Fixing something to fix something.

[McMXi]

Fixing something to fix something has been a very common theme for me over the years, and today was no exception.

I bought an aluminum CargoPro trailer eleven years ago to pull behind the Jeep. It's light at 400lb and is rated (GVWR) for 1,800lb so a good match for the Jeep. I installed a 7-pin trailer connector in the custom bumper of the Jeep around the time that I bought the trailer. A couple of years ago the spring loaded door broke off, and then the trailer end connector housing that came with the CargoPro broke, so it has been annoying to say the least to get the trailer connected. I kept putting it off since I figured it'd be a real pain to replace/pull the trailer end cable all the way back to the connection point at the other end of the tongue. I had purchased a replacement 7-pin trailer connector and a 7-pin silicon sheathed trailer end and cable at least two years ago, and possibly three years ago, but it sat in a box in the garage.

This morning I planned on going to the local landfill to drop off a bunch of trash, so got the aluminum trailer loaded up and ready to go. After filling up the trailer I set about trying to connect the broken trailer end to the broken trailer connector, and once again it was a pain to say the least. After messing with it for 15 minutes I finally told myself that enough is enough! Two hours later I had managed to remove the old trailer end and cable, removed the old trailer connector, run the new trailer end cable through the tongue, soldered the four necessary wires to the factory harness, covered the connections with heat shrink, tapped the four holes in the bumper to use a nicer hex head screw, and installed the new trailer connector. I tested the wiring before buttoning everything up and all is good.

So once again I had to fix something to fix something. I never got to go to the dump but that can wait until tomorrow. I'm pleased to have finally got this done and be outside on such a beautiful day.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Looks good.

"Fixing something to fix something has been a very common theme for me over the years, and today was no exception." Yep. Story of my life.

Question: Why a 7 pin on a 1800 lb GVWR trailer. Does the trailer have brakes?

Seems like a 4 pin would suffice.

 

[McMXi]

Looks good.

"Fixing something to fix something has been a very common theme for me over the years, and today was no exception." Yep. Story of my life.

Question: Why a 7 pin on a 1800 lb GVWR trailer. Does the trailer have brakes?

Seems like a 4 pin would suffice.

Good question and you're absolutely right. The trailer came new with a 7-pin connector but only four of the wires are used for the lights. There are no brakes on the trailer. Since the trailer was set up that way, I added a 7-pin connector to the Jeep and much prefer that style over the four pin connector type.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

With 7 pins it's easy to add backup lights to trailer , add battery for winch on trailer.
Maybe one day he'll want brakes ?
You can have brakes and work lights on a 4 pin wiring though, costs about $40 + or - .

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

ALL of my trucks and trailers no matter how they are equipped use a 7 pin plug.
I got tired years ago of trying to find that lost / misplaced adapter!

 

[biketopia]

ALL of my trucks and trailers no matter how they are equipped use a 7 pin plug.
I got tired years ago of trying to find that lost / misplaced adapter!

Exactly! I've converted every trailer I ever had that has a 4-way over to the 7-way. It's a more robust connection and has no adapter. None of my tow pigs are new enough to have the 7 & 4 way standard, even so, I'd convert over.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

same here...every ONE ..
Both my ONE truck and ONE trailer are 7 pinners. Downsizing does have it's benefits though I do miss my 4pinned trailer with brakes and work lights.

 

[McMXi]

Exactly! I've converted every trailer I ever had that has a 4-way over to the 7-way. It's a more robust connection and has no adapter. None of my tow pigs are new enough to have the 7 & 4 way standard, even so, I'd convert over.

Yep! I have five trailers and all have the 7-pin trailer end connector. The boat trailer has hydraulic brakes but all the rest have electric brakes with the exception of the CargoPro, so even if a trailer only needs a four wire connection I still much prefer the 7-pin style.

My '02 F-250 and the Jeep, and now the '24 F-450 have 7-pin connectors. The F-450 has an additional connector in the bed for the gooseneck/5th wheel which is nice.

 

[McMXi]

same here...every ONE ..
Both my ONE truck and ONE trailer are 7 pinners. Downsizing does have it's benefits though I do miss my 4pinned trailer with brakes and work lights.

