Tractorless! Help!

fried1765

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
130
68
28
Eastham, Ma
Something I can't BELIEVE I overlooked on this model. It does not have a quick detach bucket. Are there parts readily available to convert to a skid steer type bucket or are we talking custom work?
The bucket will need some custom adaptation, but you can buy a standard Q/A plate (about $300) for your loader.
You could also buy another bucket that is Q/A, rather than having your current bucket modified.
 
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PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
1,217
399
83
NZ
Modifying the bucket is relatively easy - cut off the current tabs, weld on a skid steer plate.

For the smaller tractors (thinking B2601 - my tractor) there is also a pin-on quick attach available. It's a custom Kubota part, but it allows you to quick attach a pin-on bucket without modifying it, and also weighs a bit less. Depends what you want the quick attach for. If you're like me and it's just forks and bucket, then maybe the pin-on quick attach is the way to go. If you want to be able to attach whatever your neighbours have, maybe forks, maybe a grapple etc etc, then go skid steer. And an MX isn't short of lift capacity anyway (for my B I save 20-30kg, which is 10% of my usable lift capacity.......assuming the damn part ever arrives).
 

PoTreeBoy

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
618
195
43
WestTn/NoMs
I was going to suggest ATI but I don't see your loader listed. Probably because SSQA was an option from Kubota. Looking on Messick's, it appears the bucket link is removed with the adapter?
You can probably order the adapter as whole goods from your dealer. Modifying your flat back bucket should be easy.
 

PoTreeBoy

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
618
195
43
WestTn/NoMs

Shanester

Member

Equipment
B7500HST MX5100HST
Sep 21, 2021
59
32
18
Ohio
Someday I want the quick attach but for now I will skip. The operator's manual states that this model weighs in at 3,774 lbs. The loader manual states its net weight is 1,322 lbs and the bucket is 322 lbs. So with the bucket on does it weigh 1,322 or 1,644? The number seems fishy. Another thing is that apparently Kubota changed how they name their loader models by the capacity. My LA844 has a full height capacity at pin of 2,443 lbs. (1,852 at 500mm forward) The LA1065 on the newer MXs is rated at 2,275 at pin and 1,691 at 500mm. Here I thought that I was getting a lesser capacity loader than the newer ones because of the lower model number. Turns out it is actually the other way around. The loader manual recommends getting wheel (or tire) ballast AND three point hitch ballast for good stability.
 

Shanester

Member

Equipment
B7500HST MX5100HST
Sep 21, 2021
59
32
18
Ohio
After mowing with the tractor for about five hours I now realize she is thirsty. It's really not surprising but it appears it is using over two gallons per hour. No big deal except is $3.70/gallon but the real issue is getting fuel into it. With the loader on the arms are really in the way pouring a five gallon can into it. I took the spout off the can and poured into a funnel but I have to lean over so far and it is hard on the back. Of course I got impatient and spilled some of that liquid gold. I'll try pouring from a different position next time. The filler is slightly offset to the right so maybe pouring from that side would a tad better. I'm not really excited about some type of gravity tank or drum there. I'm now estimating I'll use between 50-100 gallons per year and I'm afraid of the tank getting moisture or growing bacteria. Also there's no way a 60,000 lb fuel truck is going back there to fill and getting back out. My buddy suggested getting a 55 gallon drum, putting it in the back of my truck, filling it at the station and then transferring it into the gravity tank at the property. Sounds like a project to me although it might be less time in the long run. Plus it might be worth the time to go get off road diesel fuel for 55 gallons. There is a gas station on the way to the property I'm okay with filling two (or more if needed) 5 gallon cans on the way. I just need a better way to pour it in. Any suggestions?
 

Shanester

Member

Equipment
B7500HST MX5100HST
Sep 21, 2021
59
32
18
Ohio
Someday I would like to upgrade the seat on this MX. The John Deere 1025R I was using had a very nice seat but I'm guessing this one is not made to sit in all day. Is there a nice aftermarket seat that is comfortable enough for all day?
 

Shanester

Member

Equipment
B7500HST MX5100HST
Sep 21, 2021
59
32
18
Ohio
I really think this machine needs the tires ballasted. You really can't use the loader in two wheel drive. Is there a place you can get a heavier than washer fluid or methanol/water mix and do it yourself? The Rim Guard just seems kinda crazy priced at $700 ish dollars for just the rears but there is a big difference in weight.
 
