Ran out of Fuel

[AndyWS]

Hey OTT crew
I need some help that I probably don't deserve but I know this is the place to get it. I pulled a complete bone head move - I ran outta fuel (I think). I had made a couple passes with the disk down and all of a sudden the tractor acted like it ran outta fuel. It lost power, sputtered and died. After a few choices words I ran to the truck stop, got some diesel, and fueled up about halfway. Since then I can't get a start. I've tried opening the air purge valve above the fuel pump and I've also cracked open all 3 of the injector nuts one at a time until diesel was pumping put each one in time with the crank, then tightened while attempting to start (to avoid additional air). I've come close to starting but as soon as I think its about to catch, it just goes back to cranking. What might I be missing?

 

[DDCD]

I've never done it on a kubota but on my older tractor there's a specific order for bleeding. Filter 1, filter 2, bottom of injection pump, top of injection pump, crack injector line at pump. I leave it open enough that fuel is squirting out while it kicks over. Tighten after it starts. I have never had to crack at the injector end.

I'd check your manual or find the service manuel and it should outline the steps.

 

[AndyWS]

This may be showing my ignorance here - I assumed that if I cracked the injector nuts and got diesel squirting out, would that not imply that the air is out of of line?

 

[greg86z28]

The manual says to leave the purge valve open for 30 seconds. Not sure if you did it for that long.

Have you tried cracking the injectors again? I think there is a specific order to do them in, closest to furthest.

 

[AndyWS]

Feels like I've fidgeted with with that valve every which way. I've tried to leave it open while cranking, tried to feather it out while cranking (almost like a choke on a gas engine), left it open for 30 sec then closed and cranked - nothing. I've had a few times where I thought it was gonna catch but then right back to square 1 again.

I can say for certain that I did the injectors in the opposite order though. I cracked them starting with the one closest to the front end first. I can definitely try the other direction though.

 

[Russell King]

Do not try to bleed at the top of the injection pump. You can mess up the pump if you happen to rotate the large nut underneath the injector line, so avoid that.

Sounds like it is close to being bled, I would read your operator’s manual to see how it says to bleed your tractor. Some are easy, some are not.

 

[DDCD]

Just because fuel comes out of the injectors does not mean there is not ANY air in the entire fuel system.

Keep at it, following the correct procedure in the manual, and it will pop eventually. I had to buy a new battery. Make sure to let the starter cool down.

 

[AndyWS]

Thanks Guys. I'm using this as a forcing function to replace air and fuel filters as well. I'll keep at it.

Out of curiosity, of I'm getting "close" is there any merit to using starting fluid to get myself over the hump so to speak and then cracking the injector nuts while under power one at a time to complete the purge?

 

[Henro]

Thanks Guys. I'm using this as a forcing function to replace air and fuel filters as well. I'll keep at it.

Out of curiosity, of I'm getting "close" is there any merit to using starting fluid to get myself over the hump so to speak and then cracking the injector nuts while under power one at a time to complete the purge?

I don’t know, but everything I read indicates that for Kabota diesel engines starter fluid is a quick way to end up with a major engine repair expense… Personally I would not do it.

 

[DDCD]

Never ever use starting fluid. That's what I've always been told. Maybe Kubotas are different and love starting fluid/ether but I doubt it.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Thanks Guys. I'm using this as a forcing function to replace air and fuel filters as well. I'll keep at it.

Out of curiosity, of I'm getting "close" is there any merit to using starting fluid to get myself over the hump so to speak and then cracking the injector nuts while under power one at a time to complete the purge?

NO SUMMER AIR!!!!!! Ever. Bleed it out as per the WSM.

 

[JerryMT]

NO SUMMER AIR!!!!!! Ever. Bleed it out as per the WSM.

