Valve stem damage using washer fluid as ballast

[E. B. Farmer]

Wanting to diy ballast fluid on bx23s… do I need to replace rubber valve stem with brass fitting? Will washer fluid damage valve?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Nope, there is brass inside that rubber valve stem so changing it is a waste of time and money.

 

[Shawn T. W]

Four years on washer fluid in mine, no problems ...

 

[E. B. Farmer]

Thank’s for getting back…Seems like I get on a path forward and someone throws something else I need to buy.

 

[re54drider]

• Air / Liquid stems are designed specifically to be used with liquid ballast and are an industry standard for any liquid ballast. They usually have a 2-piece construction which allows the upper half (the valve core housing), to be removed allowing access to the larger bore (the lower half), for faster and easier fluid installation and evacuation.

I have these on my 2 loaded rear tires.

 

[torch]

• Air / Liquid stems are designed specifically to be used with liquid ballast and are an industry standard for any liquid ballast. They usually have a 2-piece construction which allows the upper half (the valve core housing), to be removed allowing access to the larger bore (the lower half), for faster and easier fluid installation and evacuation.

I have these on my 2 loaded rear tires.

Well THAT would have been nice to know 10 years ago! <lol>

I pumped mine via the standard stem after removing the core. I did buy a fill adapter with an air bleed button. Basically, one locates the stem above the desired fill line, pumps in some WW fluid (or other fluid of choice), shut off the pump, press the bleed button until all pressure is released then start the pump again. Rinse and repeat until desired level is reached.

It took a while, but only needs repeating when tires are changed. Probably less time than dismounting tires to install the above stem in the rims. But yeah, if you are changing tires anyway those stems look like a great idea.

Question: what size hole in the rim is required? Do those need a larger hole?

 

[E. B. Farmer]

• Air / Liquid stems are designed specifically to be used with liquid ballast and are an industry standard for any liquid ballast. They usually have a 2-piece construction which allows the upper half (the valve core housing), to be removed allowing access to the larger bore (the lower half), for faster and easier fluid installation and evacuation.

I have these on my 2 loaded rear tires.

Well THAT would have been nice to know 10 years ago! <lol>

I pumped mine via the standard stem after removing the core. I did buy a fill adapter with an air bleed button. Basically, one locates the stem above the desired fill line, pumps in some WW fluid (or other fluid of choice), shut off the pump, press the bleed button until all pressure is released then start the pump again. Rinse and repeat until desired level is reached.

It took a while, but only needs repeating when tires are changed. Probably less time than dismounting tires to install the above stem in the rims. But yeah, if you are changing tires anyway those stems look like a great idea.

Question: what size hole in the rim is required? Do those need a larger hole?

Yes…do I need these? I have standard rubber OEM stems. Can they be used to liquid fill or do I need the others? TIA

 

[torch]

The tires are rubber too. So long as the liquid is compatible with the tires, the stems should be fine. Even metal stems use rubber sealing washers at the rim...

What you do need is one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Water-Adaptor-Liquid-Fill-Tires/dp/B01N311XNI

And some sort of a pump. I used a small submersible with a garden hose discharge in a 5 gallon bucket.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes…do I need these? I have standard rubber OEM stems. Can they be used to liquid fill or do I need the others? TIA

You don't need or want the 2 piece valve stems., as most would require you to drill a bigger hole in the rim.
Yes they are faster to fill liquid into rims, but you have a BX not a 747 BIG BUD.

 

[b454rat]

I used water in my old W/H up to couple years ago. Now they are being used again for the rims I made for my mini truck. Works just fine.

 

[Kennyd4110]

I've heard of RimGaurd slowly damaging rubber stems to the point of a very messy failure, but WWF should be no issue.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, pretty sure the manual says to NOT have 'ballast' when you have the backhoe on........
you might want to read up on that,my manual's in the back of the seat so can't check.

 

[Henro]

hmm, pretty sure the manual says to NOT have 'ballast' when you have the backhoe on........
you might want to read up on that,my manual's in the back of the seat so can't check.

I’m pretty sure it’s a very rare bird that follows the “no ballast with backhoe” statement. I especially like the reported addition in some manuals saying “remove tire ballast before installing backhoe.”

Now about 24 years here with windshield washer fluid in my rear R4 tires on the B 2910 with no issues. Original valve stems still there.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Interesting………….My manual is silent on using ballast and a back hoe, however: It does specifically say to "remove the ballast when not needed”….




Well, I gotta go guys….I have to drain my tires………..

 

[torch]

The "no ballast with backhoe" recommendation makes sense. Not so much from a machine damage perspective as from a soil pressure perspective.

Normal backhoe setup transfers and concentrates the tractor's weight from the wheels to the outriggers and the outriggers are closer to the edge of the excavation -- right were you DON'T want pressure. So the less weight, the less likelihood of triggering a wall collapse.

Obviously there are a lot of other factors that enter into the equation; sandy soils are less stable than clay, sloping walls are more stable than vertical walls, ends walls more stable than the sides, shallow trenches more stable than deep, etc. etc. But very few farmers with tractors moonlight as soil engineers. I'm trained in trench rescue and so probably have a heightened awareness above the average TLB owner and I know just enough to know I don't know enough.

What one person can get away with in their soil does not necessarily translate to what another person will experience in their specific circumstances. So if eliminating ballast reduces the overall risk, the lawyers will like to see the manual specify "No Ballast".

If you're digging a 24" deep ditch with your little BX, it's probably not a big deal. If you are digging out a new basement with your M, then you might want to pay heed. But that's just my 2¢.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Interesting………….My manual is silent on using ballast and a back hoe, however: It does specifically say to "remove the ballast when not needed”….

View attachment 173161


Well, I gotta go guys….I have to drain my tires………..

I'm pretty sure the no ballast with a BH is a BX and maybe a B thing, they didn't want the owners outdoing the limits of the parts.
Your L is a completely different setup.