Third function and rear remote install - did they do it right ?

[selftot]

The dealer installed the Land Pride 3rd function and some rear remotes on my L3400. I'm not sure if they did it correctly.

I am mainly concerned about the lack of separate PB / T feeds from rear remotes - although i dont understand why third functions get away with that too. Also i believe the relief valve is in the loader - so why put the 3rd function ahead of that.

This seems like duplicate questions to what others have asked but i cant get my head around it. On the plus side, i think my diagram is snazzy.

Thanks.

 

[selftot]

My answer that im looking for clarification...

I should add a PB sleeve to the rear remote. Then the outlet below should be tee'd into the tank line.

Move the third function so its between the loader and rear remotes.

 

[Russell King]

The third function and backhoe valves don’t need the PB sleeve. The rear remotes do usually need the tank return and a PB sleeve installed that is routed to the backhoe valve. The backhoe valve needs to be the last valve in that chain.

BUT I would ask the dealer why they didn’t install the PB sleeve. Perhaps it is internal somehow in the valve they used?

I think you need to move the three point valve to be between the backhoe and tractor block since that is technically the flow path. But I understand that you route the hoses as you have I drawn them and the three point is powered by internal passages in the tractor case. YouTube can just add a blue line from the three point hitch to the tank and that would make the snazzy diagram better!

The third function valve can be on either side of the FEL valve. I don’t remember the advantages of having it on one side or the other but there have been some discussions about that on here. As I think I recall it has to do with the valve priority (which one is the most important to move first since the valves will only work one at a time). But most people probably only activate one valve at a time and then activate the second valve after the first movement is complete.

 

[TheOldHokie]

My answer that im looking for clarification...

I should add a PB sleeve to the rear remote. Then the outlet below should be tee'd into the tank line.

Move the third function so its between the loader and rear remotes.

View attachment 173113

I doubt it. I dont see anything to indicate that valve is capable of power beyond. That port looks like its an alternste tank port.

Now lets back up a bit. Who supplied thst valve and what is the brand and model?

Dan

 

[selftot]

Dealer supplied valve.
There are no markings visible to see the brand / model.
I'll remove the bolts to see if its on the bottom.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dealer supplied valve.
There are no markings visible to see the brand / model.
I'll remove the bolts to see if its on the bottom.

Where is the valve mounted? I cant really tell from the pictures. Based on what I have seen so far I don't think the dealer knows what they are doing.

 

[selftot]

Where is the valve mounted? I cant really tell from the pictures. Based on what I have seen so far I don't think the dealer knows what they are doing.

There are no brand or model markings on the valve top /side/bottom. Just this.
It says: "15 GPM TWO SPOOL FLOAT. Serial No 2406171899"



Mounted here

 

[TheOldHokie]

There are no brand or model markings on the valve top /side/bottom. Just this.
It says: "15 GPM TWO SPOOL FLOAT. Serial No 2406171899"

View attachment 173122

Mounted here
View attachment 173123

I see your like me. That cup holder is great for nuts snd bolts;

Their install will work but it has problems.

1. The rear remote valve they used does not have a PB port and they are using the tank port for high pressure carry over to the backhoe and 3pt. That port is probably rated for a max of 500-600 PSI and is going to see 2500 PSI. I see blown seals in your future.
2. Putting the 3rd function ahead of the loader valve works but it can cause some unwelcome interaction with the boom and bucket. Thats easily chsnged if it becomes a problem.

At a minimum I would make my concerns about the lack of PB known to the dealer. Be prepared. You are probably going to get a bunch of BS hand waving in response.

Dan

 

[selftot]

There have been a lot of red flags for me from this dealer since they did that.

I guess i need to be more knowledgeable than they are when i go in tomorrow. But i have doubts that they will work on my equipment again.

Which seals exactly are at risk - the valve they installed ?

Is there something about what they did that would cause the hydraulic fluid to foam now? Or is that a whole different mistake? They adjusted the brake pedal so loose that it could contact the the suction line to the hydraulic pump. I dont see any damage to the hose.

So disappointing. I went there because i was not entirely comfortable doing some of this work. I should have just invested the time in educating myself.

 

[TheOldHokie]

There have been a lot of red flags for me from this dealer since they did that.

I guess i need to be more knowledgeable than they are when i go in tomorrow. But i have doubts that they will work on my equipment again.

Which seals exactly are at risk - the valve they installed ?

Is there something about what they did that would cause the hydraulic fluid to foam now? Or is that a whole different mistake? They adjusted the brake pedal so loose that it could contact the the suction line to the hydraulic pump. I dont see any damage to the hose.

So disappointing. I went there because i was not entirely comfortable doing some of this work. I should have just invested the time in educating myself.

A DIY install of that type is pretty darn easy.

The seals in question are the external ones where the spools enter and exit the casting. They seal against tank pressure which as I said earlier is supposed to be ~500 PSI max. When you back pressure the tank core to 2000+ PSI they frequently give up the ghost.

None of this should be creating excessive foam. A little foam is natural.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

I suggest that you try to find out what manufacturer made that valve when you talk to the dealer. Then you may be able to find some good information about it. But I am not that hopeful about finding information about it since they didn’t even cast identification into the case or put some tag on it.

You could easily replace that valve with a better one yourself!

 

[selftot]

Thanks guys.

It seems easy - now that i understand it. Not sure how a dealer can f it up.

I've never seen foam in the sightglass in 20 years. Now its bubbles and gets milky.

I guess i can replace the valve now or wait till it leaks...