Planning ahead.
Can anyone recommend a shop on where to send a pump to thinking it'll be cheaper than the $2K for a new one?
I live in upstate NY but this could be easily shipped.
Thanks -- Gus
Rebuilding a hydraulic pump on a M6800?
- Thread starter Gus1957
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Planning ahead.
Can anyone recommend a shop on where to send a pump to thinking it'll be cheaper than the $2K for a new one?
I live in upstate NY but this could be easily shipped.
Thanks -- Gus
When gear pumps wear out they are not generally rebuildable. How have you determined yours needs rebuilding/replacement?
Planning ahead.
Can anyone recommend a shop on where to send a pump to thinking it'll be cheaper than the $2K for a new one?
I live in upstate NY but this could be easily shipped.
Thanks -- Gus
Dan
I don't know enough about the question to have an opinion, but that statement intrigued me. So I did what we do these days - I did a search and read a bunch of information.
I found companies offering rebuilds, so apparently it CAN be done (at least on some pumps). I also found a bunch of info that said basically, "Yes, it can be done, but it's not worth the time or hassle. You don't get much out of it." Interestingly, I did not find any rebuttal to that viewpoint.
One of the most interesting bits of information came from a company that rebuilds them. This company that clearly profits from rebuilding pumps, basically said it's going to cost you about half the price of a new one, and will get you about half the life of a new one.
The only advantage they offered over buying new OEM was they promised less downtime, because apparently getting the OEM can take quite a while.
I think if I were a large commercial operator I could afford to keep one or two on hand to avoid that downtime.
A lot depends on the pump. Some pumps are designed to be rebuildable and others are not. Rebuildable pumps typically have some form of sacrificial wear plates that can be easily replaced
In the case of this pump the only parts available are the seals and there are no wear plates although the bushings may perform that function. The major wear components that are the source of widened ckearances and lost pressure ,(slip) are not available. That would be items A-H in this parts diagram. Some or all of them would have to be made from scratch. Thats expensive.
Aluminum body gear pumps are cheap to make and new aftermarket pumps are availsble for under $300. Kubota's markup is insane.
Dan
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North Idaho Wolfman
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There are several reasons the "lift Cylinders can seem weaker":
Clogged suction side of pump.
Mal adjusted / damaged pressure relief valve.
Bad / damaged quick disconnects.
Bad seals in one or both lift cylinders.
Bad spool valve.
Bad / mal adjusted loader control linkage.
Before just throwing parts at it, do some serious tests.
There are hydraulic pumps and there are hydraulic pumps. Yes, some are "rebuildable" so there are obviously businesses that do that sort of work. In this case the pump in question is an aluminum body gear pump. Those are typically NOT affordably rebuildable. Re "sealing" these pumps is commonly done but that's a different story than a re "build". Seal "kits" are usually readily available for this type of pump but that's about all. Depending on what the problems are, the overall condition of the pump, prices / availability, budget concerns , expected results, ETC all factor into the mix.
I've resealed a number of gear pumps over the years but usually only if the problem is mostly leak related and the pump flow/pressure tests check out before the work is done.
Thank you for sensible replies. Need to get the testing done to make a good decision. I don't see any external leaks on the lift cylinders.
I've lifted a lot of logs to my sawmill that bring the rear end off the ground and just barely get the logs on the mill or blocking on the side of the mill track abuses the tractor.
Almost 70 and thinking about is it time to get a cab tractor for winter in the NE and the trade offs of repairs versus payments .
Hard to sort out the power benefits of the new models.
I've lifted a lot of logs to my sawmill that bring the rear end off the ground and just barely get the logs on the mill or blocking on the side of the mill track abuses the tractor.
Almost 70 and thinking about is it time to get a cab tractor for winter in the NE and the trade offs of repairs versus payments .
Hard to sort out the power benefits of the new models.
If you think you have lost loader lifting power buy a pressure gsuge and hook it to the lift port on your loader valve
Then move the joystick to lift position, hold it there, and read pressure. If its at or near specification the loss would be in the cylinders.
Dan
Dan,
Last night I got the barn up to 44F with a propane heater and drained the hydraulic oil and changed both filters . There was some water in the oil.
Today refilled with all new oil.
Front remote port where I hook the wood splitter is about 600-700 psi. Rear remote max is about 2,000 psi .
Didn't hook to loader valves yet. But the curl on loader seems to vibrate and hesitate .
Wondering if some of the loader hoses are collapsing inside themselves. They are all 20 years old.
I'm guessing I should replace the hydraulic pump.
Any suggestions?
TY for the replys!
Last night I got the barn up to 44F with a propane heater and drained the hydraulic oil and changed both filters . There was some water in the oil.
Today refilled with all new oil.
Front remote port where I hook the wood splitter is about 600-700 psi. Rear remote max is about 2,000 psi .
Didn't hook to loader valves yet. But the curl on loader seems to vibrate and hesitate .
Wondering if some of the loader hoses are collapsing inside themselves. They are all 20 years old.
I'm guessing I should replace the hydraulic pump.
Any suggestions?
TY for the replys!
If you have 2000 PSI at one set of remotes the pump is fine.
Now why is the front remote low? Is it plumbed differently? Are you measuring pressure the same way?
Can you post a picture of both remotes anf your pressure test hookups?
Dan
I suggest to perform good hydraulic diagnostic procedures. My guess is your tractor has a faulty hydraulic relief valve or possibly 3pt hitch is raised too high due to maladjusted 3pt feedback rod.
Over my many yrs since 1965 of being associated with repairing tractors I've read/heard of many hyd pumps being replaced """prior to performing good hydraulic diagnostic procedures""" only to determine the replaced hydraulic pump was good IE not the hydraulic problem.
Agree with TOH, the pump is fine. I'd check the 'quick connects' for the loader,have seen posts where they can cause problems.
Using the same pressure gauge and pulling the remote levers on the RS of the seat. Tractor is set at 2,000 rpm.
3 pt hitch arms are all the way down.
I just got the gauge at our local NAPA to do the checking. I've never checked it before. I put my horizontal wood splitter on a pallet that I move with the forks in the front of the tractor so I can easily adjust the height for different sizes of firewood.
I don't have testing equipment to measure flow.
Appreciate the help !
TY
Attachments
Opened these 3 drain plugs. I had the loader all the way up as well as the 3 pt hitch. After most oil was out I lowered both and lots more oil came out.
Attachments
I am a little confused. You have two sets of what appears to be factory outlets on the rear - is that correct?
Where do the hoses on the front disconnects attach to the tractor?
Dan
The center remote with the steel lines is the factory that came on the tractor.
The other was added by the dealer during purchase so I could have hydraulic power to swing the disc bine and the other to lift the head.
After stopping haying and getting a wood splitter I had the dealer tap into the rear of the added remote and run hoses to the forward remote to use the splitter out front.
After putting the new boot on the gear shift started tractor and found the loader arms and bucket curl are smooth and no longer hesitate.