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Shanester

Member

Equipment
B7500HST MX5100HST
Sep 21, 2021
59
32
18
Ohio
And another thing. Without the cruise control this thing would be terrible with that really light hydro pedal. The rough fields just make it hop up and down so much more until you get the cruise set. After 5 hours of mowing I still hate that design and I doubt I'll ever really get used to it. It sounds like I'm being harsh on the tractor but overall I really like it. Even though I am typically not a "deluxe" type of person this is more basic than I thought it would be compared to the 1025R. Just as a side note I hated those hydro pedals too but for a different reason. They seemed backwards to me.
 

BigG

Well-known member

Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
Sep 14, 2018
1,727
548
113
West Central,FL
After mowing with the tractor for about five hours I now realize she is thirsty. It's really not surprising but it appears it is using over two gallons per hour. No big deal except is $3.70/gallon but the real issue is getting fuel into it. With the loader on the arms are really in the way pouring a five gallon can into it. I took the spout off the can and poured into a funnel but I have to lean over so far and it is hard on the back. Of course I got impatient and spilled some of that liquid gold. I'll try pouring from a different position next time. The filler is slightly offset to the right so maybe pouring from that side would a tad better. I'm not really excited about some type of gravity tank or drum there. I'm now estimating I'll use between 50-100 gallons per year and I'm afraid of the tank getting moisture or growing bacteria. Also there's no way a 60,000 lb fuel truck is going back there to fill and getting back out. My buddy suggested getting a 55 gallon drum, putting it in the back of my truck, filling it at the station and then transferring it into the gravity tank at the property. Sounds like a project to me although it might be less time in the long run. Plus it might be worth the time to go get off road diesel fuel for 55 gallons. There is a gas station on the way to the property I'm okay with filling two (or more if needed) 5 gallon cans on the way. I just need a better way to pour it in. Any suggestions?
Make a little platform to sit on the FEL arms. A small piece of plywood and 2 pieces of 2 x 6. The 2 pieces will run parallel to the loader arms with the plywood will make the table top. Set the 5 gallon can on the table.

Then use one of the shaker siphon hoses to transfer the fuel.
 
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Matt Ellerbee

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
MX6000
Jun 27, 2019
661
538
93
Canton, Georgia
As for the rough ride, Check rear tire pressure. My rear ballasted tires I am right at 12-15 psi, maybe even 10, can't remember right off hand. Max on the front for loader work.
 
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NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, WC68 chipper, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen
Apr 27, 2020
733
611
93
Central Piedmont, NC
I’m not exactly sure where the fuel fill is on yours. When I got my L and saw the fuel fill in the center of the hood I was wishing it was on the fender like my brother’s JD as the fender mount at first appeared much more readily accessible.

In use, however mine is much better for the fuel can method. I climb to the operator station with a 6 gallon can, put the spout in the hole (using index finger as a valve to avoid spillage), rest the butt of the can on the cowling, and just have to keep it from sliding off sideways until the can is empty. The hood snd cowling support the weight of the can. (Upvote for steel hoods snd cowling.) Sometimes I let go of the can entirely and just let it sit while it empties. Pretty much the same process we use for the Farmall H and Ford 9N.

When I get too decrepit to do that, I suppose I’ll be looking for a transfer pump. My brother went to a 100 gallon fork pocketed cube with transfer pump because only way to fuel his fender mounted filler neck was to throw the can up on his shoulder. Not good.
 
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BobInSD

Active member

Equipment
L5740
Jun 23, 2020
208
40
28
South Dakota
I got it over to the "farm" and drove it around a good bit there. With no rear implement the back bounces up and down quite a bit in the rough fields. Because of that and the fact that the hydro pedal is so light and sensitive it makes the bouncing worse. If the pedal is all the way down or the cruise is set I don't notice it as much. I'm sure that putting fluid in the tires would help. What about installing a slightly stronger return spring on the pedal? It has very little resistance.
You can adjust the sensitivity and response on my 2012 L model. Might be worth checking out.
 

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
1,217
399
83
NZ
I have a 200L (55 Gal) tank that goes in my truck. Fill at the station, electric pump and hose on it. Either fill the tractor directly from it (means you have a diesel tank in your truck all the time, which would be annoying), or fill your gravity tank from it. I use mine to fill our heating oil tank every few weeks in winter. Works well enough, and the tank and pump were cheap (they're crappy ones ex China, but they work fine - main issue is that it leaks around the cap)
 
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Shanester

Member

Equipment
B7500HST MX5100HST
Sep 21, 2021
59
32
18
Ohio
You can adjust the sensitivity and response on my 2012 L model. Might be worth checking out.