You've often mentioned reverse lights on a trailer and I've "seen the light" so to speak. This is something that I'd like to add to all of my trailers at some point.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You've often mentioned reverse lights on a trailer and I've "seen the light" so to speak. This is something that I'd like to add to all of my trailers at some point.

Back up lights on a trailer are the cats MEOW!
I had one that had load light too, that was nice when I did a lot of night road work.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Every 7 pin setup 'should' have them, though you might need a relay and a fuse under the hood to 'enable' them.
I put them on my 4 pinned trailers cause backing up a black trailer on a curvy gravel laneway at night in the country isn't too much 'fun', as all you see is the FRONT of the trailer.....

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Every 7 pin setup 'should' have them, though you might need a relay and a fuse under the hood to 'enable' them.
I put them on my 4 pinned trailers cause backing up a black trailer on a curvy gravel laneway at night in the country isn't too much 'fun', as all you see is the FRONT of the trailer.....

How do you make a 4 pin do back up lights or work lights?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Easy..... I take a 50cent PIC microcomputer to 'look at' the status of the 3 incoming lines(brn,yel,grn) . Based upon what it 'sees' it either turns on work lights , backup lights, brakes. Using LEDs, no need for separate power ,can use 'running lights' power ( 5+ amps ).

1) turn on 'running' lights,powers PIC and 'confirm signal'
2) If the driver signals left turn for 3 flashes, then right turn for 3 flashes, 1st work lights come on
3) similar commands for backup lights
4) turn on 'running lights' kills all.

brakes work if both yel and grn are on for more than 1 sec, use PWM to ramp up power to brake coils. Use aux battery that's recharged from 'running' power lead.
PIC only has 8 pins, 3 in, 3 out, 2 power.
The crazy thing is the box cost MORE than all the electronics to make this work.

It was one of those bets at lunch, get free dinner challenges that I won.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Easy..... I take a 50cent PIC microcomputer to 'look at' the status of the 3 incoming lines(brn,yel,grn) . Based upon what it 'sees' it either turns on work lights , backup lights, brakes. Using LEDs, no need for separate power ,can use 'running lights' power ( 5+ amps ).

1) turn on 'running' lights,powers PIC and 'confirm signal'
2) If the driver signals left turn for 3 flashes, then right turn for 3 flashes, 1st work lights come on
3) similar commands for backup lights
4) turn on 'running lights' kills all.

brakes work if both yel and grn are on for more than 1 sec, use PWM to ramp up power to brake coils. Use aux battery that's recharged from 'running' power lead.
PIC only has 8 pins, 3 in, 3 out, 2 power.
The crazy thing is the box cost MORE than all the electronics to make this work.

It was one of those bets at lunch, get free dinner challenges that I won.

Yep, That is easy. LOL

I'd prefer a 7 pin and be done with it.

But, it's about whatever floats your boat.

GREAT info Green Jay. Thank you.

 

[McMXi]

I bought this 10ft x 5ft CargoPro aluminum trailer new for $2,700 in 2014. and overall it's a really well made trailer for the money. The only "cheap" part of it is the plywood floor that is screwed to 3"x2" I-beams that are 24" on center. The trailer has been and continues to be a workhorse for me. I have two dump trailers and two flatbed trailers but this one gets used more than the rest. Friends have borrowed it and I've used the heck out of it. I even hauled a $900 Honda powered 5 cu.ft. concrete mixer a few hundred miles back home with it.

The plywood floor has been deteriorating over the years and more than once I've looked into replacing it with a sheet of aluminum diamond plate. Currently I have an old sheet of plywood laying in the trailer on top of the original floor but it's not an elegant solution. I check CraigsList on a regular basis and there are two 4ft x 10ft sheets of .090" thick 6061 aluminum sheet for sale near me. The cost for the pair is $425 which is less than the cost for one sheet new from the local metal supplier.

If the sheets were 4ft x 12ft it'd be a done deal and I'd double them up, but the thickness and size are a dilemma. Given the 24" spacing of the cross members it makes sense to cut off sections to match the inside width of the trailer which is 4ft-10in. If I did this, I'd have two sheets that are 4ft x 4ft-10in and an offcut that's 4ft x 4in. I could use the second sheet and cut a piece that's 4ft-10in x 1ft-11in but then I wouldn't have enough material to double up the thickness of the floor.

