Lubrication of LA765 FEL on L4701

[Bark]

I am probably just stupid but pg21 of my manual says:
"Lubricate all grease fittings every 10 hours of
operation. Also lubricate joints of control lever linkage
every 10 hours"
They have a good diagram of where all the grease fittings are but do not show how to lubricate the control lever linkage.
The only control lever that I know of is the main stick/knob for operating the FEL and it has a shroud on top and a plate on the bottom only allowing you a small view of the main stick linkage. I don't want to be spraying WD40 or something on it because dust and dirt would stick to it.
Perhaps somebody can tell me what I am misinterpreting so I can slap my forehead and say "DUH".

 

[Trapper Bob]

I took that to mean the linkage on the 3 pt. between the operating arms & control arms.

 

[Roadworthy]

Yep, the manual's unclear on that. Incidentally, WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's to protect against moisture. The WD is for water displacement. The 40 indicates it's the fortieth compound they tried.

 

[NCL4701]

I took “Also lubricate joints of control lever linkage” to be part of a generic statement not really specific to the LA765. If the control stick was on the right fender with cables or rods or something transferring the movements to a loader valve further forward on the tractor (seems to be common in tractors fancier than ours), it would be appropriate to keep those linkages lubricated in some manner. In the case of our LA765 loaders, the stick is directly connected to the valve so there’s nothing to lubricate.

If that isn’t correct, I too would like to know what specifically needs lubrication on the controls.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

All 'lubricants' will attract dust and dirt... nature of the beast. The trick is to wipe off most of the old, before you add new.
I use Rustchek, green top is thicker, lightly pray it on 'here,there,everywhere' for the past 4 years. everything moves well, even the loader support that I've never used.
Adding a simple 1-2 drops of oil to any 'joint' is a very,very good idea.

 

[Bmyers]

I am probably just stupid but pg21 of my manual says:
"Lubricate all grease fittings every 10 hours of
operation. Also lubricate joints of control lever linkage
every 10 hours"
They have a good diagram of where all the grease fittings are but do not show how to lubricate the control lever linkage.
The only control lever that I know of is the main stick/knob for operating the FEL and it has a shroud on top and a plate on the bottom only allowing you a small view of the main stick linkage. I don't want to be spraying WD40 or something on it because dust and dirt would stick to it.
Perhaps somebody can tell me what I am misinterpreting so I can slap my forehead and say "DUH".

As it was pointed out WD-40 is not lubricant. They do make lubricant sprays and one I use is WD-40 Dry Lube. It will dry fairly quickly and in three years of use (which I know isn't long term) it has worked well on protecting parts such as the PTO shaft. No rust, slide well, which compared to my dad's PTO shaft who hasn't had any lube, you can see a big difference.

I lift the shroud on my joystick and spray dry lube in there on those joints. I agree with you, it would be nice if they had a little clearer instructions.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Incidentally, WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's to protect against moisture. The WD is for water displacement. The 40 indicates it's the fortieth compound they tried.

It's a lousy lubricant, a pathetic penetrating oil, but it sure is well marketed!

It does displace water very well. But that's all it does well.

 

[fried1765]

I am probably just stupid but pg21 of my manual says:
"Lubricate all grease fittings every 10 hours of
operation. Also lubricate joints of control lever linkage
every 10 hours"
They have a good diagram of where all the grease fittings are but do not show how to lubricate the control lever linkage.
The only control lever that I know of is the main stick/knob for operating the FEL and it has a shroud on top and a plate on the bottom only allowing you a small view of the main stick linkage. I don't want to be spraying WD40 or something on it because dust and dirt would stick to it.
Perhaps somebody can tell me what I am misinterpreting so I can slap my forehead and say "DUH".

I spray LPS-3 on all linkage controls, and it dries leaving a relatively thick coating
Yes, it does pick up dust and/or dirt, but under the dust/dirt it does lubricate the linkage.
WD-40 is totally worthless as a lasting lubricant!

 

[GeoHorn]

I disagree with the declaration that WD40 is not a lubricant. It certainly IS... and says so on the can.

I agree it is not persistent…. but if you are going to use it every TEN HOURS…. it sounds to me to be the perfect remedy. The joy-stick linkages rod-ends are exposed to dirt, water, atmosphere and WD40 is IDEAL for that and if used every ten-hours will clean it and protect it from rust and corrosion.

