Its almost that time for Spring mow!

[Starman2112]

The grass is already growing, time to oil up the Kuboda and get ready for spring mowing. My field like usual will be a little insane!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Someone has been playing with the magic mushrooms and AI a little too much.

 

[DONLI]

I DO NOT think AI should be allowed on any forum that is trying to be helpfull in giving any excellent info to its members.
I can only see it as none productive!
I can only say that if Isee too much of it I will drop out of trying to help people looking for info or trying to find info that I need to answer my inquirys and questions!
Thank you everyone who has given answers and help!
just my 2c.

Don

 

[Starman2112]

Wow, the forums po-po are out in FORCE. Dude... humor... fun... people have different opinions. I sure wish I could force my opinions on a group like this with draconian demands. We all know how most people feel about others "opinions" so therefor you have mine. RIP a fun thread.

 

[DONLI]

Wow, the forums po-po are out in FORCE. Dude... humor... fun... people have different opinions. I sure wish I could force my opinions on a group like this with draconian demands. We all know how most people feel about others "opinions" so therefor you have mine. RIP a fun thread.

I DID NOT FORCE MY OPINIONS ON ANYBODY!!!
i JUST STATED MY OPINION!!

DON

 

[jimh406]

It depends on how AI is used whether it's good or not for forums.

I had a question though. How do you know if it's too early to mow or not? This is part of the answer that AI produced (grok).

Key Signs It's Too Early (Don't Mow Yet)

• Grass height is under about 3 inches: The best rule from Utah experts and general lawn care pros is to wait until the grass reaches 3–4 inches tall before the first cut of the season. This means the roots have strengthened enough after winter, and the blades are actively growing. If it's still short and sparse (common in March or early April here), hold off—it's not ready.
• No consistent new growth: Look for fresh green blades pushing up steadily. If the lawn looks mostly brown/dormant or only has patchy, slow greening, it's too early. Cool-season grasses wake up when soil temperatures hit around 50–55°F consistently (air temps often in the 60s°F daytime).
• Soil is still frozen, saturated, or muddy: Walking on it leaves deep footprints, or there's lingering snow/standing water from melt. Mowing compacts soil and tears roots in these conditions.
• Recent heavy frost risk or very cold nights: If overnight lows are still dipping into the 20s–30s°F regularly, new growth can get nipped—better to wait for more stable spring weather.

 

[Ping]

Key Signs It's Too Early (Don't Mow Yet)
#5) You still have 12" of snow on the yard!

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

The grass is already growing, time to oil up the Kuboda and get ready for spring mowing. My field like usual will be a little insane!

View attachment 169005

I didn't know it was spring in Seattle. What have you planted that makes up the pretty pasture?

 

[Starman2112]

I didn't know it was spring in Seattle. What do you have planted that makes up the pretty pasture?

Im not in seattle, but my vpn is

Thats a pic from mowing in spring of 23.

But, this year my real lawn hasnt stopped growing and ive mowed twice (2 acres of fine lawn on my kubota z421 with its new light mud tures) in december alone (in the pnw)

 

[BAP]

Im not in seattle, but my vpn is

Thats a pic from mowing in spring of 23.

But, this year my real lawn hasnt stopped growing and ive mowed twice (2 acres of fine lawn on my kubota z421 with its new light mud tures) in december alone (in the pnw)

So you are another internet poster to scared to post their real location so they make one up.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

So you are another internet poster to scared to post their real location so they make one up.

Well, nothing wrong with that, I think.

On a world wide publicly visible forum you cannot be careful enough.

Plenty people that were victims of identity theft or that had possessions stolen "to order" can confirm this.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Awesome PIC, AI or not. Reminds me of my teen years in the early 70's. If my field looked like that I don't think I should be operating the tractor. LOL!

Donli may have been less offended if you post it in "Daily Chuckle" instead of a new thread.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

@Starman2112 : What have you planted that makes up the colors in the pasture?

 

[Starman2112]

So you are another internet poster to scared to post their real location so they make one up.

