into a frozen pile and having the blade climb the pile rather that cut lower as was intended. I could even see where that might be beneficial, if it were anticipated.

As to damaging the three point merely by going in reverse and having the anticipated behavior of the implement occurring, I don’t see that as a significant concern. I’ve never damaged doing that or heard of it myself.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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true most 3PH setups don't have down pressure, but some do. Friend's old Russian Belarus does. Saw that when he pulled rear tire off to fix a flat.
I've put days of going in reverse pushing snow,and they sell a LOT of rear mounted snowblowers,don't here of any 3PH 'booboos'.