I also agree Any persistent lubricant will attract dust and dirt and hold it there. WD40 is more suitable IMO.

The question which begs is “What do they mean by Ten Hours?” Are they talking ten hrs of TRACTOR USE..?? or LOADER use…?? I drive my tractor primarily for mowing and other than raise the forks or bucket off the ground (five seconds of use)….. there is no time spent using the loader.
I grease it once per quarter along with the rest of the tractor, and WD40 the joystick monthly.

Many folks completely ignore the loader for months (one friend I have in lou-easy—anna has never greased his 20 yr old Kubota and it squeals at each joint when he uses it. Without telling him I greased it six months ago and he hasn’t even noticed the squealing has stopped.)

 

[O3JP]

Hi Bark
I am new to the forum.
I greased my 765 loader a couple of weeks ago to my newly acquired 12hr L4701. The ops manual called out for GP grease, buy the loader manual called for moly. So I used a 3% moly lithium base grease. Did I go overkill ?…..because regular grease would be less messy…that black moly is a pita.

 

[Bmyers]

Hi Bark
I am new to the forum.
I greased my 765 loader a couple of weeks ago to my newly acquired 12hr L4701. The ops manual called out for GP grease, buy the loader manual called for moly. So I used a 3% moly lithium base grease. Did I go overkill ?…..because regular grease would be less messy…that black moly is a pita.

I feel your pain. My manual states to use MP and later is states to use Molly EP. My take away, just make sure it is greased. Molly is preferred, but MP will work. (I use Polyurea grease (MP). )

30 pages later it states this

 

[fried1765]

I disagree with the declaration that WD40 is not a lubricant. It certainly IS... and says so on the can.

I agree it is not persistent…. but if you are going to use it every TEN HOURS…. it sounds to me to be the perfect remedy. The joy-stick linkages rod-ends are exposed to dirt, water, atmosphere and WD40 is IDEAL for that and if used every ten-hours will clean it and protect it from rust and corrosion.

I also agree Any persistent lubricant will attract dust and dirt and hold it there. WD40 is more suitable IMO.

The question which begs is “What do they mean by Ten Hours?” Are they talking ten hrs of TRACTOR USE..?? or LOADER use…?? I drive my tractor primarily for mowing and other than raise the forks or bucket off the ground (five seconds of use)….. there is no time spent using the loader.
I grease it once per quarter along with the rest of the tractor, and WD40 the joystick monthly.

Many folks completely ignore the loader for months (one friend I have in lou-easy—anna has never greased his 20 yr old Kubota and it squeals at each joint when he uses it. Without telling him I greased it six months ago and he hasn’t even noticed the squealing has stopped.)

WD-40 evaporates very quickly,..... at a rate similar to kerosene.
It will provide minimum lubrication for maybe 10 minutes, but certainly not for ten hours.
Simply not even a marginally appropriate lubrication for anything tractor.
It has been hype marketed as a cure for every ill known to man.

 

[Bark]

Thanks for the input guys. I probably should not have used WD40 as an example of spray on lubricant (but it does have some good lubricating properties for certain things).
Trapper Bob: I initially thought the same thing but realized the manual I am using is strictly for the LA765 FEL so would not cover the 3pt.
Bmyers: I have tried lifting my shroud but it feels like it is bolted on from underneath. There are five bolts on the plate covering the bottom I may try taking out to see what I can see.
GeoHorn: Said " “What do they mean by Ten Hours?” Are they talking ten hrs of TRACTOR USE..?? or LOADER use…??" I took it to mean 10 hours of Loader use which is hard to estimate sometimes but I could be wrong,
O3JP: I agree with what Bmyers said responding to your question about grease. Also, something weird happened to a brand new tube of the black stuff that I opened last July. It had separated from the heat (the shed where I store that stuff gets hot inside). When I opened it part of it just ran out. The stuff left behind was like peanut butter.

 

[O3JP]

Thank you bmyers. I’ll stick with the moly.
At 12 hours (directly after getting tractor home), I read the manuals and began doing some PM lubrication duties. Most items looked good except there was very little lube at FEL bearings, and some areas of the three point needed attention.
I’m going a little off topic and not addressing the original question……sorry Bark…..but
Now at 22 hrs, I went back over the daily check items and PM items. Nothing mentioned about checking the front axle oil…only oil replacement. I thought about the front axle oil when I was lubing the support, so I had a look. The front axle had NO visible oil. I added four quarts of UDT2. I can see the level coming up (looking down the fill port), but still nothing out the level port. I am guessing about another quart or two is needed….heading out now to get more UDT. At 6.9 qts capacity, I might had had only about 15% oil fill. Hopefully no damage has occurred!! If I was a Kubota exec, there would be a meeting with the dealer regarding professional equipment delivery practices. #$&%# !!!

