Which model would you choose?

[WE349a]

Hey guys,

New member here. I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on my first tractor. I have two acres, all DG up in the Southern California mountains. My property is steep, fairly densely planted and has some boulders around. My main goal is to maintain my longish and very steep DG driveway which washes out pretty badly during rain. I might move some stone around, do some general grading and fix some erosion around the property. Light snow removal for the rare occasion we get some. Maybe 1-2 times a year and rarely more than 6” It’s high desert so no mowing. I have a few projects in mind such as grading a small pad. and, I just want a cool tractor!

I thought I had settled on a B2601 with a front loader and a box scraper. My local dealer suggested a L2501.
I’m open to comments and suggestions.

I’d also like to know if a box scraper would be the better choice vs a land plane. I’ll be filling ruts with the loader and then want to smooth things out. I don’t want to break up the packed down areas, its the only parts of my driveway that don’t wash down the mountain when it rains!

Thanks in advance!

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good day. I’ve not seen your property, or understand your meaning of steep…but when you say mountain I assume it’s the real deal…I have a steep back hill that makes a normal person in shape breath hard and sweat…my B does fine fine but depending on what doing PTO or hauling loader / trailer, the HST Boggs down a bit…I guess my point or thought is if you are only working the machine going downhill it’s probably fine, if planning to work it hard going up the hill, I’d be questioning whether the HST has the grunt or the traction you might need. IMO a B is really limited in traction(lack of weight). To me working uphill vs downhill are very different things and I’d want to figure that out before I buy a machine. I hope that helps.

 

[WE349a]

Thanks for the reply. The driveway is about an 11% angle (not sure what grade that would be) for half of it and much flatter as it goes alongside the house. I’d say about 75’ of it is at 11 degrees.
Good points- I would likely be dragging some dirt up that grade. I would be a bit fearful coming down with only rear brakes and a load up front. I can enter and exit from both ends so its up to me if I go up or down that grade.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Thanks for the reply. The driveway is about an 11% angle (not sure what grade that would be) for half of it and much flatter as it goes alongside the house. I’d say about 75’ of it is at 11 degrees.
Good points- I would likely be dragging some dirt up that grade. I would be a bit fearful coming down with only rear brakes and a load up front. I can enter and exit from both ends so its up to me if I go up or down that grade.

As a point of reference I live on an 11 % road myself and my back hill is steeper than the road.

whatever model you choose it would be an ounce of prevention to think about how best to ballast your machine for the different uses you will have.

 

[WE349a]

As a point of reference I live on an 11 degree road myself and my back hill is steeper than the road.

whatever model you choose it would be an ounce of prevention to think about how best to ballast your machine for the different uses you will have.

Thanks for the tip. The driveway is not my steepest hill by any stretch, I won’t be attempting driving on a good portion of my lot. Luckily I can access three sides of my land from the roadway. A lot of my work would be hauling dirt from the bottom of my property, driving on the roadway and dumping off on the driveway and other parts at the top end of the property. My driveway entrance is on the high side. Elevation is around 4400’ +/- at the driveway entrance and maybe 4320 +/- at the bottom of my lot 300’ away. I’ve been doing it manually for several years with my Canam. The last big downpour made me decide to get a tractor.

 

[Vlach7]

I'm in Frazier Park where are you located? If your close, I can show you what works on my dirt.

 

[airbiscuit]

I think you should look at the LX series. It might be Goldilocks for you.

 

[WE349a]

I'm in Frazier Park where are you located? If your close, I can show you what works on my dirt.

Thanks! Unfortunately, I’m around 175 miles from you. I’m South of the Coachella Valley.

 

[GrizBota]

I think either the B2601 or L2501 would work just fine for you. As to brakes, as long as you have it in 4WD, the front tires will help stop the tractor as it’s tied together with the rear brakes though the drivetrain. My gravel driveway has a 12% grade to in it at the steepest spot. My B climbs it just fine with the back blade engaged. Just put it in medium or low range and 4WD.

The L won’t have the mid PTO that the B or LX will have, so make sure you don’t want any implements that need a mid PTO.

DG, decomposed granite? Yup the stuff erodes like no one’s business once it’s been disturbed.

