Just picked my new to me MX5100HST yesterday and now looking for a bush hog. I was thinking of a 6' cut but my brother in law recommended a 7' because since it sticks out width wise you can get closer to fences and such. I measured the rear tire stance and it is right about 6' . Any thought on this idea? To me a 7' bush hog seems massively heavy and is probably at least 9' long. Also these thing get right up there in price so it would be nice to find a good used one. In looking at used ones (or even new ones for that matter) what should I look for? If it does not have a slip clutch then is that easily added? Are they universal? I saw one at Rural King the other day and I think it about $120. In looking at the new models I see that many manufacturers (at least when looking at the 6'ers) offer different diameter cutting capacities. Some are 1", 2" or 3". I even ran across one that was 4". Crazy. What are the disadvantages to a larger capacity? More expensive and more weight? More HP requirements?
Rotary Cutter for MX5100
- Thread starter Shanester
- Start date
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
If you have the owners manual it will give you the size of cutter for your tractor.
There are a lot of things that should go into your decision. How much are you going to mow? And how often? I would not want a large single spindle mower more then 6 foot.. Look for a twin spindle for a large mower. The length of the mower gives you problems as you cross ditches and holes. The length is also a problem if you plan on loading the machine onto a trailer. You need more trailer.
The cutting capacity is a way of determining the mower you want. Larger capacity means more weight and a stronger gearbox in most cases. The cost goes up as well. If you are mowing pasture fields and mow more then once every year or two the lighter mowers will last a long time, thus save you money.
Most of the machines will come with a slip clutch. Remember to "slip test" it before you mow each year. There is nothing wrong with a shear pin mower. Other than make sure you have extra shear pins and the tools to change it when it breaks.
I was fortunate and found a Rhino TW 96. It is 8 foot with 2 spindles and a hydraulic offset. It has worked well for me.
There are a lot of things that should go into your decision. How much are you going to mow? And how often? I would not want a large single spindle mower more then 6 foot.. Look for a twin spindle for a large mower. The length of the mower gives you problems as you cross ditches and holes. The length is also a problem if you plan on loading the machine onto a trailer. You need more trailer.
The cutting capacity is a way of determining the mower you want. Larger capacity means more weight and a stronger gearbox in most cases. The cost goes up as well. If you are mowing pasture fields and mow more then once every year or two the lighter mowers will last a long time, thus save you money.
Most of the machines will come with a slip clutch. Remember to "slip test" it before you mow each year. There is nothing wrong with a shear pin mower. Other than make sure you have extra shear pins and the tools to change it when it breaks.
I was fortunate and found a Rhino TW 96. It is 8 foot with 2 spindles and a hydraulic offset. It has worked well for me.
I agree with BigG regarding the recommendations in the Operator's Manual. In this regard, tractor manufacturers recommendations are much more authoritative than are implement manufacturers recommendations for multiple reasons.
As always, sizing a cutter depends mostly upon what one intends to cut, how quickly one hopes to travel while cutting and terrain.
Your MX5100 has adequate PTO HP to handle a 6' rotary cutter in nearly all conditions.
I have owned and operated numerous rotary cutter/tractor combinations in both moderate and severe conditions. I use a HD 6' cutter with my 53 PTO HP L6060 and know from experience that it is all she wants in some of the situations wherein I find myself. Keep in mind that heavy grass requires MUCH more PTO HP than does tall weeds/brush even if your mower is properly set up. Also, cutting height makes a huge difference in HP requirement. I cut close, skid rails sometimes scraping the ground. Doing so requires much more HP in heavy grass than cutting the same cover at 6".
From experience, I do not like 7' single spindle cutters due to interrelated length/weight issues as well as maneuverability. Rather, I prefer light/moderate weight twin spindle 8' cutters due to reduced length and similar HP requirements.
Without knowing more of your specific conditions, I recommend a 6' cutter for your MX5100. If conditions are light/moderate, an 8' twin spindle cutter that is not too heavy will allow you to cover more ground and also allow cutting well beyond tire tracks.
I'm not a great fan of slip clutches for multiple reasons. That said, if you want a cutter with a slip clutch get one with a factory installed slip clutch and save yourself headaches.
SDT
I have a Land Pride RCD1884 7 foot twin spindle and I really like it. It only sticks out 80" from the 3PH so it doesn't have much tail swing when turning.
Last edited:
At first glance that looks like what I want and really like the offset concept. In searching for a price online I only saw one listing for $5,335. Is that a typical price?