Today would be a great day for you to go out, get off the internet... fire up your Kubota and enjoy a little fresh air. I spent the last week trimming my 15 fruit trees and grinding the limbs with my woodchipper on my LX2610, felt great getting out mid-winter. Thinking of that and the soon to come spring mowing brought me back here to talk with others who enjoy the same thing.

Sitting on the toxic internet too long does have psychological effects and can turn one who's normally not... trolly and toxic.

I think our country could use a lot more of people relaxing, kicking back and just having some fun, even on some Kubota forums with mutual respect and kindness for our fellow tractor fans.

 

[Starman2112]

As to AI, let me help people here.

I just did my yearly oil changes on my LX2610 and Z421 Kubotas. Every year I forget all the info and I have to pull out the manuals and sort through them to get the info on best oil and part numbers. I used AI this year. For exmple:

Chatgpt: " I need to do my yearly oil change on my Kubota z421, give me all the info I need to complete "

That was 3 seconds of typing.





Responce:

1. What the Manual Says

Your Z421 is part of the Kubota Z400 Series and uses a Kawasaki gasoline engine. According to the operator’s manual:

• Engine oil capacity (with filter): ~2.2 qts (2.1 L) on Kawasaki FS730V engines (common on Z421).
• Change oil every 100 hours OR once per year (whichever comes first).
• First oil change should be done early (around 8 hrs) to remove break-in debris.
• Oil filter change: filter should be replaced regularly (typically with every oil change on lawn equipment unless your manual specifies otherwise).

Oil and filter are inexpensive and annual changes are a smart “maintenance vs repair” choice even if hours are low.


2. Tools & Supplies You’ll Need
Fluids

• Engine oil:
  • ~2.2 quarts total with a new filter (check dipstick).
  • Use high-quality SAE oil appropriate for your temperature range (e.g., SAE30, SAE10W-30, SAE10W-40, or SAE40 per operator manual chart if you have it).

Filter

• Engine oil filter that fits the Kawasaki engine (e.g., compatible with FS730V; part looks like 49065-7007 or appropriate Kawasaki OEM).

Tools

• Oil drain pan
• Funnel
• Rags
• Wrench for oil filter
• Gloves and safety glasses

🛞 3. Step-by-Step Oil Change
A. Warm Up the Engine

Run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil — this helps it drain more completely.
Do not change oil while engine is extremely hot to avoid burns.


B. Drain the Old Oil

1. Park the mower on a level, firm surface and stop the engine.
2. Place a drain pan under the engine oil drain valve/fitting.
3. Open the oil drain valve or loosen the drain plug until oil flows into the pan.
4. Remove the dipstick to allow better drainage.
5. Let all oil drain out — warm oil drains faster.

C. Replace the Filter

1. Remove the old oil filter using a filter wrench.
2. Before installing the new filter, fill it with fresh oil and coat the gasket with a thin film of oil.
3. Thread the new filter on by hand only until the gasket contacts the base, then turn about ¾-1 full turn more.
   • This ensures a good seal without over-torquing.

D. Add New Oil

1. Close the drain valve/plug securely.
2. Use a funnel to add fresh oil (about 2.2 quarts with a new filter).
3. Insert and tighten the dipstick.
4. Start the engine and let it run a few minutes; check for leaks around drain and filter.
5. Turn off the engine, wait a few minutes, then check the oil level with the dipstick — add oil if needed.

4. Quick Safety Tips

Always allow the engine to cool before working on it.
Keep used oil in a sealed container and take it to a recycling facility — don’t pour it down drains.
Check the owner’s manual for any specific torque specs if available.
When done, wipe areas clean and check other fluids/filters while you’re at it (air, fuel, hydraulic).


5. Routine Maintenance Interval

• Engine oil & filter: Every 100 hours OR once per year — whichever comes first.
• Many owners just do it every spring if annual hours are low — oil is cheap relative to engine repair.

Summary

No code has to be inserted here.


If you want, I can also provide exact recommended oil viscosity per Seattle winter vs summer, or a step-by-step torque and filter part number list specific to your exact engine serial. Just let me know!

