Wix 51307 (for L2501) cut open

Philly20

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L2501 HST
Jan 5, 2016
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I know. The dreaded oil filter thread. This post is for scientific/ informational purposes only! Brand new Wix that crosses (per Wix) to the Kubota OEM engine oil filter for a L2501. 55 pleats in all. If you wondered what the inside construction is like in these, wonder no more. Again, this is not an endorsement for wix or a suggestion that you should use aftermarket over OEM.
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mcfarmall

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Kubota M5660SUHD, Farmall C
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It would be interesting if you cut open the Kubota filter to compare side by side.
 
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jimh406

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I don’t expect to change my oil that many times that the price difference could be worth it. Also, without testing it, you have no idea if it filters better/equal or not. I do know that lots of people have blamed oil filters for a lot of diesel damage on trucks, so it’s not worth it to me.
 
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mattwithcats

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Jun 17, 2017
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In that video, he is comparing the Kubota filter (HH150-323430) to a Fram PH6607 / Wix 51365...

Correct filter to compare to should be Fram PH7317 / Wix 51356...

Not sure why Fram and Wix have the wrong numbers....
 

GeoHorn

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I do not know of any filter OEM or otherwise...which will not run hot oil thru the media and return it to the sump.
I do not know of any healthy engine which will not run hot oil thru the filter on its’ way back to the sump.
The filter-quality question always seems to revolve around:
1-How efficient is the media (10 microns is typical of all media regardless of mfr’r)
2-How much junk the media will hold before media failure (closely related to total-area of media)
3-Whether or not an anti-drainback valve is incorporated (unimportant unless the filter is mounted open-end-down or horizontally... most Kubotas are hotizontal)
4-Cracking-pressure of the by-pass valve
5-Bursting-pressure of the canister.

I will postulate that ANY filter which has an anti-drainback feature will properly service a HEALTHY engine.... because a healthy engine will not be producing media-blocking Amounts of trash... and since media-blocking-amounts of trash are not being produced the media will not be overwhelmed, the by-pass valve will not be activated, the bursting pressure of the canister will not be exceeded, and the hot oil will properly pass-thru the media and return to the sump... exactly as it is supposed to do.

An UN-healthy engine will definitely benefit more with a higher-quality filter than a cheaper filter.... for the above-mentioned reasons.

If you have an old, nearly-on-its-deathbed engine you probably should be using only high-quality filters. However, when that trashy engine finally sheds it’s guts that filter is gonna jam and pass-along the trash to the sump regardless of what quality filter you have installed.

Still, I buy OEM-quality filters such as (first choice) OEM (Kubota in this case),.... (second-choice) Wix/NAPA,... (third choice) Luberfiner, etc etc. and I avoid Fram because they have documented-used cardboard-paper end-caps which quickly succumb to hot oil and shed paper-.particles into the oil-stream. I will use SuperTech/Purolater/Motorcraft on my lawnmower and generators but on my tractor and other expensive machinery I follow my suggestions in the first sentence of this paragraph....OEM.