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Make sure the pins are removed, then elevate the deck off the ground. Next, put a block of wood over the top of the post and go to town with your favorite hammer. Using something like PB Blaster first isn't a bad idea either. Im guessing after two to three good whacks, they will come off fairly...

They make patches for the inside of the tire for holes of that size, but I've never used them and can't speak to how well they work. I would also be concerned that the location of the patch would be suseptible to future punctures. As @GreensvilleJay stated, getting it into your shop for...

Thank you for taking the time to look into this and I will take your advice and leave it alone. I was aware that cars and trucks have gotten infinitely more complicated over the past few decades, but I didn't realize that compact tractors were becoming this complicated as well.

Don't necessarily need to, but I would prefer that they remained solid. In the winter I plow my driveway where there is a 55mph country road at the end of. I always use both the hazards and the beacon that I added when working at night, but I am all about being as visable as possible after dark...

A pretty solid anti-gel treatment review from Project Farm.

For those with an LX2610 (or B2650 or LX2620), when you turn on the hazards, do both your tail lights and lollipop lights flash? Both of mine flash and I'm wondering if that is correct. If not, any ideas on how to fix this so only the lollipop lights flash?

I second this recommendation.

I was guilty of wanting to keep my tractor perfect when new also. After the first couple of scratches, the rest doesn't bother you as much and mine is definitely not kept as clean as it once was. I am still OCD about the appearance of my truck though...

Try some rubbing alcohol on a microfiber towel and see if that gets the lettering back to looking normal.

Can't speak to the lettering, but the few times I have spilled diesel on the hood, all it does is make a waxy mess that attracts dirt once it dries. It can be easily removed with a warm damp cloth.

Finished products look good though. I'm pretty sure we've all had a moment or two like this during our lives.

I think the main thing is pour the fuel slowly and use both your eyes and your ears. As the tank is nearing full, you will hear an audible change. At that point just watch the level until it gets to the bottom of the filler neck then screw the cap back on. Additionally, I fill mine while...

I am definitely not an expert on that model (and welcome others to chime in), but I would start with checking for either a loose or corroded ground connection. I would also ensure that all of the starter electrical connections are both secure and not corroded.

I have a diesel transfer pump that connects to the tractors battery. It seemed like a good choice for when you are in an area with no power available. 12v diesel transfer pump

I still blame the goats. Those damn things will chew on anything.

I'm going to pass on your offer, but good luck! Also, there are likely others on here who can assist with the connector and pins that you need, but that knowledge is beyond my skill set.

I'm fairly certain that you are going to need a new sensor as well, but from left to right, I have black, purple then blue.

I believe it's the harness for the revolution (crankshaft) sensor (1G171-59660). Unfortunately, it appears there is only one harness for the entire tractor so you will either need to make your own or clip one from a tractor graveyard. B2650's (and possibly others) likey also use the same...

I'll take a look when I get home and see if I can find the part #'s for you. In the meantime, here is somewhere to start. https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/kubota/lx2610hsd/electrical-system/b50101-electrical-wiring

It loosens up a bit over time, but I still drop mine from about 4" above where it seats and it closes fine every time.