ZG227 won’t charge battery

JRAY

New member

Equipment
B2620. ZG227
Aug 10, 2018
5
0
0
Southern Illinois
Hello, I have a ZG227 that won’t charge the battery. I had this issue a month ago and couldn’t get much help through my dealer. I troubleshot as best I could and thought the regulator was the problem. It’s started fine sense I changed it until today. I’m charging the battery now so I can load test it. The battery has only been in service for two months. Is there anyway to troubleshoot the regulator? Is there anything else to check or test? I really like this mower and had planned on keeping it for a few more years. It’s only got 500 hours on it. Thanks for any help !
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,465
2,161
113
Mid, South, USA
There is a test for the reg/rectifier but it's not a reliable test using an ohm meter.

It's easier to test AROUND the reg. IOW, remove the connector from the regulator/rectifier assembly, then probe the connector & test the 2 blue wires for AC voltage (should be 24v or higher at high idle, and typically a working stator will put out 50+ volts AC). Make sure your volt meter is set to AC volts when testing the stator output and measure between the two wires of the same color, NOT between each and ground.

Now switch it back to DC volts. There are other wires in the regulator connector. The black wire is ground. Measure between it and battery negative terminal (should be zero ohm resistance). Then you have one that goes to the "battery" (actually the starter) and it should show battery voltage between that wire and battery negative. Then you'll also have an ignition wire, comes from the ignition switch, should be +12v with the key on. If any of those aren't correct, you have a wiring issue somewhere or your test is improper.

If all that's ok, then yes, the regulator is likely "bad". Usually I see stators as the most common failure point, though. The 2 blue wires as I recall. Again, AC voltage-and it needs to be more than 24v between those two wires.
 

JRAY

New member

Equipment
B2620. ZG227
Aug 10, 2018
5
0
0
Southern Illinois
Lug bolt, I had time tonight to troubleshoot my mower using your methods. I have no AC voltage between my two blue wires. I do have all the 12DC volts in other points on plug. I think it’s time to order a stator and pull the motor. Anything else I need to do while I have motor out of frame?
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,257
1,043
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Lug bolt, I had time tonight to troubleshoot my mower using your methods. I have no AC voltage between my two blue wires. I do have all the 12DC volts in other points on plug. I think it’s time to order a stator and pull the motor. Anything else I need to do while I have motor out of frame?
Using the ohms scale check to see if their is an electrical path from one of the blue wires to the other.

It is an unusual part to fail unless you have been adding lighting, charging or boosting battery.

Should be able to remove stator with engine in place

Dave
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,465
2,161
113
Mid, South, USA
Using the ohms scale check to see if their is an electrical path from one of the blue wires to the other.

It is an unusual part to fail unless you have been adding lighting, charging or boosting battery.

Should be able to remove stator with engine in place

Dave
No. Stator comes out the front of the engine, and the front of the engine is up against the firewall, and then the drive shaft is in the way. Easier to just pull the motor.

Not much else up on the front to worry with. Replace the stator and go with it. Might look at the magnets on the flywheel while it's off.

And while it's not a common failure point on these, it does happen more often than I want it to. Takes me about 4 hours start to finish-including getting the tools out and putting them back.