ZD1211 Deck Issues

[r2heisch]

Hello all-

I purchased a new ZD1211 this year from our local Kubota dealership with the RCK60P deck. I began to notice an uneven cut where there appears to be a slight ledge left after mowing. This ledge appears on both level and hilly surfaces, and appears to be being left from the middle of my deck. So thinking that maybe I just needed to level the deck, I broke out the owner's manual and began to do so. I even purchased a nice metal blade-height leveling gauge since it's so difficult to measure the left side. I had a very difficult time trying to get it leveled. I would get it fairly close left to right, but when I would start on the front to back, it seemed to cause the left to right to get off again. I even purchased longer leveling bolts since I ran would run out of adjustment. The longer bolts seemed to help, but never could get the blades perfectly within the suggested 1/8" tolerance. Also I noticed that my middle blade did not track perfectly with my side blades, as much as 1/4" difference at one side.

So I loaded it up and took it to the dealership. After 2 days they called me back and told me that they could not find any problems with the deck, that it was only slightly out of level and they corrected that. I went to the dealership to pick up the mower and spoke to the technician while I was there.

1) I asked him how they level a deck and he stated that he gets a 2x4 as a gauge and levels the deck with that, as there is no need to check level on the blades. I explained to him that the manual indicates to level the blades and that I used my leveler gauge. He appeared to not know what a leveler gauge was.
2) I showed him that the middle and side blades were tracking 1/4" off. He stated that this would not leave a noticeable cut issue. He also apparently wasn't aware that the blades need to be set slightly lower in the front.

Since he claims that he leveled the deck, I decided to pick up the mower tomorrow and give it a try. I fully expect to be returning to the dealership in the spring with the same issue.

Sorry for the long story, here are my questions -

1) Are they correct that a 1/4" tracking variance from the middle to side blade would not be noticeable?
2) If the tracking issue is a problem, would that possibly be a spindle out of whack or warped deck?

Thanks! Any and all thoughts appreciated...

 

[lugbolt]

I notice 1/8" much less 1/4 but I am picky, and my yard is weird like that.

Most folks don't notice it.

Yes if you get it level side to side and front to rear, it'll cut great. 1/4" low in front reduces the amount of power that it takes to cut, which reduces your travel/mowing speed (you gotta slow down a little) but the cut quality is generally better. With it being raked downward in front, you'll typically get three 20" wide stripes, with it as close to zero as you can get, you'll usually get one 60" wide stripe. That is always my goal, perfection. I'm a mower guy at heart and take cut quality seriously.


Generally on that complaint I'll take the deck out and then flip it over. Turn the blades so that the tips are as close as you can get to each other (LH blade close to the center, then repeat for RH blade. If the blade tips are not within 1/8" of each other, you either have a bent blade, or a bent (or mismanufactured) deck. check both sides. They need to be zero with each other.

Then the blades themselves. Are the tips perfectly squared off at the corners? Sharp? If they are rounded on the corners, at all, they will leave a gap of uncut grass between blades. Replace them if they are worn like this. The corners where the cutting edge meets the sides of the blade must be sharp.

Also the spindles. Are the bearings tight? If not, there is part of you cut quality issue. Remedy them if they have ANY looseness (you may have to take the belt off to inspect the bearings).

If the blades are square, sharp, great shape, not bent then you can reinstall and level the deck. Because of the complexity of Kubota's attaching hardware "system", refer to the parts breakdown for the correct order of parts. This is especially true on the ZD1200 decks, more parts. As if they could get any more complicated.

Yes I always level them with the blades, not on the shell. I've had too many shells be a little "off" in relation to the deck-sometimes they're designed that way on purpose.

now for the elementary stuff. When mowing, the throttle MUST be at FULL THROTTLE. Half or 3/4 will negatively affect cut quality. Also, it's always wise to change directions each mowing cycle. In other words if you mow in the same directions all the time sometimes the yard will develop "a memory" and your cut quality will suffer. I made a lawn roller specifically for this purpose since the previous homeowner was set on mowing in circles only, the same every single time (OCD) and I had to level his "ruts" out. Rollers work good. Aint hard to make either. Big round concrete form, all-thread, a piece of plywood, 2 pillow blocks, four 1/2-20 lock nuts, 4 washers, and some type of pull behind frame. The heavier the better. Mine is 8" dia, total weight around 400lb, should have went bigger but it works. Additionally deck gauge wheels. The wheels do not need to be in constant contact with the ground, rather they should be 1/4" or so off the ground (see sticker on deck for guidance).

when you get everything right, these mowers cut superb-one of the better rotary cutters out there IMO. With the right knives, a flail will often cut a little better but they aren't to be in this discussion because you aren't dealing with a pull behind flail mower.

Are you mulching? If you have a mulch kit, all those suggestions are 100% true and even MORE important. The tolerances of your blade heights get narrower.

If this is a rear discharge deck, forget about cut quality, they just don't cut all that great in comparison to a side discharge (and people will argue that til they're blue in the face, but I've not seen a rear discharge that's any better than a side discharge).

hope it helps. Good luck.

