Greetings everyone. The injector pump was seized so I figured I needed to disassemble it. Unfortunately I had never done this before and I disturbed one of the screw settings. It's "C" in the photo I'll try to upload. When I started the engine after a rebuild it raced and wouldn't idle and in a panic I tried shutting it down. The fuel solenoid is working correctly but when I put the key in the off position nothing happened. I'm still in a panic hoping the engine wouldn't come apart. I moved the shutoff lever "B" to the off position and still nothing changed. I was finally able to shut off the fuel and the engine quit running. My question I guess is whether screw "C" has any effect on engine speed or the rack and shut off? I did a search here and didn't find anything I thought applied... I might be wrong. ( I took off the solenoid and when I move lever "B" I can feel movement of a part I have no idea of a name.)
V1505T injector pump adjustment screw? (update)
- Thread starter R.Smith
- Start date
kubota does not give any information on the stop screw adjustments. They don't give any information on the pump either. It's to be sent out for rebuild/repair by an authorized servicing/repair facility, for emissions purposes.
I've been down this road trying to build my own pump. No bueno. I don't have the tools to do it, but tried anyway-resulting in, a runaway. At that point I learned that the only way to shut it down is to (1) cut the fuel off (which takes a little bit), (2) cut off the air supply, or (3) let it kick a rod out. I learned lots of things that day and one of the things I learned was that if we are doing a fuel system or governor repair, to always keep something handy that will cut the air supply off to the engine, whether it be a book to throw over the turbo inlet or whatever. On a lot of tractors I left the air intake hose loose from the filter or turbocharger for this exact reason.
My coworker at the time was doing a 4440 JD pump repair and it ran away upon startup. Nothing handy to shut it down, it ran and ran until it finally just let go. That was a big mess that cost the shop a good bit of money.
I've been down this road trying to build my own pump. No bueno. I don't have the tools to do it, but tried anyway-resulting in, a runaway. At that point I learned that the only way to shut it down is to (1) cut the fuel off (which takes a little bit), (2) cut off the air supply, or (3) let it kick a rod out. I learned lots of things that day and one of the things I learned was that if we are doing a fuel system or governor repair, to always keep something handy that will cut the air supply off to the engine, whether it be a book to throw over the turbo inlet or whatever. On a lot of tractors I left the air intake hose loose from the filter or turbocharger for this exact reason.
My coworker at the time was doing a 4440 JD pump repair and it ran away upon startup. Nothing handy to shut it down, it ran and ran until it finally just let go. That was a big mess that cost the shop a good bit of money.
Thank you. If the repair manual for a similar pump is accurate I may have put the piston in 180 degrees from where it should have been. The manual says the engine would smoke badly and not shut off... which is what happens. But now I' not sure if the "piston" is the same as in my pump. I guess I'll just have to take the darn thing apart again.
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Sorry, not done injection pump disassembly other than replacing delivery valve holder O-rings on V1305
Why did the pump seize up in the first place?
Why did the pump seize up in the first place?
If I close my eyes, my story is exactly yours. Sent engine in for repair. Engineer desided to rebuild the Injector pump. At startup engin ran away. Stop solonoid an lever is correct, did nothing. Black smoke and extensive revs. This is on a L4630 V2203. Sure the fuel turrets are 180 degrees out my stop screw is also way out. Is there a way to see if those fuel turrets is reversed?
In another post I have ruger1980 said " Reference #5 shows the barrel and plunger assembly. I am not sure about the barrel but yes the plunger can be installed 180 degrees out. If this is done that injector will receive maximum fuel delivery and can cause the runaway condition. It also may not stop because that plunger scroll will not coincide with the inlet port when turned to the no fuel position. Basically that pump will deliver maximum fuel all the time to that injector. " This is for a V1505
Also I found another injection pump repair that is a little different for a D722 you might look at in case it's similar to yours. https://www.avantmachinery.shop/doc...NL/65136-kubota-d722-injector-pump-repair.pdf
Also I found another injection pump repair that is a little different for a D722 you might look at in case it's similar to yours. https://www.avantmachinery.shop/doc...NL/65136-kubota-d722-injector-pump-repair.pdf
Sounds like you got this all figured out already but item C in your picture adjusts the idle speed. Directly to the left of that below the fuel pipes is another screw with a protecting sleeve on it. That is the max fuel screw/smoke screw.
Thank you for verifying that. After taking the injector pump out a couple days ago I was thinking "C" "might" be something like that. Please however maybe tell me how "smoke" plays into this. Too much fuel and it won't burn everything? I haven't touched that screw so maybe it's adjusted right.
yeah that's your blow it up screw. If it runs good and builds some boost you probably don't want to mess with it. If you need more power you can add fuel which will add boost. Very reliable if you set it stock.