Recent content by dvcochran

There is a pushbutton on the fan speed control that you push for A/C. Is this working (light going on/off)? Do you hear the compressor cycling when you press this button? The temp adjustment is the old cable/slide style. If all the above checks out, the heater coil/A/C evaporator are overhead...

As others have said, there are a few different names so go to Fastenal, McMaster-Carr or similar and you can 'build' the bolt(s) you need. 'Partial thread bolt' is also a common name. Fastenal Bolt Selection

Even if it has a 12-volt wire, that connector would not handle a very big motor connection. Depending on what you are doing, I would run a fused wire and use alligator clips straight to the battery.

Measure the wall thickness all the way around the bushing to verify egg shape. Could it be the wrong pin may have been used? Torching out a hub and replacing on a loader is a Major job. Everything has to be parallel and square. PITA.

Always start at the beginning. Look/listen for lights and clicking. Check the battery voltage and load test it (or have it done at your battery shop). The number of people who have been bit by battery terminal connections they Thought were good in countless. Remember, it is vital to check both...

Where are you getting the hydraulic supply/return for the loader valve(s)? If from the remotes on the back of the tractor the first thing I would do is test/replace the quick disconnects and make certain the poppets inside the quick disconnect are opening. Some Kubota remote valves have a...

Did you use UDT or UDT2? It sounds like the first thing to do is get the tractor in a warm place (aka shop), get it thawed out by running the tractor for a while and see if things start moving. If there is a lot of water in the system, this is not ideal, so I would only do it enough to test...

Read @lugbolt 's post but firs of all make certain it is not just loose belt.

If the compressor failed inside, it is likely your system is contaminated (as me how I know). The filter/dryer and condenser are lower than the compressor and end up catching most of the contaminates. I would open the line from the compressor to the condenser, blow it out with nitrogen and look...

You are using a stump grinder on a little 20ish horsepower tractor and having pto problems. Yep, that sound about right. That was my 'here's your sign moment. Most lawn mowers have more horsepower that your 'tractor'.

My experience with the newer style radiators which your Kubota has is that they will look clean when they actually are not. We do a Lot of hay with two Kubota's (and two NH tractors). I have to keep the Kub's on a tighter cleaning schedule than the NH tractors. After every use, (back) blow out...

You can buy the valve from Vevor for $68. are you certain the valve is the problem? serviced the hydraulic system, test temp and flow, and the cylinders? Can you explain what you mean by "it starts to bypass and "the float function doesn't work"?

The only difference is the color and cost. In our area, you need a farm tax card.

I am seeing two different switches. One is a 6-pole push/pull switch and the other is lever style switch. The latter uses a simple limit switch that is known to fail. I tried finding the part numbers on Messick's but had no luck.

Keep an eye on the batting. I think it will fall apart in short order and get into places you don't want it, like the evaporator, and dust the hell out of the cabin. The wrapped batting or reflective are much better IMHO.