 

[Daren Todd]

This is a dumb question but it needs to be asked.

Have you checked your tire pressures??

I ask this because many of us have come across this before. We notice it's mowing uneven or leaving a ridge.

So we spend extreme amounts of time trying to adjust the deck. Double and triple check it. Get back out and do a test run. And it's still doing the same bloody thing. Even with fresh blades.

Then one of your buddies mentions "hay!!! Have you checked your tire pressures????" And then the cussing and head slapping begins

 

[r2heisch]

I notice 1/8" much less 1/4 but I am picky, and my yard is weird like that.

Most folks don't notice it.

Yes if you get it level side to side and front to rear, it'll cut great. 1/4" low in front reduces the amount of power that it takes to cut, which reduces your travel/mowing speed (you gotta slow down a little) but the cut quality is generally better. With it being raked downward in front, you'll typically get three 20" wide stripes, with it as close to zero as you can get, you'll usually get one 60" wide stripe. That is always my goal, perfection. I'm a mower guy at heart and take cut quality seriously.


Generally on that complaint I'll take the deck out and then flip it over. Turn the blades so that the tips are as close as you can get to each other (LH blade close to the center, then repeat for RH blade. If the blade tips are not within 1/8" of each other, you either have a bent blade, or a bent (or mismanufactured) deck. check both sides. They need to be zero with each other.

Then the blades themselves. Are the tips perfectly squared off at the corners? Sharp? If they are rounded on the corners, at all, they will leave a gap of uncut grass between blades. Replace them if they are worn like this. The corners where the cutting edge meets the sides of the blade must be sharp.

Also the spindles. Are the bearings tight? If not, there is part of you cut quality issue. Remedy them if they have ANY looseness (you may have to take the belt off to inspect the bearings).

If the blades are square, sharp, great shape, not bent then you can reinstall and level the deck. Because of the complexity of Kubota's attaching hardware "system", refer to the parts breakdown for the correct order of parts. This is especially true on the ZD1200 decks, more parts. As if they could get any more complicated.

Yes I always level them with the blades, not on the shell. I've had too many shells be a little "off" in relation to the deck-sometimes they're designed that way on purpose.

now for the elementary stuff. When mowing, the throttle MUST be at FULL THROTTLE. Half or 3/4 will negatively affect cut quality. Also, it's always wise to change directions each mowing cycle. In other words if you mow in the same directions all the time sometimes the yard will develop "a memory" and your cut quality will suffer. I made a lawn roller specifically for this purpose since the previous homeowner was set on mowing in circles only, the same every single time (OCD) and I had to level his "ruts" out. Rollers work good. Aint hard to make either. Big round concrete form, all-thread, a piece of plywood, 2 pillow blocks, four 1/2-20 lock nuts, 4 washers, and some type of pull behind frame. The heavier the better. Mine is 8" dia, total weight around 400lb, should have went bigger but it works. Additionally deck gauge wheels. The wheels do not need to be in constant contact with the ground, rather they should be 1/4" or so off the ground (see sticker on deck for guidance).

when you get everything right, these mowers cut superb-one of the better rotary cutters out there IMO. With the right knives, a flail will often cut a little better but they aren't to be in this discussion because you aren't dealing with a pull behind flail mower.

Are you mulching? If you have a mulch kit, all those suggestions are 100% true and even MORE important. The tolerances of your blade heights get narrower.

If this is a rear discharge deck, forget about cut quality, they just don't cut all that great in comparison to a side discharge (and people will argue that til they're blue in the face, but I've not seen a rear discharge that's any better than a side discharge).

hope it helps. Good luck.

Thanks!! I’m glad that it’s not just me then and I’m not crazy. I’m confident now that the 1/4” difference where the right blade meets the middle blade is unacceptable. Hopefully my local dealership will acknowledge and remedy the situation.

 

[r2heisch]

This is a dumb question but it needs to be asked.

Have you checked your tire pressures??

I ask this because many of us have come across this before. We notice it's mowing uneven or leaving a ridge.

So we spend extreme amounts of time trying to adjust the deck. Double and triple check it. Get back out and do a test run. And it's still doing the same bloody thing. Even with fresh blades.

Then one of your buddies mentions "hay!!! Have you checked your tire pressures????" And then the cussing and head slapping begins

Yes, the tire pressure was the first thing that I checked. Thanks.

 

[oxfordbob]

The problem I have is a skunk stripe that aligns mostly with the right blade center on a 72-inch deck. Does having the output chute up or down affect the right side cut quality? Affect aerodynamics? It improves if I align the blades 90 degrees to each other, but not totally.

 

[HeartFixr]

I have a ZD1211 with a 72in deck that I cannot get level. Out of habit I was always stepping on the left side of the deck to get into the seat (I'm short) and recently noticed very poor cut quality. One side of the deck was 1in higher than the other and was impossible to level with the adjustment bolts. I'm thinking that I will need to drop the deck and inspect the attachment points to see if they can be adjusted. Any thoughts? Yes, I have equal tire pressure in the tires.