Enjoy the hunt. Regardless of what you get, with what you described, you’ll get ‘r done, B, LX or L. Heck some folks want an MX or MX or M just because. At the risk of torquing off the folks with BXs (since I realize they can do nearly everything), I’d steer away from that given it only has a low and high speed. For your steep ground, it’d always be in low.

 

[PaulL]

I'd say a B2601 is a bit light. At altitude a turbo would help. L is a great machine if you don't need a mid PTO, and not all that much more expensive than a B.

 

[will721]

At a steep grade pulling a box, I'd want the extra weight of an l or an lx. The lx is lighter and more expensive so unless ergonomics or a mid pto are a deal breaker I'd stick with the L. I doubt you'll need cruise control.

The only issue I could possibly see is the elevation. Depending on who you ask you're looking at a 3-5hp loss without a turbo. Which doesn't seem like alot but when you only have 25hp to work with it can be. Especially once upgrading the machine and adding all that weight. Heavy tractor + steep grades + dragging a box + elevation, could be an issue. If its in thr budget a bump in hp might be something to seriously consider.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

As you probably know, DG is great on flat ground, and slippery like snot if loose and wet on a grade.

My recommendation for mainly winter use:
L2502, stick shift, loader and box scraper.
Box scraper over a land plane. More usefull at different tasks.

If lots of summer use too: LX2610 with a cab.

That being said, it comes down to your money, the tractors usage in the heat, and overall comfort....

I think for what it sounds like you'll be doing, it will be used rarely and mostly in the winter time. With your location you might want to consider an LX with a cab. Depends on your age, wallet size and want of comfort. And how much you'll actually use it.

If it's going to be used in the summer, in your location south of Coachella valley, you'll want a cab for the AC. No, actually, you'll need a cab with AC. It gets hot as blazes out there. I've spent lots of time out that way years ago, and summer is no joke. 110 F degree days common. Even at elevation.

If a cab is not in your budget or a want, I think any of the compacts would do you well. You could do well with a sub compact BX too. Just take a bit longer. But a BX is not as cool looking as a B or larger If you want to impress yourself or the neighbors.

Actually your Can Am dragging some chainlink would do pretty good. But that's not as cool or capable as having your own Kubota!

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

both good machines. Couple different things to consider is how much time / space do you have to spend on given tasks and what type of quarters are you working with.

Adding a different perspective from my experience (and I have owned both the B26## and the L33##'s) is the L will complete most task with properly sized equipment anywhere from 50% - 100% faster. Is speed of project completion important?

Working inside buildings, around trees, around exterior of sheds, etc... the B's are much more manoeuvrable. How much is manoeuvrability / sight lines important to you?

 

[The Evil Twin]

11° or 11% grade? There is a huge difference. 11° is like the apron to a driveway.

 

[WE349a]

All great info and suggestions, thank you to all. The tightness of my property and the true number of days I’ll need to use it push me smaller, the steep driveway and heavy decomposing granite/boulders push me larger (and who doesn’t love big tires)
I’m going to take a look at my nearest dealer this afternoon, they don’t have a B series on hand, they do have a 2501. I realize now these are being phased out with the new 2502 replacing it. From YouTube videos, the 2501/2 look quite large. My neighbor here grades everyone’s driveways, he has a 3300(or 3310?) and he said the same thing about needing power to drag the steep driveway’s and of course the power loss with altitude is an issue.
We top out at just over 100F during a heatwave. A sunshade is a definite, a cab is out of the budget since I just don’t need to use it when the temps rise. I don’t see using it more than a dozen times a year since its just two acres and much of it inaccessible. A mid PTO is only interesting for eventual resale, I don’t see a use for it here. I do much prefer the B and LX driver’s platform/ergonomics based on videos.

 

[airbiscuit]

Your thought process seems good. If you can't get a cab, a canopy and a FAN is a good plan B. I like being out in the open air.

 

[ve9aa]

I think either the B2601 or L2501 would work just fine for you. As to brakes, as long as you have it in 4WD, the front tires will help stop the tractor as it’s tied together with the rear brakes though the drivetrain. My gravel driveway has a 12% grade to in it at the steepest spot. My B climbs it just fine with the back blade engaged. Just put it in medium or low range and 4WD.

The L won’t have the mid PTO that the B or LX will have, so make sure you don’t want any implements that need a mid PTO.

DG, decomposed granite? Yup the stuff erodes like no one’s business once it’s been disturbed.

