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this .... ORL orange/black should probably be ORB orang/black , to be consistent with B being black....

simply install a form B (normally closed) fuel valve in the fuel line. No power to it, NO fuel to Injpump, engine stops running.

YES, rear jacks are a must ! Also backup lights. SIMPLE with 7 wire hookups.2 per side(high and low)

You'll need one with two 3500# axles, best of brakes on BOTH axles. By 'box' do you mean enclosed' ?

This post is a great example as to why it's IMPORTANT to take 'before' pictures when disassembling ANYTHING and taking the time to layout the 'bits and pieces' on a clean,tidy work table. While the pump isn't a complicated device, it does need verything put back where it came from. Happily it...

jumper whatever wire has +12 from battery to the 'start' wire.....starter should spin. If not, follow the 'start' wire and see where it goes ? I suspect there's some 'box' to decide that all the safety switches are in their correct place, making it more 'fun' to trouble shoot. test.... jumper...

well it's only a 4 pronged switch, so not complicated. Hopefully you have the wiring diagram. It can't be too complicated.

both switches might be made in China(seems 'everything' is...), so roll the dice on the $23 version. If buying through Amazon and 23 doesn't work, send it back.....returns are free.

Well maybe 'they' can't but..... from a 'computer' viewpoint.....assuming the CANbus port is available, it should be possible to read/write the 'hours' register in the EEPROM area of the onboard microcomputer.

I had a cheater stick on my BX23S, Use it press forward pedal. if you time it just right , engine doesn't die. Lost the stick in the bush ,so back to using BH. It's a whole lot easier WHEN you lift the bucket first though........

easy solution... when wife leaves give her the phone ! That way SHE can answer all those 'important' calls while you're busy cutting grass or other 'tractoring'. After you tell her that, post which hospital you're in so I can send some flowers....

hmm, one reason.. you'd be driving over the free cut clippings and bet that'd make a mess ?? It'd also cover the underbelly of the tractor and HST.

On a similar PITA 'project', I've had to take a NEW cold chisel and 2#H and 'cut' 1/3rd of an arc of the inner race off then the rest came off. Be sure to SECURE the unit very ,very well ! Make good '1st strikes' and 10-15 blows later it'll come off.

If you use a blade, make one light full pass, then another ,then another. shallow controlled cuts NOT one deep 'in a hurry' cut. You'll be able to cut juuuuust enough to not even nick the paint. To put the new ones one, WD-40(lots), line up, push hard, be sure alignment is correct cause 8-9...

yeesh, what's wrong with cut ,stack, burn 2 years later method ? re: 'kiln dried firewood' HAS to be expensive to buy

'best way' ? Put sign up 'free firewood logs'. they'll all be gone in a day and YOU won't have to haul them and burn them.

wear a welding glove, then use heatgun to get the grip 'soft'(you'll know), then pull them off I use the heatgun to get the plastic 'caps' off wheels on riding mowers.

PURRfect....!!!!! I gotta rememeber that one

have to ask. WHY in the plastic case ?

so recap.... it runs fine on the LEFT tank and lousy on the RIGHT tank ????? I looked at parts finder, so if true, then you have 'junk' in the RIGHT tank. remove, inspect,clean, confirm, reinstall. if it still runs lousy on the right, problem must be the selector valve.