I am leaning towards a middle of the road 6'er. One with 2" cutting capacity so it should not be too heavy. I have found some that have chains in the front, chains in the front and rear and ones with no chains. Of course no chains are less money. The 4'er that I was using had chains front and rear. How important are chains? Can they be added if I can't find one with chains? They look like a bolt on kit. Woods charges about a total of $300 more for both front and rear chains. If buying a new cutter should I be looking at another brand besides Woods or Land Pride? Bush Hog brand?
I use chains on the rear and belting on the front of all of my three point mounted cutters.
Front chains allow much more debris to be thrown onto the back of the tractor for my liking.
SDT
Slip clutches need to be properly adjusted to the tractor (not mower) for proper protection. Your dealer will not do this for you and almost no one else does.
Slip clutches need to be loosened and slipped annually in order to prevent corrosion lock. Almost no one does this.
Cost.
SDT
I wrote this yesterday, but failed to send it, so it's a little out of sequence 
. A 7 or 8' twin spindle would probably work well, if your land is fairly flat (even, not necessarily level), but they are pricey. BTW, we have a Bush Hog 286 and I think it's fairly equivalent to the LP RCR1872.
I'm with BigG (BTW, because of him, I had to find a new user name when I joined here. I'm BigG on another forum ). Like he said, the owner's manual will recommend maximum size and weight - consider both.
I've used a Land Pride RCR1884 (7' single spindle medium duty) behind an M7040 on level ground and it was fine. But behind an MX with your land, as I understand it, I think it would be too much. We have a 6' Bush Hog on the Ford and it's all it needs. Granted, it's 2WD and has no loader so it was kind of light on the front until we added some weights. But that extra weight and length is significant. Good luck.
. A 7 or 8' twin spindle would probably work well, if your land is fairly flat (even, not necessarily level), but they are pricey. BTW, we have a Bush Hog 286 and I think it's fairly equivalent to the LP RCR1872.I'm with BigG (BTW, because of him, I had to find a new user name when I joined here. I'm BigG on another forum
). Like he said, the owner's manual will recommend maximum size and weight - consider both.I've used a Land Pride RCR1884 (7' single spindle medium duty) behind an M7040 on level ground and it was fine. But behind an MX with your land, as I understand it, I think it would be too much. We have a 6' Bush Hog on the Ford and it's all it needs. Granted, it's 2WD and has no loader so it was kind of light on the front until we added some weights. But that extra weight and length is significant. Good luck.
Unless things have changed in theh last year or two, they do not.
If I was a manufacturer of slip clutches, I would avoid this can of worms like the plague.
SDT, who is a recovering attorney who knows how tort law works
Good advise, PoTree.I wrote this yesterday, but failed to send it, so it's a little out of sequence
I'm with BigG (BTW, because of him, I had to find a new user name when I joined here. I'm BigG on another forum
I've used a Land Pride RCR1884 (7' single spindle medium duty) behind an M7040 on level ground and it was fine. But behind an MX with your land, as I understand it, I think it would be too much. We have a 6' Bush Hog on the Ford and it's all it needs. Granted, it's 2WD and has no loader so it was kind of light on the front until we added some weights. But that extra weight and length is significant. Good luck.
SDT
I found an almost brand new Land Pride 1872 with slip clutch for $2,200. Just so you know the manual shows four different settings for the clutch springs depending on the mower model and driveshaft installed. The settings are for different length of spring compression. Also it recommends that the clutch bolts be loosened by two turns and then run the mower twice for 3 seconds each to slip the clutches. Then tighten them back to spec. This procedure is for new clutches and if setting unused for a long period of time.
Is that your final offer?
Maybe it was not clear but I bought it and mowed with it for about three minutes in the dark tonight.
I'm still confused about a few things about the toggle part of the mower for the top link. This is the fourth mower I have used over the years but I think only two had this feature. I believe I understand the concept. The top link is slack and the front and rear height are controlled by the lower lift arms and rear wheel. Then you go over a hill and the slack in the top link allows the rear wheel to stay on the ground keeping proper cutting height. The issue I have is that there is not enough slack available to both maintain proper cutting height and be able to lift it high enough to drive around when not mowing and not bang the wheel on the ground. Maybe my problem is with the land. LOL. I had the same problem with the little John Deere and its 4' mower. It would only lift the wheel off the ground a foot when the lift arm handle handle is pulled all the way up. If I'm mowing at lets say 4" high (that's about as low as I want to go) and hit a rock then I like to reach over and pull the height to its highest position to get the blades off of it. If I didn't have an issue with hitting a rock sometimes then I would just disconnect the top link until I'm done mowing. What am I doing wrong here? Is this a time when a hydraulic top link would come in handy?