Enjoy the hunt. Regardless of what you get, with what you described, you’ll get ‘r done, B, LX or L. Heck some folks want an MX or MX or M just because. At the risk of torquing off the folks with BXs (since I realize they can do nearly everything), I’d steer away from that given it only has a low and high speed. For your steep ground, it’d always be in low.

I loved this post (in bold particularly) ! The only thing that torques me off when folks smack-talk the BX is when they say it's "not a real tractor". I'll be the first one to agree that as tractors go, it's pretty dang small....but it is a real tractor. (I agree--it's probably not the OP's first choice)

For some of us though, it's all we want/(need).

Hagrid?

 

[Elliott in GA]

All great info and suggestions, thank you to all. The tightness of my property and the true number of days I’ll need to use it push me smaller, the steep driveway and heavy decomposing granite/boulders push me larger (and who doesn’t love big tires)
I’m going to take a look at my nearest dealer this afternoon, they don’t have a B series on hand, they do have a 2501. I realize now these are being phased out with the new 2502 replacing it. From YouTube videos, the 2501/2 look quite large. My neighbor here grades everyone’s driveways, he has a 3300(or 3310?) and he said the same thing about needing power to drag the steep driveway’s and of course the power loss with altitude is an issue.
We top out at just over 100F during a heatwave. A sunshade is a definite, a cab is out of the budget since I just don’t need to use it when the temps rise. I don’t see using it more than a dozen times a year since its just two acres and much of it inaccessible. A mid PTO is only interesting for eventual resale, I don’t see a use for it here. I do much prefer the B and LX driver’s platform/ergonomics based on videos.

Based on your post, you might want to look at the LX 2610SU. It has most of the LX comfort features, but it lacks: cruise control (can be added), the better seat (can be added), tilt steering wheel and Mid- PTO. However, it has a significantly lower price, and it comes standard with the larger tires (same size as L2501).

I use my LX 2610 SU to maintain my steep driveway. Drive to it (from the top) with a low held bucket of crusher run gravel. I dump the gravel and back up the hill, and I do this in layers moving up the driveway. Afterwards, I drive over the new gravel, and I drag it down the hill with my box blade. Between my ballasted tires and box blade on the whole time, tractor is very stable. I can drag gravel up the hill, but I rarely need to do it.

FWIW, I have graded three sites (30x30, 30x15 and 12x12 feet - each with a 1.5-2 foot slope) of hard red clay full of baseball to football size rocks with the LX's loader and the box blade. I highly recommend a Bosch rotary self-leveling laser kit.

Bosch 800 ft. Rotary Laser Level Complete Kit Self Leveling with Hard Carrying Case GRL 800-20 HVK - The Home Depot

The Bosch GRL800-20HVK Self-Leveling Rotary Laser Kit delivers all-in-one package for precise outdoor and indoor leveling. It features a horizontal/vertical self-leveling laser, suitable for leveling,

www.homedepot.com

 

[GrizBota]

I loved this post (in bold particularly) ! The only thing that torques me off when folks smack-talk the BX is when they say it's "not a real tractor". I'll be the first one to agree that as tractors go, it's pretty dang small....but it is a real tractor. (I agree--it's probably not the OP's first choice)

For some of us though, it's all we want/(need).

Hagrid?

For sure. The right tool for the right job. Some folks, if the only tool they have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

I’m involved with quite a lot with large scale construction and I have many times seen small firms truly believe that whatever equipment they happened to own at the time was the absolute best equipment to accomplish the job. I will say, using what you own might keep you from renting (or owning) what you should have. When time is money, it matters (but it can help a firm stay small time if that’s the goal).

But if a person is just kicking around with no real time frame or firm goal, sometimes that hammer will be sort of sufficient. Or maybe the tool they have is indeed the perfect tool for the limited scope they intend it to be used for, then they do have the right tool for their usage.

No more than I’d mow my lawn with an M would I consider a BX for a job that’s just right for an L. That’s just me.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I'm at 800 ft on flat land and I LOVE my 2501.....Great tractor!!!!

However at altitude, with what sounds like steep grades, I would be a little worried that you might need a little more oooomphhh than I do.

Sometimes dealers wanna sell you what they have in stock just to move product.

I'm not saying this is the case, but it's possible.

You might want to talk to your neighbor a little bit more too see what he recommends.

Paul