What model? From what I understand the Grand models have the electronic hydrostat controls and they have all kinds of neat features. This one is all mechanical.
 

BobInSD

Active member

Equipment
L5740
Jun 23, 2020
208
40
28
South Dakota
What model? From what I understand the Grand models have the electronic hydrostat controls and they have all kinds of neat features. This one is all mechanical.
I guess they’re different. Mine is a lot more “drive by wire” than I’m comfortable with.
 
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ACDII

New member

Equipment
B2410, L352 Loader, Woods BH70-X backhoe
Oct 21, 2021
25
4
3
Illinois
I know exactly what you are going through!

My B2410 is exactly the same on rough ground, and my ground gets rougher every year. I am not sure if you have the treadle pedal that you rest the foot on, or the under deck treadle, which is what my B has, but I found a way to rest my foot so the bouncing doesn't affect the pedal. If you can, replace the seat with a suspension seat, your butt and back will thank you, and will make it less likely to jounce the treadle.

The MX has the same "type" HST as my B does, direct connection to the valve, so not much you can do to adjust sensitivity, it's just something that trial and error and time get over. I have an L4060 HSTC on order which is electronic controlled and probably less sensitive to bouncing, I hope. It also has a suspension seat, which will make it much easier on my back. Right now I have a 4' rough cutter on my B2410, and the L4060 would have no problem with a 6' deck on it.

With the market today, you might be able to sell your MX and get an L4060 or L6060 (IF you can find one) and not lose anything in the process, unlike a couple years ago. I think you might like it better than the traditional one you have now. Nothing wrong with the MX, but it is the Chevy version where the Grand L is the Cadilac version.
 
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jyoutz

Member

Equipment
Old JD, buying MX5400 soon
Jan 14, 2019
59
18
8
Edgewood, New Mexico
After mowing with the tractor for about five hours I now realize she is thirsty. It's really not surprising but it appears it is using over two gallons per hour. No big deal except is $3.70/gallon but the real issue is getting fuel into it. With the loader on the arms are really in the way pouring a five gallon can into it. I took the spout off the can and poured into a funnel but I have to lean over so far and it is hard on the back. Of course I got impatient and spilled some of that liquid gold. I'll try pouring from a different position next time. The filler is slightly offset to the right so maybe pouring from that side would a tad better. I'm not really excited about some type of gravity tank or drum there. I'm now estimating I'll use between 50-100 gallons per year and I'm afraid of the tank getting moisture or growing bacteria. Also there's no way a 60,000 lb fuel truck is going back there to fill and getting back out. My buddy suggested getting a 55 gallon drum, putting it in the back of my truck, filling it at the station and then transferring it into the gravity tank at the property. Sounds like a project to me although it might be less time in the long run. Plus it might be worth the time to go get off road diesel fuel for 55 gallons. There is a gas station on the way to the property I'm okay with filling two (or more if needed) 5 gallon cans on the way. I just need a better way to pour it in. Any suggestions?
I bought this. Fueling problem solved and it holds enough for three full tanks.

 
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NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, WC68 chipper, grapple, BB1572 box scrape, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen
Apr 27, 2020
733
611
93
Central Piedmont, NC
As for the rough ride, Check rear tire pressure. My rear ballasted tires I am right at 12-15 psi, maybe even 10, can't remember right off hand. Max on the front for loader work.
Same here. Mine beat me to death with the loaded R4’s set at 30 psi, which is where the dealer set them. Reducing to 15 psi made a better ride and better traction.

Don’t know if there’s any way to adjust the pedal sensitivity. I do know going forward over rough ground my heel is on the deck and my toe is on the pedal. Significant distance reverse, particularly over rough ground, my toe is on the deck and heel on the pedal. Only time my whole foot is in the pedal is doing quick forward/reverse over short distances. At least for me fine consistent control is much more difficult with my whole foot on the pedal.

It takes some getting used to. Right after I got the tractor I had 4 days straight of 12 hour days grading and rerocking our private road and driveways. At first it was awkward. After reshaping, reditching, and spreading about 170 tons of rock it was second nature. I don’t even think about it. The tractor just goes where I want at the speed I want regardless of how rough or smooth the ride is.
 
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