Tie Rods, Ends, & Boots

[HS2]

I have an M4700. The tie rod end boots on both sides have split. So has the boot on one of the tie rods.....

Nearest I can tell, the tie rods & ends are fine, but I know if I keep driving with broken boots they'll wear.

My question is how hard is it to change just the boot? I think I found some available......is it worth it to change just the boot, or should I go ahead and get a tie rod and tie rod end?

How difficult is this job? It looks easy, but I've never done it before.

Thanks

 

[200mph]

Check the tie-rod for play before changing out the boot. If there is play, buy the new tie-rod, but sit down before seeing the price (about $130).

If tie-rod is ok, it is generally more economical to replace the boot.

Good luck

 

[GeoHorn]

My M4700 has tie rod ends which are in good shape. (Only 500 hrs since new in 1996.). But, like yours, the boots were torn.

I didn’t want to go thru removing tie-rods and wheel alignment issues and I had some sheets of either Nitrile or EPDM (the latter is what the supplier claimed but it feels/looks like black rubber nitrile). This material was left-over from when I built my hangar-door and used long sheets of it for weatherseal on the door. (44’X14” length/width)

I cut squares of it, wrapped it around the tie-rods such that the edges over-lapped and allowed moisture (if any) to drain out the laps on the bottom, and sealed the ends using aircraft safety-wire twisted onto the ends of the “rolls” made by the rubber sheet. (You might also use durable ty-wraps but I preferred stainless steel wire.)

Two years later they are still in excellent shape, my tie-rods protected from dirt/water, and the lubrication/grease is retained where it belongs and I saved a bunch of money and time while getting the job done as well as the factory. I suspect the repair will outlast the original boots.

Hope this helps.

 

[GeoHorn]

I should add that material was acquired in 2000 and is still like new. I imagine you could use some rubber gasket material from the local auto-supply house. About 1/8” thick worked very well for me, winding a couple of wraps of wire onto the ends of the over-lapped rubber-sheet, and then twisting the wire in a pig-tail. This is not a high-tech need for a tractor, you only need to protect it from moisture.