struggling

armdlo

New member

Equipment
C3130
Sep 13, 2025
6
2
3
Australia
Hi everyone, had my 3130HST for 20 years and today I noticed it was struggling to proceed on medium speed , it began labouring as if the brake was stuck on! It has an occasional ( suspected) bearing noise that increasing during the day. Could this could be the cause. I jacked it up but couldnt turn the wheel whilst in neutral, (although at that stage I hadnt depressed the clutch) the wheen moved as if it was still engaged I could feel the dif engaging
I had a large rock stuck under it for a bit but no visible damage . I noticiced a slight dint in a couple of hydraulic lines. Ive checked the brake rods all fine, It could be that the levers that pull the brakes on are at slightly different angles, one slightly forward. Could this indicate a brake stuck on.
Any ideas please

500 hours, havent changed the hydraulic oil for a bit, only hobby farm work, firewood, moving rocks, etc
 
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skeets

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BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
15,073
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Dumb question have you check fuel filter, and water collector
 
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old and tired

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Equipment
L2800 HST; 2005; R4
That's some pretty low hours, 25/year... I would treat the fuel with diesel fuel biocide and some diesel conditioner.... quick and easy to do (regular maintenance for me). To help rule out fuel issues.

The bearing noise is concerning... would you be doing the bearing job yourself??? Or take it to the dealer?? I ask because, if it were me, I would park it where I would work on it, drop the transmission fluid and see what it looks like.

If it's clear, and NO signs of problems, I might just re-fill and see how it drives... but if it's got metal / shiny parts to it... continue to tear into it. I only use Kubota SUTD2... hurts, price-wise but good for the next 20 years!! If it's milky colored, water got into it....

20 years is a long time for hydraulic fluid to be used, was the tractor garage kept or was it stored outdoors?? The bearing should not fail in 500 hours but if it got rained on, and rusted... I could see it failing that way.
 
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Fedup

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Apr 6, 2016
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Winchester
I would revisit the "rock stuck under it for a bit" experience for a possible related issue there. The "brake pedals at different angles" observation brings up the chance that one (or more) of the rods may be bent and one of the brakes is being partially applied? Might be worthwhile to pull some pins on the brake linkage to eliminate that possibility.
 
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Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
6,657
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Austin, Texas
You may want to look at those hydraulic lines to see how much they are dented. If they are limiting the flow they will require more horsepower to pump fluid and make the tractor seem weaker than normal. The hydraulic fluid and lines would probably get hotter than normal but you may not be able to tell if it is hotter than normal.

I installed rear remote valves on my older, smaller L185F and accidentally installed a restrictor fitting into the main outlet line from the pump. The engine was harder to start, sounded like it wanted to die at idle and would not run up to the same high engine RPMs. When using the tractor the hydraulic lines would be way too hot to touch which was never the case before. I investigated the situation and eventually found that orifice fitting in the wrong place (it was a 90 degree fitting so not easy to see it was restricted). Moved the fitting to the correct position and then all was back to normal.

Good luck!
 
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Fedup

Active member
Apr 6, 2016
323
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Winchester
You may want to look at those hydraulic lines to see how much they are dented. If they are limiting the flow they will require more horsepower to pump fluid and make the tractor seem weaker than normal. The hydraulic fluid and lines would probably get hotter than normal but you may not be able to tell if it is hotter than normal.

I installed rear remote valves on my older, smaller L185F and accidentally installed a restrictor fitting into the main outlet line from the pump. The engine was harder to start, sounded like it wanted to die at idle and would not run up to the same high engine RPMs. When using the tractor the hydraulic lines would be way too hot to touch which was never the case before. I investigated the situation and eventually found that orifice fitting in the wrong place (it was a 90 degree fitting so not easy to see it was restricted). Moved the fitting to the correct position and then all was back to normal.

Good luck!
If he jacked it and couldn't turn the wheel, how does that translate to a smashed hydraulic line?
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
6,657
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I noticiced a slight dint in a couple of hydraulic lines.
Any ideas please
If he jacked it and couldn't turn the wheel, how does that translate to a smashed hydraulic line?
He commented they were dinted. He stated tractor is struggling. He asked for ideas.

I have no clue if there would be anything that stopped the wheel from turning IF the hydrostatic system had some weird pressures or blockages but I am guessing that could be something that would make the hydrostatic system act oddly so I made a suggestion to be sure they weren’t collapsed more than he originally noticed.

Why does that bother you?
 
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armdlo

New member

Equipment
C3130
Sep 13, 2025
6
2
3
Australia
That's some pretty low hours, 25/year... I would treat the fuel with diesel fuel biocide and some diesel conditioner.... quick and easy to do (regular maintenance for me). To help rule out fuel issues.

The bearing noise is concerning... would you be doing the bearing job yourself??? Or take it to the dealer?? I ask because, if it were me, I would park it where I would work on it, drop the transmission fluid and see what it looks like.

If it's clear, and NO signs of problems, I might just re-fill and see how it drives... but if it's got metal / shiny parts to it... continue to tear into it. I only use Kubota SUTD2... hurts, price-wise but good for the next 20 years!! If it's milky colored, water got into it....

20 years is a long time for hydraulic fluid to be used, was the tractor garage kept or was it stored outdoors?? The bearing should not fail in 500 hours but if it got rained on, and rusted... I could see it failing that way.
Initially it was out in the weather over a couple of winters, Australia no snow, but last 18 years in the shed.Yep I will treat the diesel thanks for th advice. If its a bearing I will have to get the dealer to do it, bit to heavy for me. I will also drop the fluid from the rear and have a look.
 

armdlo

New member

Equipment
C3130
Sep 13, 2025
6
2
3
Australia
Perhaps someone can advise me, if I jack the wheel with the bearing noise and place the "gear" lever in neutral and lock the clutch down should I be able to freely rotate the wheel, ( the opposite wheel turned when I tried it) I presume it still turns the diff tho? When I previously tried this wheel it wouldnt turn, it would rock back and forward tho. I handnt locked the clutch down when I tried this first.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Clutch will have no bearing on it if you put the range lever in neutral.
Jack up both sides at once and each side should feel the same if either side does not spin freely it's more than likely a bearing or dragging brake issue.
 

armdlo

New member

Equipment
C3130
Sep 13, 2025
6
2
3
Australia
Clutch will have no bearing on it if you put the range lever in neutral.
Jack up both sides at once and each side should feel the same if either side does not spin freely it's more than likely a bearing or dragging brake issue.
Thankyou, yes jacked up again and it's jammed in place, brake levers don't appear to in different positions at the axle, collapsed bearing should make it spin easier perhaps ? Do these machines generally have jammed brake issues. I can't see any foreign objects that might be jammed anywhere. Thanks again, I will keep persevering.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
Since that tractor has very few hours, yet 20 years old, I'd drain ALL the diesel fuel out of the tank, clean the tank very well, then fill with fresh fuel. It's the only way you can be 100% sure there's NO 'junk' in the tank...diesel algae. black floaters, etc. Also clean out the fuel hoses, and new filters( AFTER cleaning the tank....)
 
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armdlo

New member

Equipment
C3130
Sep 13, 2025
6
2
3
Australia
well I have an admission to make, actual hours 1200, ( over 21 years) wheel is definately stuck, rocks backwards and forwards a 1/4 inch only, applying brakes to that tiny movement has no effect on the jacked wheel. Hoping this points something wrong with the brake mechanism. Fuel bowl was a bit junky so worth a clean. Filters and hydraulic fluid do need doing and I will bite the bullet and put genuine Kubota in, Im having the local dealer come and fix it. I will report back. Expecting $$$
 
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