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When I use the snowblower on my BX22 I would take the loader off, and then take the post with the valve on it off of the loader and remount it to the tractor. There are quick connects between the valve and the loader. I then hook my snowblower lift cylinder and chute rotate to the valve.

What the heck is the idea behind the spring on the tail wheel? I use the tail wheel on my blade to limit the cut or spread and take the undulating action out. That spring in there looks worse than useless.

This might be good project for a guy with some mechanical ability and wanting a project. When you mention having it diagnosed at a shop? BIG red flag. That could wind up being a very expensive tractor. It would have to be about free for me to consider it and I would do the work myself.

I have the same tractor and that is not normal operation. I leave my draft control all the way forward and never mess with it, as nothing I do needs its use. I would guess the draft control is out of adjustment. I downloaded the WSM online somewhere, don't remember where but it is available...

If you look up underneath the tractor, there are hardline connectors for those and on my BX22 those are color coded with tape. The valve stays with the loader tower on my BX but has quick connects on the lines to the cylinders also. When I have the snowblower on the front I disconnect those...

I would check the voltage with the wire connected. That will provide a more accurate voltage with the load on it. I have seen instances where the connection is so poor that it would show voltage with no load, but put a load on it and the voltage drops or disappears.

Why wouldn't you? It's just one quick coupling to hook up and you need to cap the other too. Takes 30 seconds to do it. Guess I should read a little closer. "Hoses messed up"

What voltage do you have on the small wire on the starter solenoid with the key in the start position? Low voltage there due to resistance through the safety switches is a common problem. Below 10.5 or 11 volts there and the solenoid won't pull in. If you have no volts there you have a safety...

I know my BX22 would run with the fuel pump fuse blown. The dealer pinched a wire when they did the fuel gauge fix under warrantee. I found the pinched wire at a rear taillight and the same fuse for the taillights runs the fuel pump. Even though it would run with no fuel pump, no way could you...

The key on for 10 seconds is to let the fuel pump push the air out. Do you hear the fuel pump clicking with the key in the "run" position? If not there is a fuse for it. I would let the pump run longer and try again. Mine starts quicker if I use the glow plugs for 5 seconds even in warm weather.

I figure a heated shop at say 45 degrees should be easier on the battery than outside at the -25 we saw this past winter. It probably sees a maximum of 85 in the summer. True, I don't know how long that battery set on a shelf before it went into the new tractor and was shipped to me. It was put...

My M7060 which was ordered and received 10/2018 has already needed a battery. This one was a no name too. Always stored in the heated shop and has had the battery maintainer rotated around to it every 3 months or so. Got in it to unload hay and it was completely dead. Would not take a charge...

We have Purvis subsidiary supplier here that is just 4 or 5 blocks from the shop that we use for convenience only that is double the price of others. Our Parker store is between those in prices but not conveniently located but I can get some pretty oddball fittings there that others don't...

Applied Industrial Technologies. We do a fair amount of business with them so we probably get discounts you may not get. Can't hurt to try.

Actually I can go through a local Gates supplier and they beat Discounts prices but these usually take over a week to get as they are made up in Craig, CO. I replaced about 300' of hoses at work on a machine and they were about 30% cheaper than Discount. That being said, for my own use I...

Discounthydraulichose.com and hoseandfitting.com can both make hoses with the correct 90 degree ends if you want to stay more OEM style. They will cost more. A local hose supplier is a possibility too.

Thats kind of surprising that the rod would rust in the bore. I'd of thought that it should have had a good oil film on it. Hopefully you can get it freed up without too much trouble. I suppose NC humidity probably had something to do with it. Probably wouldn't happen here in the desert of WY.

Looks like no one has had this issue before. I haven't either, but if the lever won't move I'd be chasing the linkage and see why. May have take it apart to free it up. The clutch is hydraulic so all the linkage will be doing is working a hydraulic valve.

That turned out to be quick and easy. Glad to have helped.