My dilemma here is that that I don't think that 3/32" (0.090") thick aluminum sheet is thick enough for the deck. Doubled up would be ok I think. Perhaps I've just talked myself out of this "upgrade" for now.

 

[RCW]

I bought this 10ft x 5ft CargoPro aluminum trailer new for $2,700 in 2014. and overall it's a really well made trailer for the money. The only "cheap" part of it is the plywood floor that is screwed to 3"x2" I-beams that are 24" on center. The trailer has been and continues to be a workhorse for me. I have two dump trailers and two flatbed trailers but this one gets used more than the rest. Friends have borrowed it and I've used the heck out of it. I even hauled a $900 Honda powered 5 cu.ft. concrete mixer a few hundred miles back home with it.

The plywood floor has been deteriorating over the years and more than once I've looked into replacing it with a sheet of aluminum diamond plate. Currently I have an old sheet of plywood laying in the trailer on top of the original floor but it's not an elegant solution. I check CraigsList on a regular basis and there are two 4ft x 10ft sheets of .090" thick 6061 aluminum sheet for sale near me. The cost for the pair is $425 which is less than the cost for one sheet new from the local metal supplier.

If the sheets were 4ft x 12ft it'd be a done deal and I'd double them up, but the thickness and size are a dilemma. Given the 24" spacing of the cross members it makes sense to cut off sections to match the inside width of the trailer which is 4ft-10in. If I did this, I'd have two sheets that are 4ft x 4ft-10in and an offcut that's 4ft x 4in. I could use the second sheet and cut a piece that's 4ft-10in x 1ft-11in but then I wouldn't have enough material to double up the thickness of the floor.

My dilemma here is that that I don't think that 3/32" (0.090") thick aluminum sheet is thick enough for the deck. Doubled up would be ok I think. Perhaps I've just talked myself out of this "upgrade" for now.

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You know better than me, but 3/16" of aluminum on 24" centers doesn't sound ideal to me either.

Sounds like you made a wise choice.

 

[McMXi]

You know better than me, but 3/16" of aluminum on 24" centers doesn't sound ideal to me either.

Sounds like you made a wise choice.

I'm not sure that I do but I would have few concerns with 3/16" on 24" centers if properly secured which might mean welded in. I really need a 4ft x 12ft sheet and called the local metal supplier this morning. They can get a sheet of 3/16" diamond plate for $850 but it's 3003 aluminum which is more decorative than structural so not a go.

Back to the drawing board I guess.

 

[hedgerow]

Over the years I have refloored many smaller trailers that had plywood on them for floors . Some we just went back with marine grade plywood and called it a day. Some we put the plywood down and used 6061 aluminum over the plywood. I have used aluminum flooring out of wrecked reefer semi trailers. I have used decking out of semi livestock trailers. One we even used steel diamond plate. It added some unneeded weight to the trailer but the trailer owner had it and it was free. Last one we did we used plastic boards on it. He pretty much only hauls his mower on the trailer and it sets outside all the time. So far he likes the plastic once again he got the board for free.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Over the years I have refloored many smaller trailers that had plywood on them for floors . Some we just went back with marine grade plywood and called it a day. Some we put the plywood down and used 6061 aluminum over the plywood. I have used aluminum flooring out of wrecked reefer semi trailers. I have used decking out of semi livestock trailers. One we even used steel diamond plate. It added some unneeded weight to the trailer but the trailer owner had it and it was free. Last one we did we used plastic boards on it. He pretty much only hauls his mower on the trailer and it sets outside all the time. So far he likes the plastic once again he got the board for free.

Yep. ^^^^

Marine grade plywood, covered by surplus aluminum diamond plate. The 'on center' of the frame isn't an issue to the alum top plate, only to the plywood.

Trailer floor might outlive you, and all of us.

 

[McMXi]

Some we put the plywood down and used 6061 aluminum over the plywood.

I would be concerned with putting aluminum over plywood for a trailer that's exposed to the weather. I would think that the aluminum would trap moisture in the plywood and cause it to rot even faster. Not saying that my concerns are well founded, just intuitively. I'm still in the 3/16" 6061 camp, but finding a 4ftx12ft sheet might be a challenge. That would be the most cost effective approach, but I might not have that option.