 

[Bmyers]

Thank you bmyers. I’ll stick with the moly.
At 12 hours (directly after getting tractor home), I read the manuals and began doing some PM lubrication duties. Most items looked good except there was very little lube at FEL bearings, and some areas of the three point needed attention.
I’m going a little off topic and not addressing the original question……sorry Bark…..but
Now at 22 hrs, I went back over the daily check items and PM items. Nothing mentioned about checking the front axle oil…only oil replacement. I thought about the front axle oil when I was lubing the support, so I had a look. The front axle had NO visible oil. I added four quarts of UDT2. I can see the level coming up (looking down the fill port), but still nothing out the level port. I am guessing about another quart or two is needed….heading out now to get more UDT. At 6.9 qts capacity, I might had had only about 15% oil fill. Hopefully no damage has occurred!! If I was a Kubota exec, there would be a meeting with the dealer regarding professional equipment delivery practices. #$&%# !!!

Sadly, the front axle missing/low fluid is a common thread.

 

[ken erickson]

"I have tried lifting my shroud but it feels like it is bolted on from underneath. There are five bolts on the plate covering the bottom I may try taking out to see what I can see."

After looking at the parts list for your loader control stick and valve I believe it to be the same as whats on my LA525 loader on my L2501. Only three of the bolts ( part 290) hold the cover on. The other two bolts hold the valve body to the plate. When I lube mine I remove the 3 bolts , detach the rubber dust cover and then slide up the cover. The lock lever handle gives some trouble but the plastic on mine is flexible enough I can pull the cover up leaving the knob in place. I wipe off as much dust as possible and then a small drop of oil on the heim joint and other pivot points. I must admit I do not lube every ten hours like the rest of the loader grease zirks but perhaps 30 hours.

 

[fried1765]

I feel your pain. My manual states to use MP and later is states to use Molly EP. My take away, just make sure it is greased. Molly is preferred, but MP will work. (I use Polyurea grease (MP). )

View attachment 88974
30 pages later it states this

View attachment 88975

You have it absolutely correct!
GREASE is most important!
The flavor......not so much!

 

[Bark]

"I have tried lifting my shroud but it feels like it is bolted on from underneath. There are five bolts on the plate covering the bottom I may try taking out to see what I can see."

After looking at the parts list for your loader control stick and valve I believe it to be the same as whats on my LA525 loader on my L2501. Only three of the bolts ( part 290) hold the cover on. The other two bolts hold the valve body to the plate. When I lube mine I remove the 3 bolts , detach the rubber dust cover and then slide up the cover. The lock lever handle gives some trouble but the plastic on mine is flexible enough I can pull the cover up leaving the knob in place. I wipe off as much dust as possible and then a small drop of oil on the heim joint and other pivot points. I must admit I do not lube every ten hours like the rest of the loader grease zirks but perhaps 30 hours.

Thanks. I was worried about taking out all five bolts because I figured some of them held the valve body on. I will try screwing it up tomorrow.

 

[ken erickson]

Thanks. I was worried about taking out all five bolts because I figured some of them held the valve body on. I will try screwing it up tomorrow.

Please do not quote me on this, but If memory serves the 3 bolts that hold the cover on have a smaller head size than the 2 that hold the valve body on.

If you go to the Messick's parts they have a picture of the underside of the cover showing the boss's and threaded inserts that accept the 3 cover bolts. This should give you a great idea of which three bolts to remove. I would post the picture but it is a Messick's copyrighted picture so not sure of the legality of posting here.

 

[fried1765]

Please do not quote me on this, but If memory serves the 3 bolts that hold the cover on have a smaller head size than the 2 that hold the valve body on.

If you go to the Messick's parts they have a picture of the underside of the cover showing the boss's and threaded inserts that accept the 3 cover bolts. This should give you a great idea of which three bolts to remove. I would post the picture but it is a Messick's copyrighted picture so not sure of the legality of posting here.

Are you really afraid that Messick's would come after you for posting their tractor parts picture?
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