SVL95-2, no power to ignition switch or cab. engine will not crank.
With the key "ON" there are no dash lights, no beeps and no buzzing. No start function. I have low voltage going to the fuses in the fuse box (test light is very dim). With the key off, and I press the horn button, the horn replay buzzes but no sound for the horn. I'm looking for wiring schematic for a SVL95-2.
UPDATE 9/26/23
Solution: Check your battery connections. The battery connector is a two bolt connector. One bolt connects the two bolt connector to the battery, the other bolt connects the wires eyelets to the two connector block. The wire eyelets have a "palladium nickel plating" on them, which makes any slight corrosion hard to see. Two of my wires eyelets were making contact but the third "middle" eyelet was not making a connection. When touching a test light, to the battery terminal, to the top eyelet or either bolts, the test light was illuminating although, when I touched an edge of each wire eyelet I discovered that the middle wire eyelet did not have continuity.
I disassembled the entire connection assembly and I used a piece of sand paper to clean all of the connectors and the wire eyelets. I reassemble, and now have power to the cab.
Important Side note:
There are two high amperage fuse blocks to the right of the battery. Each block contains three large fuses (40A to 60A). The wiring schematic designates these blocks as SBF#1 and SBF#2. In consideration of both fuse blocks: the center fuse can be removed with your fingers. The two outside fuses are held in with bolts.
The fuse block MUST be removed from the retaining bracket (2-10mm bolts on each block). After that, both "sides" of the fuse block will snap open and the bolts/nuts will be revealed. On one side the bolts are 9mm and the other are 10mm. Fuses range from $10-$30 each.
Important: Fuse block SBF#2 is powered by SBF #1. With the bolts removed and the wire disconnected from the fuse blocks, you will only have power to one of the 10ga wires going to SBF#2 (which is the positive coming from SBF#1). The other red 10ga wire goes to the alternator. The white/red wire coming from SBF#2 is the "Cab" main electrical feed and goes to the ignition switch ( Per the schematic). To confirm that you have power, you will need to put both fuse blocks back together (fuses in) and use a sharp tipped test light to penetrate the wires coming out of the bottom of the fuse block, checking for power.
I hope this post helps someone.
With the key "ON" there are no dash lights, no beeps and no buzzing. No start function. I have low voltage going to the fuses in the fuse box (test light is very dim). With the key off, and I press the horn button, the horn replay buzzes but no sound for the horn. I'm looking for wiring schematic for a SVL95-2.
UPDATE 9/26/23
Solution: Check your battery connections. The battery connector is a two bolt connector. One bolt connects the two bolt connector to the battery, the other bolt connects the wires eyelets to the two connector block. The wire eyelets have a "palladium nickel plating" on them, which makes any slight corrosion hard to see. Two of my wires eyelets were making contact but the third "middle" eyelet was not making a connection. When touching a test light, to the battery terminal, to the top eyelet or either bolts, the test light was illuminating although, when I touched an edge of each wire eyelet I discovered that the middle wire eyelet did not have continuity.
I disassembled the entire connection assembly and I used a piece of sand paper to clean all of the connectors and the wire eyelets. I reassemble, and now have power to the cab.
Important Side note:
There are two high amperage fuse blocks to the right of the battery. Each block contains three large fuses (40A to 60A). The wiring schematic designates these blocks as SBF#1 and SBF#2. In consideration of both fuse blocks: the center fuse can be removed with your fingers. The two outside fuses are held in with bolts.
The fuse block MUST be removed from the retaining bracket (2-10mm bolts on each block). After that, both "sides" of the fuse block will snap open and the bolts/nuts will be revealed. On one side the bolts are 9mm and the other are 10mm. Fuses range from $10-$30 each.
Important: Fuse block SBF#2 is powered by SBF #1. With the bolts removed and the wire disconnected from the fuse blocks, you will only have power to one of the 10ga wires going to SBF#2 (which is the positive coming from SBF#1). The other red 10ga wire goes to the alternator. The white/red wire coming from SBF#2 is the "Cab" main electrical feed and goes to the ignition switch ( Per the schematic). To confirm that you have power, you will need to put both fuse blocks back together (fuses in) and use a sharp tipped test light to penetrate the wires coming out of the bottom of the fuse block, checking for power.
I hope this post helps someone.
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