Shear pin misery

07wingnut

Active member
Lifetime Member
Feb 13, 2016
248
90
28
Clearwater, BC, CA
Happy new year to all. I have been more or less lurking on this forum for some time, picking up all kinds of helpful fixes and mods for the BX23. One thing that caught my attention was that some folks are having trouble specifically with the 2750 snowblower shear pin replacement and this probably applies to other models as well. It has been suggested to use grade 1 (no marks on the bolt head) bolts as shear pins and while they do provide the protection needed, they tend to cause replacement problems. Because these bolts are soft, they do no usually snap cleanly when a shearing shock is applied to them. Either they slightly bend (eventually wallowing the shaft hole) or they shear but instead of a clean snap, the ends of the bolt left in the shaft are sort of smeared out, causing some difficulty to get them punched out. One solution is to get the correct shear bolt from kubota (only 1), then buy a bunch of grade 5 for the auger and grade 8 for the impeller. Use your 1 OEM shear bolt to mark where the grooves should go on your replacement bolts and then groove the replacement bolts. I put the bolt in the drill press at low speed, and with a very thin disk on the hand grinder, put the grooves as marked on the bolts. You can make a dozen shear bolts in less then half an hour. When these shear, the break is so clean, the bolt remnant left in the shaft almost drops out on its own, when the holes are lined up. To remove broken bolts from the auger and impeller shafts, it is helpful to have punch marks on the inner and outer shaft that are aligned when the shear bolt holes are aligned (this from another member, don't remember the name, but you know who you are) since you can usually not line them up by sight in a snowstorm, in the dark, freezing your fingers off. Hope this helps ease some of the misery of shear bolt replacement when the snow really gets going.
 

dfh1977

New member
Jun 3, 2013
198
0
0
east ky
I just buy in bulk by the pound at tractor supply the green bolts to use as shear pins. Probably got 30 for $3. Not as many nuts needed as i can reuse the nylon ones.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Knott

Member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2015 BX2670-1, BX2755HD Snow Blower, Farmking 4' box Blade, BX 2760A Plow Blade
Jun 2, 2015
101
4
18
Manitoba
One other thing to keep the number of shear bolts from breaking is to NOT over tighten them when you install them. Over tightening a fastener weakens it quite a bit. Just snug up the nuts on the shear bolts.
The thing I was taught was "An over torqued fastener is half broken".
 

rjwa749

New member

Equipment
L3940 Grand w/frt snowblower
Nov 27, 2010
18
1
0
Cle Elum
I use Grade 8 bolts, recommended by my cousin that sold bolts his entire life. They have needed pulling strength but no shear strength which works great.

Never had one cause a problem and I have used them 6 years in both my Kubota and my walk behind Honda 1132 blower. (Honda shear bolts are stupid expensive)
I would think the soft bolt could create an issue as you note with replacement and not breaking away quickly enough.
 

Southernfarm

New member

Equipment
2014 BX25D
Jun 8, 2016
109
1
0
Southern MB
I use Grade 8 bolts, recommended by my cousin that sold bolts his entire life. They have needed pulling strength but no shear strength which works great.

Never had one cause a problem and I have used them 6 years in both my Kubota and my walk behind Honda 1132 blower. (Honda shear bolts are stupid expensive)
I would think the soft bolt could create an issue as you note with replacement and not breaking away quickly enough.
Do you mean that the Grade 5 bolts have some shear strength, but the grade 8 ones don't?
 

rjwa749

New member

Equipment
L3940 Grand w/frt snowblower
Nov 27, 2010
18
1
0
Cle Elum
Do you mean that the Grade 5 bolts have some shear strength, but the grade 8 ones don't?
I was referring back to 07Wingnut's original post about Grade 1. He noted they were soft. Grade 8 shear well, as I imagine Grade 5 would at a lower point.

Here's an article on Grade 5 vs Grade 8. Depending on application a Grade 5 may be better for a larger diameter bolt to insure "shear", I have found as I noted the Grade 8 works very well on my L2194 Kubota blower.

http://tinelok.com/grade-5-vs-grade-8-fasteners/
 
Last edited:

Grizzy3901

New member

Equipment
L3901hst, la525, 72" landpride finish mower
Jan 1, 2017
67
1
0
Bealeton va
I have always used grade 8 the stronger the metal the more brittle it is. If your having problems geting your grade 2 and 5 bolts out its because its already started to stretch and oblonged the bolt and put applied metal to the area. On every snow plow i have put on they use grade 5 because they will stretch before snapping. Witch is a good thing en your plow smacks a manhole cover going to fast it will not shear all the bolts just stretch them.
 

Southernfarm

New member

Equipment
2014 BX25D
Jun 8, 2016
109
1
0
Southern MB
While we are on the subject, why does the manual have a grade 8 bolt with one groove on the impeller and a grade 5 with two grooves on the auger? My thought is the auger needs a bit of flex but snap clean. But why does the impeller only need one groove? Wouldn't two grooves be better and break clean?

Sent from my Z850 using Tapatalk
 

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,128
933
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
I found this post below on a design change on the interface between the fan and the pto shaft which I think provides an explanation of why repeated shear bolt failures are going on. Look at the photos and see how the shear bolt location was changed. The bolt now in the location of the former shear bolt no longer has a groove cut in it.





Dave M7040

I found this post:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-lawn-garden/280620-gr2120-yea-nay-5.html
This is still the material from the other form poster not me.
Take a look at post #42 and see his photos. I know this is a Kubota unit but I'm telling you the construction is **** near identical. The poster mentioned how Kubota (or really RAD) released an updated fan and shear bolt design to address this problem. The end of the fan has a collar built onto it. When it slides on the fan shaft, there is a mating collar that bolts to the fan shaft where the original shear bolt would go, except it no longer contains a shear groove. The actual "shear bolt" is now the bolt that connects the new collar piece and the collar on the new fan. The shear bolt is oriented coaxial to the fan shaft now.
 
Last edited: