Front left hub is a bit sad - advice needed

[Yooper]

Good job Paul!

 

[Paul Allwood]

Since the “top speed” is about 10mph (15kmh?), I think that should be good enough.

I think you’re smart to “stop while you are ahead” instead of "pressing your luck". (pun intended)

Nice job

Thanks

 

[Paul Allwood]

Wow that must have been quite the impact.

Just throwing ideas out there.

I wonder if you cleaned it up real well, and used something like “JB Weld” as some sort of “liquid shim” and greased the wheel (as a parting agent) , then lightly bolted them together?

Maybe that could help/mask/solve the runout issue?

I have had very limited success "bending back” cast parts.

Just an idea….

Now that it's close I might try building up the low areas on the mounting face with some JB Weld, then machine the JB Weld to get the mounting face true to the shaft.

 

[Paul Allwood]

Good job Paul!

Thanks

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Now that it's close I might try building up the low areas on the mounting face with some JB Weld, then machine the JB Weld to get the mounting face true to the shaft.

Yea, the old "JB Weld” has always been somewhat of an “Enignma, wrapped in a Riddle” to me.

I have had it work great sometimes……….Less than great, at other times.

Can’t put my finger on it exactly, but for $7.99, on “non critical” applications, its usually "worth a go."

Hope it works for ya!!!

 

[Paul Allwood]

Yea, the old "JB Weld” has always been somewhat of an “Enignma, wrapped in a Riddle” to me.

I have had it work great sometimes……….Less than great, at other times.

Can’t put my finger on in exactly, but for $7.99, on “non critical” applications, its usually "worth a go."

Hope it works for ya!!!

Thanks. As you say at less than 10 mph it's not overly critical. Given that the thin layer of JB Weld that will be left will only be in compression, it might work. If it doesn't, I don't reckon it will be any worse.

 

[Russell King]

Since you seem to be compelled to try and fix it since it is out of the tractor the JB Weld would probably work.

One other thought would be to machine a steel spacer that would fit over the face of the hub, Glue it in place and then machine it down to be flat. I think I would probably leave it about 1 mm above the glued surface but you may need 2 mm. Then drill the holes out for the studs. If the wheel has to fit the hub this idea may not work well?

The JB Weld could be used as the glue or something that Henkel makes like permanent lock tight.

This is a link to their structural adhesives

Search

next.henkel-adhesives.com

 

[Paul Allwood]

Since you seem to be compelled to try and fix it since it is out of the tractor the JB Weld would probably work.

One other thought would be to machine a steel spacer that would fit over the face of the hub, Glue it in place and then machine it down to be flat. I think I would probably leave it about 1 mm above the glued surface but you may need 2 mm. Then drill the holes out for the studs. If the wheel has to fit the hub this idea may not work well?

The JB Weld could be used as the glue or something that Henkel makes like permanent lock tight.

This is a link to their structural adhesives

Search

next.henkel-adhesives.com

Thanks Russell. The wheel does locate on the hub as the wheel studs are pretty loose in the holes. Then it's just a plain nut and a flat washer. I might need to keep as much of the hub engaged as I can so might try the JB Weld first.

You're right - I am keen to fix it. It doesn't really matter if it's not running for a few more days while I try this. Keen to see if it works.

 

[Lil Foot]

As stated above, that much runout is probably OK;
I would try to shim it closer by placing shim washers on the lugs, rather than JB weld.
Hardware stores usually have a few different thickness washers on hand, usually depending on material.
If not, cut your own out of the appropriate thickness sheet.
If you succeed, mark the orientation of the wheel & hub to assure correct location if you need to remove the wheel.

 

[Paul Allwood]

The flange is now coated in JB Weld. I'll leave it till this time tomorrow and see how set it is. The pack says it sets in 5-6 hours and cures in 15-24 hours. For anyone who has used it and machined it, how long have you waited before machining ? Has 24 hours been enough ?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Caution this is filled with Opinion:
I personally think the JB weld on it is overkill and unnecessary.
It's a slow moving tractor, the real issue is strength especially with the loader attached.
The JB will wear, crack and soften over time causing more issues.
If anything a washer as a shim would have been a better choice.