 

[Bearcatrp]

@Starman2112 : What have you planted that makes up the colors in the pasture?

Magic mushrooms

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

@Starman2112 : What have you planted that makes up the colors in the pasture?

Please tell me you know this is faked (AI made up) right?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

As to AI, let me help people here.

I just did my yearly oil changes on my LX2610 and Z421 Kubotas. Every year I forget all the info and I have to pull out the manuals and sort through them to get the info on best oil and part numbers. I used AI this year. For exmple:

Chatgpt: " I need to do my yearly oil change on my Kubota z421, give me all the info I need to complete "

That was 3 seconds of typing.





Responce:

1. What the Manual Says

Your Z421 is part of the Kubota Z400 Series and uses a Kawasaki gasoline engine. According to the operator’s manual:

• Engine oil capacity (with filter): ~2.2 qts (2.1 L) on Kawasaki FS730V engines (common on Z421).
• Change oil every 100 hours OR once per year (whichever comes first).
• First oil change should be done early (around 8 hrs) to remove break-in debris.
• Oil filter change: filter should be replaced regularly (typically with every oil change on lawn equipment unless your manual specifies otherwise).

Oil and filter are inexpensive and annual changes are a smart “maintenance vs repair” choice even if hours are low.


2. Tools & Supplies You’ll Need
Fluids

• Engine oil:
  • ~2.2 quarts total with a new filter (check dipstick).
  • Use high-quality SAE oil appropriate for your temperature range (e.g., SAE30, SAE10W-30, SAE10W-40, or SAE40 per operator manual chart if you have it).

Filter

• Engine oil filter that fits the Kawasaki engine (e.g., compatible with FS730V; part looks like 49065-7007 or appropriate Kawasaki OEM).

Tools

• Oil drain pan
• Funnel
• Rags
• Wrench for oil filter
• Gloves and safety glasses

🛞 3. Step-by-Step Oil Change
A. Warm Up the Engine

Run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil — this helps it drain more completely.
Do not change oil while engine is extremely hot to avoid burns.


B. Drain the Old Oil

1. Park the mower on a level, firm surface and stop the engine.
2. Place a drain pan under the engine oil drain valve/fitting.
3. Open the oil drain valve or loosen the drain plug until oil flows into the pan.
4. Remove the dipstick to allow better drainage.
5. Let all oil drain out — warm oil drains faster.

C. Replace the Filter

1. Remove the old oil filter using a filter wrench.
2. Before installing the new filter, fill it with fresh oil and coat the gasket with a thin film of oil.
3. Thread the new filter on by hand only until the gasket contacts the base, then turn about ¾-1 full turnmore.
   • This ensures a good seal without over-torquing.

D. Add New Oil

1. Close the drain valve/plug securely.
2. Use a funnel to add fresh oil (about 2.2 quarts with a new filter).
3. Insert and tighten the dipstick.
4. Start the engine and let it run a few minutes; check for leaks around drain and filter.
5. Turn off the engine, wait a few minutes, then check the oil level with the dipstick — add oil if needed.

4. Quick Safety Tips

Always allow the engine to cool before working on it.
Keep used oil in a sealed container and take it to a recycling facility — don’t pour it down drains.
Check the owner’s manual for any specific torque specs if available.
When done, wipe areas clean and check other fluids/filters while you’re at it (air, fuel, hydraulic).


5. Routine Maintenance Interval

• Engine oil & filter: Every 100 hours OR once per year — whichever comes first.
• Many owners just do it every spring if annual hours are low — oil is cheap relative to engine repair.

Summary

No code has to be inserted here.


If you want, I can also provide exact recommended oil viscosity per Seattle winter vs summer, or a step-by-step torque and filter part number list specific to your exact engine serial. Just let me know!

I have read far too many AI results that are 100% wrong to trust them!
I'm not saying they don't have their place, but i don't think I want to trust my $50K tractor to a computer that doesn't get the answers right 100% of the time.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Please tell me you know this is faked (AI made up) right?

 

[chim]

Grass height here is under about 10".





Of Snow