2004 Grand L5030 will not start
- Thread starter Jayhawk238
- Start date
I don't see any dark spots, other than the blue paint pen marks ...
If you can't get to the backside of those to test, just remove one at a time, and check for power where they plug in, that will tell you if you have power to the fuse block, if you don't, then you have probably either a mouse problem, or a chaffing/pinched/cut wire situation, but either could also blow a fuse ...
If you have a multimeter ... Set it to check continuity and test like shown holding both leads together, then between both blades/pins of the removed fuse, if you have a solid ".000 like this, your fuse is good, it could show a little resistance like .005 and still be good.
But if it shows 1.0 like this, when both leads are separate, then fuse is not good.
If you can't get to the backside of those to test, just remove one at a time, and check for power where they plug in, that will tell you if you have power to the fuse block, if you don't, then you have probably either a mouse problem, or a chaffing/pinched/cut wire situation, but either could also blow a fuse ...
If you have a multimeter ... Set it to check continuity and test like shown holding both leads together, then between both blades/pins of the removed fuse, if you have a solid ".000 like this, your fuse is good, it could show a little resistance like .005 and still be good.
But if it shows 1.0 like this, when both leads are separate, then fuse is not good.
I checked today and all 4 slow blow fuses are good. I pulled them out and using a voltmeter they showed "0". I also used a test light and pierced all 4 wires to the fuse box and they all showed power to them. So I can scratch them off as my problem. In the morning I am going to check the five wires on the key switch for voltage. I checked them with the test light and got power to all but not sure how many volts. After that the only other to do is to start bypassing safety switches to see if one of them is the problem.
There's also a block with smaller fuses, probably under the dash. Check them also.
Can you post the wiring diagram and maybe also the diagram of the engine start diagram?
Sorry for the delay. will try to get the diagram upload today. The fuses below the dash were the first ones I checked and they were fine..
Just wanted you to know that I have not posted anything lately because my mutimeter blew the 10Amp fuse. The order I placed for new ones finally arrived so I can now get back to testing circuits.
Shot out of left field here, push and hold back the PTO lever. Maybe even wiggle it some. We have a L5030 rops at work that had to be started that way, I have since readjusted the two switches on the PTO lever.
I did not bypass.
Under the PTO lever cover, there are 2 micro switches. I simply bent the tabs a bit to make contact with lever. One switch is in the start circuit, other tells computer/display to show PTO speed. That is the reason I dug into it, our turf guy couldn’t monitor his spreader speed.
I went to test the seat safety switch but not sure how to test this type of switch with jumper wire(s). Anyone know how?
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Here you go, Wolfman. The red wires go to the Female connector end.
Attachments
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Thank you, Wolfman! Will test Friday have to go to town today.