Common man.- that should be pretty obvious. What I was trying to say was counterclockwise (out) only - not back and forth.
Dan
Kx033-4 final drive oil drain plugs
- Thread starter Semo
- Start date
Dan
The reason for not using an impact wrench is the hammering. The breaker bar exerts a steady push, and with a proper 8mm hex socket, fully inserted, will work. It will not be required after the first removal. The caps have a rubber o-ring under the head, so do not use heat.
Fortunately for me, what was stripped what mostly my Allen key, so a good socket, tapped in, worked to remove the stubborn plug. Doesn't have to be Snap On.
Fortunately for me, what was stripped what mostly my Allen key, so a good socket, tapped in, worked to remove the stubborn plug. Doesn't have to be Snap On.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Sorry......but "never in reverse" ......meant "never in reverse" to me!
LH thread?
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I think what he is alluding to is the "trick" to removing stubborn fasteners. It often helps to drive a fastener tighter and then loosen to break one free.
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Agreed, most of mine are craftsman. If I only got 1% of snap on though, it would be the gold zinc tipped allen/torx sets. I have broken countless 10 mm allen heads but never since I switched to the snap on set.
Upon closer inspection, the plugs are pretty clean with no corrosion, so I probably wouldn't have put any heat to them. Good to know there are rubber o-rings though. Will go to H. Depot ( less than a mile away) and get the hex socket. Thanks
I read all of the threads on removing the final drive plugs. Why are they so tight from the factory? Stripped the plugs. Can anyone offer advice on how to remove them? Thought about welding a bolt in the hex hole but don’t know if the heat would cause internal damage. Anyone have experience getting them out after they are stopped?