Hydrant Head Replacement?

[LarryBud]

Hey Folks,

I'm looking for some advice on my water hydrant. The handle on the head is old and starting to break ( one side broken ). It still functions for now but needs some muscle to lift and close. One of these days it will be broken all together and I'll have an emergency on my hands.

Any advice on leaving the stem in the pipe and just replacing the head ( which I sure will be a bear to remove )? Or, should I replace everything once I have it apart? I'm not a plumber but can handle the basics.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[LarryBud]

 

[jimh406]

I can't make out the brand, but some brands have all of the replacement parts. Some are made to replace parts without digging them up.

 

[jyoutz]

Nobody wants to do this, myself included, but digging it up and replacing the whole hydrant is your best option. Then you will have years of trouble free service. I had to do this last year.

 

[LarryBud]

Nobody wants to do this, myself included, but digging it up and replacing the whole hydrant is your best option. Then you will have years of trouble free service. I had to do this last year.

Any way to just keep the pipe and put in new hardware back in the pipe without digging?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Any way to just keep the pipe and put in new hardware back in the pipe without digging?

Without getting the same or exact compatible hydrant head, no not an option.
Looking at that top section of that hydrant, I can only imagine what condition the pipe and rod and the actual valve (which is at the bottom of the hydrant) are.
So replacing the entire hydrant is a much smarter option.

 

[Lil Foot]

Any way to just keep the pipe and put in new hardware back in the pipe without digging?

Depends on the brand.
I rebuilt mine (Merrill Mfg C1000) without digging twice over 30+ years, kits were available for cheap.
($11-$12?)
Unscrew the head, change a couple seals, o-rings, and a plunger, re-assemble & re-adjust.
But my neighbor had another brand and we could not find kits for it.
He had to dig up & replace it.
I recently had to dig up my stop & waste valve (main shutoff) to replace it, so I put a new hydrant in at the same time.
YMMV.

 

[Lil Foot]

Yours is looks pretty bad, here is a pic of mine from the steel recycle scrap pile.
But I'm in Arizona....

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Any way to just keep the pipe and put in new hardware back in the pipe without digging?

Tractor Supply shows a head that's supposed to be universal if your riser is 3/4" pipe. Barring that, you could make a new yoke if you have some scrap steel, a welder and some basic tools.

 

[LarryBud]

Thanks all.

It’s a Woodford model K1C. They look to be one of the more common hydrants. I’ll look for parts and replace the whole thing if I must.

I don’t have a backhoe so it’s with shovel work or a rental. I don’t like either.

 

[jyoutz]

Without getting the same or exact compatible hydrant head, no not an option.
Looking at that top section of that hydrant, I can only imagine what condition the pipe and rod and the actual valve (which is at the bottom of the hydrant) are.
So replacing the entire hydrant is a much smarter option.

That’s what I was thinking. The rod and valve are no doubt in pretty poor condition if the head looks the way it does.

 

[chim]

Replacing the whole thing would be best to insure many years of trouble free operation. However, being a frugal DIY guy I'd try a repair kit first. If that doesn't work it won't be a major cost.

The closeup picture leads me to believe that the real issue is corrosion of those links because of dissimilar metal. Iron and aluminum interface out in the weather? As others have mentioned, you can't be certain of the condition of the hidden parts. You mentioned that it's hard to operate. That is likely because something you can't see is in poor condition. Or it could be that the broken link and some "unpleasantness" where the rod comes through the top.

 

[hedgerow]

Thanks all.

It’s a Woodford model K1C. They look to be one of the more common hydrants. I’ll look for parts and replace the whole thing if I must.

I don’t have a backhoe so it’s with shovel work or a rental. I don’t like either.

I have changed many of those heads on those Iowa, Woodford no freeze hydrants. I would give it a try. I hope you have a way to shut the water off if the repair goes sideways. If you don't I would just shut the well down and dig it up and replace it. Normally those Iowa hydrants last 30-40 years. There the only brand that last around here.

 

[lynnmor]

I am working on a Ken-May hydrant right now, it appears that it is a dinosaur that was made in Vermont, Illinois. The thing failed after only 50 years. Since it is now up against an inside block wall and buried real deep it will be a project to replace. The concrete floor has an 18" x 18" opening filled with crushed stone so there is some hope of digging it out one spoonful at a time. Anyone out there know of a parts source?