Too many choices

[Ricky D]

I moving to property in southern WA state, 3 acres will some small rolling hills. No big trees, some blackberries nestled in some low areas, planning for about an acre to keep up (mowing or just keeping the local vegetation at bay.

I also have an acre on the Hood Canal that I use for RV camping. Had an excavation company dress it out with gravel and dirt for upper pads and left the lower area wild. I has tall grasses and the like in the lower area. Some larges trees are felled on the lot that I will use for firewood. Flat terrain where I would need the tractor yet to be bought. I would use it on this property for mowing and moving wood around as needed.

So I'm thinking the tractor I buy will be used for mowing, some moving of dirt/gravel for final grooming on the new house property and moving and moving of wood/rocks on the smaller property.

I've already initially looked at the BX seriers and have just recently been looking at the B-series tractors (used). Looking for recommendations on what size to be serious about. Ask me more questions that may have the recommendations.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Bee-Positive]

Depends on your budget.

Can't go wrong with either the BX2680 or the B2601. I'd choose those based on the 19.5 PTO HP being the highest in each group.

The B2601 front loader will lift about 100 lbs. more than the BX, something you may consider depending on how much wood your using. My BX1880 has the same LA344 loader as the BX2680 and I wish it had the extra lift capacity, but I just eat the elephant one bite at a time so to speak.

You definitely want a 3rd function kit installed for the possibility of having a grapple or other front attachments for brush clearing, front snow blower and such. And maybe a pair of rear remotes if you plan on using a box blade or land plane for gravel maintenance.

Both tractor weigh roughly the same (plus or minus a couple hundred) so transporting them shouldn't be an issue.

I'd also stick with turf tires. Been really happy with mine since I don't do a lot work in the mud or woods.

I thought this was an interesting read:

Kubota BX vs B Series: Which Should You Buy? | Tractor Parts Central

BX or B series? Compare ground clearance, loader capacity, 3-pt lift, pricing, and real use cases. Choose the right Kubota compact tractor,

tractorpartscentral.com

 

[jimh406]

I would also consider the LX or L. Both have significantly more loader capacity that the BX or B2601. Besides lifting more weight, they can lift higher to put in a trailer, etc.

However, go watch Youtube channels. There are several channels and they each have different models, so you can see some real usage scenarios.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I like my L2501.

We only have 5 acres, and of that, about half is flat with grass and the other half is “Vietnam Jungle” thick with saplings and such.

I think it is very well sized, for our small property, but we don't have any fences or such, so “nimble’ness” is not of great concern.

The combination of loader capacity/price/looks and lack of emissions, all factored into my decision, and I would do it again in a heart beat. No regrets here

Good luck sir!


EDIT: I forgot to add that although it was not a concern when I was buying it, the L2501 is very “trailer’able”…..I often pull it home (4 hours) with no problems with the backhoe on it; However if you are going to get a Bush Hog (yes I know thats a brand name) you need at least a 20 foot trailer….maybe 22?

 

[CounterMeasure]

We live on 5 acres, and I had the same dilemma between a BX and B when we bought this land. Its a mix of rough untamed ground and mature hill country cedars, but about 1.5 acres of nice Zoysia yard around the house. I have an L2501 at our ranch property that is 400 acres, but I felt it was too much tractor for my house use. Plus I really liked the idea of a belly mower I can just leave attached when needed to do 3pt grader work here at home.

I ended up going with the B2601 because its a much more capable tractor for not much more in money or size. I have moved a lot of road base with it, and the belly mower works nicely on the Zoysia as well as the untamed stuff. I use the FEL to move the 22' vehicle box trailer around by the trailer tongue, and its just about at the limit of the FEL to do that. The BX wouldn't be able to do that. My only regret with it is going with turf tires. I didn't want to tear up the Zoysia grass, but the turf tires have so little traction. Now that I added a Z422 mower for the grass, I really wish I hadn't gone with turf tires.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Something to consider is trailering your tractor plus implements between your properties. Tow capacity of your vehicle, load capacity of your trailer.

With my old NH my full sized truck with an almost #8000 towing capacity which I wouldn't push that high due to the hilly terrain was a no go. BX, if I ever purchase a larger trailer (cheaper to rent) could be trailered.

A few things I miss downsizing to the BX are. Stability even with 2" spacers. Traction loss due to lighter weight. Positional 3 pt. Load capacity. Relatively low ground clearance. Added the BXepanded shield. A few things I don't miss are the high diesel consumption per hour of run time. The extra costs of maintenance. And the overkill for my needs. 40 hilly wooded acres with a +800ft driveway in Lake Effect snow country. Just need a small utility tractor for occasional trail maintenance, firewood, gravel driveway maintenance. Doubt if I will ever break 100 hrs/year seat time. Only 89 hours in the first 16 months of ownership.

Regarding stability . I would add wheel spacers to a BX or B. Some noted a mid mount mower and space issues with spacers. Just purchase a 3pt mower. Guessing easier to attach and remove if you have a 3pt quick hitch. Which along with Quick Attach loader I strongly recommend. My ~300# box blade stays attach for balance stability and traction when using the loader. If not, additional weight would be needed for grapple or loader work.

Like what seems to be most here at OTT. Grader scrapper over box blade for gravel driveway maintenance. Box scrapper was used in almost new condition at a fraction of the cost of GS. Otherwise I would have just purchased a GS. It would have stuck out further behind the tractor than the box scrapper if just using for ballast.

I have R4s. Traction is fine until the snow falls. Chain required. Even with the +300 mass of the 3pt snowblower. Some note that R14s have better traction in snow. But nothing has decent traction on real hard packed or ice covered surface going up or down any moderate pitch.

 

[nbryan]

These will do it for you (plus some, like always):
My signature, basically:

B2650HSD ROPS
BH77 backhoe 16" bucket mech. thumb
LA534A FEL 54" SSQA
Martatch 42" 1t pallet forks SSQA
B2782B front snow blower hyd. chute
WC68 Woodland Mills chipper
BB1560 box scraper
MaxxHaul 50039 3-Point trailer hitch adapter
Titan 3-point hitch subsoiler/ripper
Woods M5-4 rotary cutter
PJ 18' car hauler 7K dual axle trailer
Load Trail 5K single axle combo dumper

 

[Bearcatrp]

Nothing sucks more than your tractor cannot lift what you’re trying to lift. My 1880 can lift but smaller chunks. You can never have to much tractor. Another thing to consider is the hydraulic flow. Some implements require a higher rate of flow. A B series may work for you but a L or LX will do it better in a shorter period of time. Good luck on your decision.

 

[Shawn T. W]

Another thing to think about is ground clearance ... Mostly dependant on tire size ... And speaking of tire size ... Larger tires ride much more comfortable!

BX, B, LX, L, MX, M ... small to bigger ...