Are you sure you ran out of fuel? You could have a restriction in the fuel delivery system. If that's the case bleeding won't help. Remove the fuel line where it goes in to the Injector Pump (IP). Fuels should gush out like a cow peein' on a flat rock. If it trickles or dribbles out, you have a restriction somewhere between the tank and the IP. Work backwards to the tank until you find it. It can be a a a bad lift pump or a clogged screen in the lift pump (if you have one) , clogged filter(s) or clogged filter head, pinched fuel hoses, clogged tank outlet

 

[JerryMT]

Hey OTT crew
I need some help that I probably don't deserve but I know this is the place to get it. I pulled a complete bone head move - I ran outta fuel (I think). I had made a couple passes with the disk down and all of a sudden the tractor acted like it ran outta fuel. It lost power, sputtered and died. After a few choices words I ran to the truck stop, got some diesel, and fueled up about halfway. Since then I can't get a start. I've tried opening the air purge valve above the fuel pump and I've also cracked open all 3 of the injector nuts one at a time until diesel was pumping put each one in time with the crank, then tightened while attempting to start (to avoid additional air). I've come close to starting but as soon as I think its about to catch, it just goes back to cranking. What might I be missing?

Are you sure you ran out of fuel? You could have a restriction in the fuel delivery system. If that's the case bleeding won't help. Remove the fuel line where it goes in to the Injector Pump (IP). Fuels should gush out like a cow peein' on a flat rock. If it trickles or dribbles out, you have a restriction somewhere between the tank and the IP. Work backwards to the tank until you find it. It can be a a a bad lift pump or a clogged screen in the lift pump (if you have one) , clogged filter(s) or clogged filter head, pinched fuel hoses, clogged tank outlet

 

[AndyWS]

Ok glad I mentioned that thing about the started fluid. I'll pass on that idea. I'm pretty sure that I'm clear from the tank to the fuel filter - if I press up on the inlet valve when the filter is off it gushes out PDQ. So I'm guessing it's either needing bled, or I suppose possibly a clog after the filter although that seems less likely I'd think.

 

[Tx Jim]

Ditto on no use starter fluid & positively don't loosen inj line nuts at inj pump I agree with Jerry to check for good fuel flow from tank to inj pump. Definitely don't loosen inj line nut at inj pump unless plunger nut is held securely.

 

[AndyWS]

Good news boys - got er fired up. Definitely ended up just being a lot of air in the fuel system. Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions. It's hard to believe that such a seemingly small oversight could create such havoc but I can virtually guarantee you I'll never do that again!

If anyone stumbles across this thread in the future looking for answers, here's my advice:
-Bleed the injectors in order starting with the one closest to the steering wheel and ending with the one closest to the front of the tractor.
- be prepared to have to do this SEVERAL times. More than you'd ever guess if you've not had to do this before.
- after you've bled a given injector tighten it back WHILE someone is cranking the engine to avoid the possibility of reintroducing air.
- plan on hooking your battery up to a truck battery with jump cables while you do this of you'll have a dead battery pretty quickly.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Oil pan 4]

I always worked on 3cyl 900cc kubota generators that had ran out of fuel.
After you prime the filters crack all the injectors and just crank it and shoot fuel all over the place. Tighten them down and it will fire right up.

 

[rbargeron]

Kubotas have had the purge valve for many years and people may not know why its there and how it works. Opening it allows higher flow back to the tank, exhausting trapped air in the system. The procedure that has always worked for me, after running out and refilling the tank, is open the valve, crank the engine till it runs, it may be rough and/or at lower rpm), when it runs smoother close the valve - running becomes normal.

 

[Russell King]

Good to hear you are back in operation. Some suggest filling up after every day to avoid condensation in the tank. Added bonus is to also avoid running out of fuel.

 

[Henro]

Good news boys - got er fired up. Definitely ended up just being a lot of air in the fuel system. Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions. It's hard to believe that such a seemingly small oversight could create such havoc but I can virtually guarantee you I'll never do that again!

If anyone stumbles across this thread in the future looking for answers, here's my advice:
-Bleed the injectors in order starting with the one closest to the steering wheel and ending with the one closest to the front of the tractor.
- be prepared to have to do this SEVERAL times. More than you'd ever guess if you've not had to do this before.
- after you've bled a given injector tighten it back WHILE someone is cranking the engine to avoid the possibility of reintroducing air.
- plan on hooking your battery up to a truck battery with jump cables while you do this of you'll have a dead battery pretty quickly.

Thanks again guys!

I would add one thing to your excellent advice. Give the starter a rest occasionally so it cools off and you do not over heat and damage it...