Not wishing you any ill will, but keep a close eye on it in the future.

 

[Paul Allwood]

Caution this is filled with Opinion:
I personally think the JB weld on it is overkill and unnecessary.
It's a slow moving tractor, the real issue is strength especially with the loader attached.
The JB will wear, crack and soften over time causing more issues.
If anything a washer as a shim would have been a better choice.

Not wishing you any ill will, but keep a close eye on it in the future.

Thanks - I will keep an eye on it. Worst case if it fails I can always take it back to the original steel surface.

 

[Yooper]

I know this much about machining epoxy if you do it on your lathe. The tool bit has to be sharp with little to no radius at the tip. I would use a HSS tool bit that I sharpened to a point. Same thing if you’re milling with a fly cutter. Good luck Paul!

 

[Butch]

I had a go at pressing the flange today and managed to reduce the maximum runout from about 5mm to 1mm. This took a few goes and the last couple of attempts would help in one spot but not in another. So without lots more time in making a fancier press setup, I decided that would be good enough. Also keen to stop before anything cracked - didn't know how close I was and didn't want to push my luck.

If it still bothers me I may use some JB Weld as someone suggested above.

Given the comments and commenters so far, I haven't put anything back together yet. Always happy to receive these great comments and suggestions.

Here's a few pics and videos of what I did.

Pressing with the flange bolted to a 1" plate.

View attachment 169041

View attachment 169042

Checking runout using the graduations on the top slide on the lathe.

View attachment 169043

View attachment 169044 View attachment 169045

Final runout way better than when I started.

29 January 2026

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Checking shaft - +/- 0.004". I think this is ok.

29 January 2026

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Checking hub that located centre of wheel - +/- 0.010". I think this is ok too.

29 January 2026

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You'd fit in with us so PERFECT!!! Bush-Fix do it yourself with what you have to work with. You would make a great West Virginia Hillbilly.... old school like me! I was born and raised in a holler at the foot of the Appalachian Mnts.

 

[TheOldHokie]

You'd fit in with us so PERFECT!!! Bush-Fix do it yourself with what you have to work with. You would make a great West Virginia Hillbilly.... old school like me! I was born and raised in a holler at the foot of the Appalachian Mnts.

Careful!! I resemble that remark!!!

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

We all do, what we gotta do, to keep things running and working for us!

Some just do it with bubble gum and duct tape.
Others with a slide rule and an engineering degree.
And lets not forget the wing and a prayer group too!

 

[Paul Allwood]

You'd fit in with us so PERFECT!!! Bush-Fix do it yourself with what you have to work with. You would make a great West Virginia Hillbilly.... old school like me! I was born and raised in a holler at the foot of the Appalachian Mnts.

Thanks Butch

 

[Paul Allwood]

You'd fit in with us so PERFECT!!! Bush-Fix do it yourself with what you have to work with. You would make a great West Virginia Hillbilly.... old school like me! I was born and raised in a holler at the foot of the Appalachian Mnts.

Many years ago I fitted coil springs from the front of a Range Rover to the back of a 60 series LandCruiser. I made brackets to fit them under the chassis rails and on top of the leaf spring pack. They worked well to lift the rear a little and soften the ride a lot.

On the first big trip with them fitted we were in sand in the Little Desert in western Victoria and the pad at bottom of one coil spring kept creeping forwards. I must have had the angle slightly off.

I cut some heavy fencing wire from an old fallen down fence in the Little Desert and used it to hold the bottom coil spring bracket in place. It worked beautifully. As you say, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

Several years after this I refitted the fencing wire when I upgraded the leaf springs. The 60 series isn't running, but fencing wire is still there 30 years later.

I kept a coil of this piece of old fencing wire jammed into the bullbar for years....for emergencies.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Wait 2 days, even if kept in nice warm room. That 24hrs is based on a PERFECT conditions, like 50/50 mix and 72*F. Most failures are due to not getting 50/50 and being impatient with curing time.

 

[Paul Allwood]

Wait 2 days, even if kept in nice warm room. That 24hrs is based on a PERFECT conditions, like 50/50 mix and 72*F. Most failures are due to not getting 50/50 and being impatient with curing time.

Thanks