Have yet to remove my FEL. Am planning on doing it this year. Need it on something with wheels so I can move it if needed. What are you folks using? Can it be unhooked onto something or does it have to be flat on the ground? Am assuming low dollys could work. Looking for ideas. Thanks.
Removing FEL - BX
- Thread starter Bearcatrp
- Start date
In 8 years, only had FEL off once, to have bad factory weld repaired, properly. It is easy IF you're on level ground and tires have same air pressure. Google for homemade dollies,bet several post how they built theirs. You'll need a good amount of space to store it ! Big casters(4") will help in rolling it around.
I remove the FEL every 2 weeks or so to cut the grass, then put it back on to move logs/dirt/rock/other.
The whole FEL is easy to get on/off if you're on a fairly stable & repeatable surface, using a cart requires more finesse but works. Have the manual with you and follow the procedure step by step and it's quick and easy. Have shop rags or paper towel handy, and preferably rubber gloves, because the 4 OEM couplings will lose about 1/8 teaspoon oil each and it gets messy quick.
What is not so quick nor easy is pin-on attachments. On the BX pin-on is much lighter than using a quick-connect system and the BX doesn't lift much to begin with. Stable & repeatable is key: if the FEL and tractor aren't in "the exact same position" you're going to have to force one or the other into that position. I made a rolling cart out of casters and 2"x3" boards for the bucket, it makes things really convenient, however the surface I line up with the bucket/grapple is on a slope and not repeatable, so it's more work.
But the FEL is relatively easy, just go slow. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
The whole FEL is easy to get on/off if you're on a fairly stable & repeatable surface, using a cart requires more finesse but works. Have the manual with you and follow the procedure step by step and it's quick and easy. Have shop rags or paper towel handy, and preferably rubber gloves, because the 4 OEM couplings will lose about 1/8 teaspoon oil each and it gets messy quick.
What is not so quick nor easy is pin-on attachments. On the BX pin-on is much lighter than using a quick-connect system and the BX doesn't lift much to begin with. Stable & repeatable is key: if the FEL and tractor aren't in "the exact same position" you're going to have to force one or the other into that position. I made a rolling cart out of casters and 2"x3" boards for the bucket, it makes things really convenient, however the surface I line up with the bucket/grapple is on a slope and not repeatable, so it's more work.
But the FEL is relatively easy, just go slow. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
I put down plywood in my shop and keep it in there until needed. It doesn't mess up the concrete or loader paint while putting it on and off. The first couple of times was a pain putting it on, but now it goes right on and off without issues.
If I had to be able to move it around, I would attach some dollies to plywood and make some type of platform on wheels.
Just be sure you use enough dollies so its stable. If it falls off it will be a PIA moving the loader by hand to reposition it.
If I had to be able to move it around, I would attach some dollies to plywood and make some type of platform on wheels.
Just be sure you use enough dollies so its stable. If it falls off it will be a PIA moving the loader by hand to reposition it.
Never did a BX but since 2002 have done a B7500, L3200 and current L4240. I've had the loaders on and off many times. When the loader is removed, the bucket AND frame are removed together. I never mow with the loader on. It goes on when needed and is removed when that task is done. When not on, the loader is almost always in the shed. On a few occasions the loaders have been on and off more than once in a day. As mentioned, any firm flat surface works well. One time I was in a hurry and removed the loader on gravel. It was a struggle to reinstall it. The loader on the B7500 had a bar that connected the frame that ran across the hood. Extra care is needed to make sure the frame is connected properly or that bar will come down and crease the hood. I sold the B7500 to a dealer when I bought the L3200 and he told me it was common and was happy I never had that mishap.
After the loader assembly is detached and before disconnecting the hoses I shut the tractor off and push the joystick into all four positions several times to bleed off any pressure. Even with that effort, changes in temperature can build some pressure in the hydraulics that remain on the loader. Almost without exception on my tractor it's the boom up/down (white and yellow) hoses. Sometimes it works to connect one of them and move the joystick. Then the second hose will go on. Sometimes it takes a firm tap on the small poppet in the female end with a hardwood "punch" to relieve the pressure. If this is done have an old towel around it or get yourself oiled real quickly.
