has anyone rebuild a woods finishing mower spindle? I was wondering if anyone could offer any tips. Did it require a press, How hard is it to remove spindle from housing, etc. I have a parts schematics and plan on replacing all seals bearings and internals...much cheaper than buying a whole new one. any advice accepted, thanks!
Rebuilding a woods finishing mower spindle Q
- Thread starter mpmitch1
- Start date
I think nut #1 and the two bolts #2 need to be removed. The hub is driven by the key in the spindle.
My experiences do not involve Woods specifically but nearly identical.
Why do you need these repairs, i.e. What are your symptoms?
In my case, I would find a new blade did not track flat due to a bent spindle.
A lot will depend upon the degree of corrosion below the seals so if you have time liberal doses of rust penetrant is a good idea.
I have a press but find using a large brass punch, about an inch in diameter, with a heavy mallet will knock the spindle out of the bearings from the top side. Brass because it is softer than the steel spindle and wont mushroom the head of the spindle. Do not hit steel to steel or you will be in serious trouble.
I think the shock action of the heavy hammer and brass punch is more likely to get the spindle out of the housing than the steady pressure of a press.
The brass punch can be a piece of solid brass rod from a specialty metal shop. Mine is about 6" long and 1" diameter.
Dave M7040
My experiences do not involve Woods specifically but nearly identical.
Why do you need these repairs, i.e. What are your symptoms?
In my case, I would find a new blade did not track flat due to a bent spindle.
A lot will depend upon the degree of corrosion below the seals so if you have time liberal doses of rust penetrant is a good idea.
I have a press but find using a large brass punch, about an inch in diameter, with a heavy mallet will knock the spindle out of the bearings from the top side. Brass because it is softer than the steel spindle and wont mushroom the head of the spindle. Do not hit steel to steel or you will be in serious trouble.
I think the shock action of the heavy hammer and brass punch is more likely to get the spindle out of the housing than the steady pressure of a press.
The brass punch can be a piece of solid brass rod from a specialty metal shop. Mine is about 6" long and 1" diameter.
Dave M7040
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
I've worked on other Woods spindles that are a bit larger. Woods uses tapered collets on their spindles (common on well-made machinery). No press or other big persuasion is usually needed, but ditto the above comment about penetrant.
To get the shaft out of the spindle, remove the top pulley 6 first. The pulley is secured by the collar 5. The pulley and collar are tapered for a concentric tight fit. Collar 5 has a slot in it that allows the lower part to compress onto the shaft as the pulley is drawn up against it with the screws. To disassemble it, take out the two screws and turn them into the two extra tapped holes in the collar's top flange, pushing the pulley off the taper. Then take off the top nut to lift the collar and pulley off the shaft - take out the key and other parts.
With the shaft out, the bearing cups are visible pressed into the spindle. Usually there are access gaps for using a small drift to tap the cups out.
BTW, if you wait on buying parts until you have it apart, you can save even more on bearings and seals by using the actual numbers printed on the old ones.
Have fun - Dick B
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Y. The spindle froze up. With all my force I can barely rotate the blade. Crazy thing is I greased it and starting cutting, literally 30 seconds after cutting it froze up. I don't see how it had time to even heat up. I assume the bearings seized but will see once I tear it open.
Pressure washers are responsible for a lot of bearing failures by forcing water past the seals.
Dave M7040
Dave M7040