snowblower wear edge

[Showmedata]

If this has been covered, somebody kindly link me. I searched and couldn't find this topic. I even looked through the monster "snow removal" sticky thread.

I run a 3ph-mounted Landpride snowblower. Purchased used, it didn't have any replaceable wear edge on it. I fashioned two additional mid-mounted skid shoes to make it work better on my dirt/gravel driveway. That was working pretty well, but last summer I got the driveway paved with asphalt. Any sort of shoe leaves an undesirable layer of snow that gets packed down and turns to ice, so I want the snowblower to scrape the asphalt with a continuous edge.

I know LP sells a replaceable hardened steel edge for this blower. $264 list price. Since so many people prefer plastic/polymer wear edges on their plows and back blades, I'm curious about going that route.

I picked up a strip of 1" thick x 6" wide PVC to fab a wear edge. Before sacrificing that pricey plastic, I am experimenting with a wooden edge made from a beveled 2x6.

This cleans the pavement pretty well, but seems like it causes the unit to plow more than it should - I guess because of the height. I usually get to the end of a run with a big pile of snow not fed into the auger (wetter snow = worse) that I have to clean up with the bucket.

So... have any of you wise folks experience with different snowblower cutting edges?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

It doesn't look like you adjusted the 'shoes' down when you added the new 'wear edge' ?
I put 1/4" plates under the wear edge, adjust shoes to touch the ground.
The angle of attack on the wear bar should be same as the original, yours looks 'steeper'. That would possibly cause it to 'ride up', not 'dig in'.

 

[Showmedata]

It doesn't look like you adjusted the 'shoes' down when you added the new 'wear edge' ?
I put 1/4" plates under the wear edge, adjust shoes to touch the ground.
The angle of attack on the wear bar should be same as the original, yours looks 'steeper'. That would possibly cause it to 'ride up', not 'dig in'.

I intentionally raised the shoes up so they're not touching - I want the wear strip to contact the ground along its full length so it scrapes the ground clear of snow.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

then you'll have to lessen the 'angle of attack' but that may not be possible as normally you can't adjust the 'tilt' of a front mounted snowblower, except by the shoes.

 

[mcmxi]

If this has been covered, somebody kindly link me. I searched and couldn't find this topic. I even looked through the monster "snow removal" sticky thread.

I run a 3ph-mounted Landpride snowblower. Purchased used, it didn't have any replaceable wear edge on it. I fashioned two additional mid-mounted skid shoes to make it work better on my dirt/gravel driveway. That was working pretty well, but last summer I got the driveway paved with asphalt. Any sort of shoe leaves an undesirable layer of snow that gets packed down and turns to ice, so I want the snowblower to scrape the asphalt with a continuous edge.

I know LP sells a replaceable hardened steel edge for this blower. $264 list price. Since so many people prefer plastic/polymer wear edges on their plows and back blades, I'm curious about going that route.

I picked up a strip of 1" thick x 6" wide PVC to fab a wear edge. Before sacrificing that pricey plastic, I am experimenting with a wooden edge made from a beveled 2x6.
View attachment 121356

This cleans the pavement pretty well, but seems like it causes the unit to plow more than it should - I guess because of the height. I usually get to the end of a run with a big pile of snow not fed into the auger (wetter snow = worse) that I have to clean up with the bucket.

So... have any of you wise folks experience with different snowblower cutting edges?

I bought a used Land Pride SB1574 a few years ago but it came with a steel cutting edge. The cutting edge is very thin and does a decent job on my asphalt driveway. Top link adjustment is key to getting good results though.

I would think that a strip of 10 gauge sheet sheet metal would be good enough and you could probably get a few of them for the cost of the Land Pride hardened steel edge. 1" thick material will have a tendency to plow even with a 45 degree chamfer.

 

[Showmedata]

then you'll have to lessen the 'angle of attack' but that may not be possible as normally you can't adjust the 'tilt' of a front mounted snowblower, except by the shoes.

This is a rear-mount; I have it set level.

 

[Showmedata]

I bought a used Land Pride SB1574 a few years ago but it came with a steel cutting edge. The cutting edge is very thin and does a decent job on my asphalt driveway. Top link adjustment is key to getting good results though.

I would think that a strip of 10 gauge sheet sheet metal would be good enough and you could probably get a few of them for the cost of the Land Pride hardened steel edge. 1" thick material will have a tendency to plow even with a 45 degree chamfer.

Thank you very much. I have a piece of (mild hot-rolled) steel already, 3/16" I think. Maybe I'll try that.

 

[mcmxi]

Thank you very much. I have a piece of (mild hot-rolled) steel already, 3/16" I think. Maybe I'll try that.

That should work well and will likely last you a few seasons. Even if it only lasts one season it's still a cheap option. I can't tell the size of your snow blower from the photo but it looks similar to mine. A 6ft x 4" strip of hot rolled 3/16" sheet is probably around $35 given that a 2ft x 8ft piece is around $230. You could get six cutting edges out of such a sheet.

 

[chim]

For the Pronovost I refurbed and ran for a few years I welded some 3/8" or 1/2" flat bar all around the bottom and it worked fine. It was always used on blacktop though. Suspect it wouldn't have worked great on unfrozen gravel.