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Looks to be the gasket between the two housings. How much mechanical skill do you have? Look at some parts diagrams and download the service manual to get an idea of what needs to be removed. It wouldn’t be gear oil and the rear end is shared with the transmission/hydraulic fluid. Clean it off...

Any update on this? I’ll ad more information. Yesterday I had a log caught and crushed the front side of the skid plate and fuel tank from underneath on my M6040. You can remove the fuel tank WITHOUT removing the tire OR fender. Took longer to drain the tank than to actually remove it. Good...

Definitely a strange issue. Do you have KTAC? You might need it if you have any ponds that you mow around.…

Really it’s more likely just pressure/vacuum in the dipstick tube. My tractor does the same thing with the hydraulic dip stick. My boat motor also does the same thing. Always pull, clean then reinstall to check proper level.

Should be similar to my M6040. Remove what they call the bonnet first. Two screws at the bottom towards the seat and one screw on each side with the hood open. The gauge cluster is easily removed after that.

Was you able to download the service manual and look at the wiring diagram? I may have missed something but what part are you calling the controller/ECM? These don’t have a computer. Really the only electronics is the fuel cut off solenoid. Edit. I see it now on Messicks diagrams.

Adding to the drain pan idea. The storage tote I used was able to slide under the tractor with enough clearance to access the drain plugs. After installing the drain plugs and filling the tractor with fluid I just moved the tractor. So no need to try and move the tote full of fluid.

And for only $800 difference to go new. New warranty if needed and no rust. And better resale if/when you upgrade. Much easier to sell a like new trailer than one 20 years old for $500 less than a new one cost.

I’ll also add I’ve followed your threads about getting this tractor. I would at least get new drain plug gaskets for every drain plug you plan on servicing if not new drain plugs also depending on their condition. IE if they are rounded or damaged from using the wrong size socket on them.

When I changed the transmission fluid in my M (15 gallons) I used a heavy duty storage tote. I use the $12 harbor freight battery pump to pump it into 5 gallon buckets to recycle. I use the empty hydro fluid buckets with lids and pour spouts. I would pass on the drain valve for this situation...

Like new Dewalt DCF897 20V 3/4 impact. Tool only $300 OBO Located in Mobile AL. Shipping available

Have you downloaded a service manual for your model? Or at least the owners manual? They are useful in many ways even just the diagrams. Also Messicks has good diagrams to show parts layouts. If you can see fuel in the tank I doubt you ran it dry. I ran mine almost out of fuel when I added this...

I’ll get a picture of the filter I added to my ZD this evening. Do the fuel tanks look clean? Have algae in them? I also replaced the tank selector with a Tee. I still need to add check valves to them. If I park it overnight on an incline the fuel level will equalize and the lower tank will...

Don’t fix the cause of the issue just pull the radiator every time it plugs up since you was able to do that before.

I’ve installed aluminum window screen on top of the factory screen. Have to pull it out and clean it more often but the debris doesn’t get into the radiator. You’re not doing it any favors by not having at least the factory screen in place.

Mine doesn’t have a fitting on the jack and it was also difficult to move when I got it. I just sprayed the threads with Kroil and lifted it up a few times. I spray it every time I grease everything else or when I change blades.

Sorry for your loss. There was a M7040 Cab and loader with 1,800 hours listed last week in south Alabama for $30k. This is at a dealership.

No not completely. Just drain just below the sight glass. Or if you’re comfortable have a drain pan ready and remove the old sight glass and install the new one.

More details will help like Wolfman suggested. My suggestion assumes that when hot it’s a no crank situation.