After the loader assembly is detached and before disconnecting the hoses I shut the tractor off and push the joystick into all four positions several times to bleed off any pressure. Even with that effort, changes in temperature can build some pressure in the hydraulics that remain on the loader. Almost without exception on my tractor it's the boom up/down (white and yellow) hoses. Sometimes it works to connect one of them and move the joystick. Then the second hose will go on. Sometimes it takes a firm tap on the small poppet in the female end with a hardwood "punch" to relieve the pressure. If this is done have an old towel around it or get yourself oiled real quickly.
the SSQA frame is only 100# and it's benefits surpass the little loss of payload capacity. NOT having to deal with lining up 4 pins,sometimes several times in a day is a blessing !
Taking the FEL off and putting it back on is so easy why would you not do it. Sometimes it gets finicky if things aren't exactly level or the tires aren't the same pressure. I've done it more than once per day depending on the tasks, but at least once a week. Makes mowing so much easier around obstacles.
I've never had the connections leak as Hedgehog mentions, not even a drop. I do keep them as clean as possible removing any dirt of grass around the connections and keep the caps on when not in use.
Something I have not dealt with since I do not use a dolly is the possibility of the loader being higher than the tractor. When putting the loader back on the hook slides down onto the main frame and latches (see below). This is done by dumping the bucket which lowers the loader side frame - think seesaw - bucket side goes up and tractor side goes down. Not sure a loader stand could be too high to not allow the hook to drop on.
One precaution, make sure to pay attention to the position of the the safety lock button (#2 in the diagram) on the quick coupler. I did not have it locked into the designated hole and the coupler came loose during use and no loader control. Thought I broke something and took a few minutes to figure it out.
I've never had the connections leak as Hedgehog mentions, not even a drop. I do keep them as clean as possible removing any dirt of grass around the connections and keep the caps on when not in use.
Something I have not dealt with since I do not use a dolly is the possibility of the loader being higher than the tractor. When putting the loader back on the hook slides down onto the main frame and latches (see below). This is done by dumping the bucket which lowers the loader side frame - think seesaw - bucket side goes up and tractor side goes down. Not sure a loader stand could be too high to not allow the hook to drop on.
One precaution, make sure to pay attention to the position of the the safety lock button (#2 in the diagram) on the quick coupler. I did not have it locked into the designated hole and the coupler came loose during use and no loader control. Thought I broke something and took a few minutes to figure it out.
When I did mine for the first time, I read through the manual, but also watched some YouTube videos for better visuals. Very easy once you do it a few times. I built a small dolly out of 2x6s and some wheels to make it easier to move around the shop when not in use (also did one for the BH).
Thanks folks. I usually just remove the bucket (quick attach) for mowing. Have year over the years of folks with leaks after putting the FEL back on. In my garage, when I put my bucket down after use, I tilt it so the edge/blade is pointing down. Can tell my FEL is slightly sweaked as my right side touches the cement first. About 1/8th if an inch from other side. Might as well give it a try. Will plan a day the FEL is not needed in case I need a day to get it back on.
I would NOT attempt to remove the loader onto anything but solid ground... like the driveway or garage floor.
Especially if you are not well practiced at taking it off/on
Even on solid ground, sometimes you need to realign or adjust things and start over.
Thats going to be difficult if it's on some kind of dolly.... Things will get ugly.
Trust me.
Once it's off maybe you can maneuver it onto some kind of dolly(s) to roll it around.
Best of Luck.
In my opinion, The quick connect manifold for the hyd. lines is JUNK.
I know there was a recall or a bulletin about them leaking.
I removed mine and switched them to 4 individual connectors... like most other implements.
works great, no leaks.
I wouldn't let that scare you though.. Mine was leak free until it was just out of warranty...
