Been mowing my rough lawn too long, going to kill it with roundup and level it with my L3800. What attachment would do this the best?
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Yard leveling
- Thread starter budpat105
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depending on how rough a drag works well, I actually used an old metal queen size box spring. knocks off all the high spots and fills in the lows. If you disturb to much it will settle again, also dormant seeds will germinate when turned up growing whatever they were
Depending on how rough it is, I'd start out with a cultivator, and finish with a box scraper, or a rear blade. That is fine for most that own a wheel tractor. Me, I'd use tooth bucket, then landscape box then harley rake, all powered by my ASV RC 30...
CaveCreekRay
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Dittos to what both IP and Dave said.
In case you have access to a box leveler, you could try and drag the box around with the scarifiers down. My L3800 will pull the box with the teeth down pretty easily in loose decomposing granite that we have out here. Sod is a whole 'nuther beast. You may only be able to lower three or four rippers but after a few passes, you will have shredded the sod loose and should be able to dig easily into the earth. Once loose, raise the rippers and use the box to level out the soil.
One problem with "ripping" out the sod is you end up with a load of sod "husks" that screw up your leveling. As you till in sod residue, you set yourself up for bumps in the future. As that stuff decomposes, you'll end up with voids where the sod was and you may have to keep working it to get it flat.
Are you in an area where you could burn off the sod after you kill it? That would greatly help the new growth when planting time comes. And, it will reduce the amount of sod residue you have to drag about.
Just a thought...
Ray
In case you have access to a box leveler, you could try and drag the box around with the scarifiers down. My L3800 will pull the box with the teeth down pretty easily in loose decomposing granite that we have out here. Sod is a whole 'nuther beast. You may only be able to lower three or four rippers but after a few passes, you will have shredded the sod loose and should be able to dig easily into the earth. Once loose, raise the rippers and use the box to level out the soil.
One problem with "ripping" out the sod is you end up with a load of sod "husks" that screw up your leveling. As you till in sod residue, you set yourself up for bumps in the future. As that stuff decomposes, you'll end up with voids where the sod was and you may have to keep working it to get it flat.
Are you in an area where you could burn off the sod after you kill it? That would greatly help the new growth when planting time comes. And, it will reduce the amount of sod residue you have to drag about.
Just a thought...
Ray
North Idaho Wolfman
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If you want new lawn in there I wouldn't use Round up to kill it!
Just use a ripper teeth, disk, cultivator or rotor tiller to break it up then level and replant!
If you want a smooth lawn get a land plane to level it out.
Just use a ripper teeth, disk, cultivator or rotor tiller to break it up then level and replant!
If you want a smooth lawn get a land plane to level it out.
NIW, actually Roundup is a pretty good way to help in the grading process. It kills the sod, making the roots easier to pull up and redistribute. Roundup only kills what it touches, and has no soil residue problems.
I did what you want to do 2yrs. ago, first i cut it short then used roundup to kill it, I had a disc harrow to cut it up then used the tiller on it. I then used my harrows on it to level it every which way, I had to wait for rain to knock down the lumps. After the rain I dragged a piece of chain link fence over it and finally in late October I seeded it then used a roller to pack it down, the very next day it snowed so I never had to add a drop of water to it. The guy from the seed company suggested I used fertilizer as well we now have an acre of nice smooth lawn. By doing in the fall you don't have to water it but you have to wait as long as possible because he said if it starts to grow it will freeze and you'll have to replant.
Wbk and I followed roughly the same process except the disc harrow part.
Round up or startup has no residual issues. I had a field of alfalfa, clover ,broom grass and weeds. I cut it short as I could to try and kill the alfalfa, it helped but it's still there.
My BIL works for a bulk fertilizer company and sweeps up the spillage and I put it on my yard. Had so much on last winter it was glowing green in December! I either have burnt it or my bride is going to be spending a lot of time riding around on her JD anniversary gift!
Round up or startup has no residual issues. I had a field of alfalfa, clover ,broom grass and weeds. I cut it short as I could to try and kill the alfalfa, it helped but it's still there.
My BIL works for a bulk fertilizer company and sweeps up the spillage and I put it on my yard. Had so much on last winter it was glowing green in December! I either have burnt it or my bride is going to be spending a lot of time riding around on her JD anniversary gift!
I don't know of any "best" way but I went with a tiller for my similar project. Started last fall but intend to roundup in July with plans to begin tilling in August and planting in September. (Kentucky 31 fescue)
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Actually if you are gonna use Roundup, to burn out a lawn, do it when the grass is a little tall. RU is absorbed by only the leaves, and if you have cut most off, you don't get a good even kill...