I put grease in the front axle center pivot support of my l2501 4x4 without taking the vent plug out. Heard a pop & grease shot out the back of the housing. Has anyone had to repair the o ring or seal. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Front axle center pivot o ring replacement?
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Just a single O-ring, no seals.
Easy, lift the front tires at least 2" off the ground
Then remove the six bolts holding the front and rear carrier.
Drop the axle down the 2" then remove the front carrier.
Inspect the carrier for cracks.
Replace O-ring and then reverse the process.
Easy, lift the front tires at least 2" off the ground
Then remove the six bolts holding the front and rear carrier.
Drop the axle down the 2" then remove the front carrier.
Inspect the carrier for cracks.
Replace O-ring and then reverse the process.
Thank you I will get it fixed & I won't forget to pull the vent plug from now on!!
There’s little reason (in most cases) to shoot tons of grease into most grease-fittings.… especially this one where not rollers or ball-bearings exist. Only a “little db ‘ll do ya’” ….(old Bryl-cream slogan).
Really… just ONE shot of grease in most plain bearings is appropriate.
Really… just ONE shot of grease in most plain bearings is appropriate.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Another case of “size matters”. ( my ”shots” are tiny since the surgery)
…however, if Kubota says to “grease it”…and provides a zerk…. it needs grease.
My own front axle pivot is an early model…the rear pivot (shared with the 4wd shaft) has a zerk….… but the pivot fwd of the axle does not…yet has a need for grease apparently, as K put a zerk in later models. K wants RealMoney for the later, replacement-part….. so I’m considering drilling/tapping/inserting a zerk… and don’t look forward to the task. According to Messick’s “hints”…it takes 3 hours to jack the tractor, support the axle w/straps, remove the 4wd shaft coupling, then unbolt the bracket, reverse the procedure.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
If you drill it you must drill 2 holes one for a zerk, one for a plug.Another case of “size matters”. ( my ”shots” are tiny since the surgery)
…however, if Kubota says to “grease it”…and provides a zerk…. it needs grease.
My own front axle pivot is an early model…the rear pivot (shared with the 4wd shaft) has a zerk….… but the pibot fwd of the axle does not…yet has a need for grease apparently, as K put a zerk in later models. K wants RealMoney for the later, replacement-part….. so I’m considering drilling/tapping/inserting a zerk… and don’t look forward to the task. According to Messick’s “hints”…it takes 3 hours to jack the tractor, support the axle w/straps, remove the 4wd shaft coupling, then unbolt the bracket, reverse the procedure.
View attachment 161912
The more I think about this….. I‘m thinking there’s actually no need to drop the axle to remove that front bracket to install a zerk. …. I can drill and tap using a greased tap to remove the filings from the drillign/ tapping…. and grease it. (I’ll need to drill all the way thru the bracket And the bushing until reaching the “spigot” or “stud” which forms the axle-casting saddle…. any minor “over-depth” shouldn’t be harmful …..
Thoughts…?
Thoughts…?
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Will the tap be able to get enough thread into the bracket wall? I doubt it myself but perhaps there are some types of self tapping zerks or a push in version??
I'll be the huckleberry....
Don't grease it with the zerk. It moves less than a leaf spring hanger. If it squeeks, shoot it with wd40.
Should have not been a zerk there at all, if it blows out a seal / O-ring if you use the zerk!
If you pull the axle, grease the pivot to excess. Then, forget about it.
Don't grease it with the zerk. It moves less than a leaf spring hanger. If it squeeks, shoot it with wd40.
Should have not been a zerk there at all, if it blows out a seal / O-ring if you use the zerk!
If you pull the axle, grease the pivot to excess. Then, forget about it.
Leave it with the blown o ring and grease it more often. It's a non-issue. The 'damage' was done.
With these nice tractors, OCD can ruin a day..
Don't grease that zerk.
@NorthwoodsLif : What you posted makes some sense. If it were a high-wear point you’d think K would have made Mine greaseable from the the get-go…
I also wonder if I couldn’t service it by simply removing the adjustment-bolt at the front…shooting grease in it (moly-grease perhaps) and reassemble it.
A couple years ago folks may recall I had the local dealer replace the power steering ram. I wish I’d thought about it at that time (since they had to drop that axle anyway) …and have them upgrade to the later greaseable bracket.
But, you are likely correct. It’s a 1996 tractor…although low-hours…(700)… it shows no indications of wear in that area.
I also wonder if I couldn’t service it by simply removing the adjustment-bolt at the front…shooting grease in it (moly-grease perhaps) and reassemble it.
A couple years ago folks may recall I had the local dealer replace the power steering ram. I wish I’d thought about it at that time (since they had to drop that axle anyway) …and have them upgrade to the later greaseable bracket.
But, you are likely correct. It’s a 1996 tractor…although low-hours…(700)… it shows no indications of wear in that area.