Ramp recommendations

timsch

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'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
161
33
28
Houston, TX
Apologies in advance if this is not S,R,orM, but if I screw it up, it will be.;)

I have a 16' tandem trailer and the rear deck height is around 15-18 inches above the ground. I want to load my L275DT with a FEL and am looking into ramps. I was considering making some out of C-channel & angle, but then saw there were aluminum options. Given that I'm not terribly strong, being a smaller guy and getting older, I need to consider weight and aluminum would probably be best for me physically

What's been y'all's experience with aluminum ramps for the load I'm looking at?

For that deck height, what length of ramp would be recommended? thanks
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,
Apr 2, 2019
13,776
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
make good strong STEEL ramps and pockets under the deck. My car hauler had them. They slide out, then up onto the deck. Not that bad of a job to lift up onto the deck. My ramps were 7' long, nice gentle slope. If they're too heavy ,you do have a tractor with FEl !!
 

MapleLeafFarmer

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Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
1,097
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E.
here is another option.
My arms are failing me too so i use these style car ramps a lot.
More than capable of handling your approx. 3,000# tractor.
Cost about $50 when on sale and weigh less than 20#.
When transporting slide under tractor with a strap across then. When driving onto trailer a block under back of trailer to minimize tongue lift and when loose indicates when tongue weight is positive to the front.
Cheap, light, flexible use and gets the job done.
One of many options.
I use extra tall ones gives me 12" of lift.
1781207458679.png
 
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Vlach7

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L47 305DT JD500C
Dec 16, 2021
452
329
63
Frazier Park Ca
Whatever you use, put some cribbing under the back of your trailer so your tongue doesn’t get lifted up, don’t ask me how I know.
 
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timsch

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'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
161
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28
Houston, TX
Thanks for the recommendations so far. I went out to measure the deck height and it is at 19", so I was a bit optimistic.

I REALLY like the idea of the the plastic ramps. 12" leaves 7" more, which I'd imagine the tractor could do in 4wd, although if the tires are wet or muddy, I'd guess all bets are off. I could shim the bottoms with 2x to give me another 3". Maybe there are better ideas to do that.

I don't see room under the trailer for pockets that wouldn't ride lower than the axles, which is as low as I'd prefer. Maybe it wouldn't be a big deal if they were, although a good bump on them and my ramps may be trapped.

I'm not sure I'm seeing the design you're talking about, Jim.
 

Vlach7

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Equipment
L47 305DT JD500C
Dec 16, 2021
452
329
63
Frazier Park Ca
There are videos that show the same thing that happened to me and that is when you’re driving up the ramps to the back of the trailer it Teeter totters your tongue up and if your truck is at any incline downhill the parking brakes or if just in park will not stop it and you’ll go for a ride till it Corrects itself. I went about 50 feet. Videos show it rollingtill it crashes for other people.
 

Shawn T. W

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'05 L5030 HSTC - '21 MF GC 1725 MB - '18 JD Z960M Z-Trak
Dec 9, 2024
719
1,350
93
SW Missouri Ozarks
I have landing gear on the back of mine, I don't put them down all the way when I'm loading ...

IMG_20250708_120503213~2.jpg

The ramps go into these "pockets" this is from the factory ...

IMG_20250708_115729141~3.jpg

This why you want to support the rear of the trailer ... As if the back goes down too much, the front of the trailer will lift the back of the truck, where the parking brakes are ... A chock block could also be handy ...!

Video
No support
 
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BXHoosier

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BX24
Jan 21, 2018
512
630
93
Indiana
My trailer has stamped steel ramps that are fairly light and much smoother than the angle iron ladder style ramps. The ladder style ramps aren’t small tire friendly which is another reason I wanted the stamped ramps. My trailer has ramp storage underneath.
 

Bearcatrp

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Equipment
Oversized Garden Tractor (aka BX1880) with loader, mower and 3 point
Mar 28, 2023
1,327
971
113
Minnesota
Sell your current trailer and buy a trailer that tilts.
 
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Trash Panda

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L2501
Feb 18, 2022
224
208
43
Wyoming
Thanks for the recommendations so far. I went out to measure the deck height and it is at 19", so I was a bit optimistic.

I REALLY like the idea of the the plastic ramps. 12" leaves 7" more, which I'd imagine the tractor could do in 4wd, although if the tires are wet or muddy, I'd guess all bets are off. I could shim the bottoms with 2x to give me another 3". Maybe there are better ideas to do that.

I don't see room under the trailer for pockets that wouldn't ride lower than the axles, which is as low as I'd prefer. Maybe it wouldn't be a big deal if they were, although a good bump on them and my ramps may be trapped.

I'm not sure I'm seeing the design you're talking about, Jim.
Plastic ramps will get it done for ya.

Drive up the ramps till the tires hit that 7” height difference, lift front axle with the loader, and drive up. You can put down chunks of 2x4 on the trailer deck where you’ll be sliding the loader if you’re worried about keeping it pristine.
 
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Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
7,653
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Austin, Texas
Since you originally asked about aluminum ramps, here is a link to a supplier of trailers and accessories for trailers. It sends you directly to aluminum ramps but they also have other types.

The highest plastic ramp they offered was 14 inches. I would be somewhat concerned about the tractor pushing the ramps out of place as you try to climb that last vertical 5 inches.

 

timsch

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'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
161
33
28
Houston, TX
Since you originally asked about aluminum ramps, here is a link to a supplier of trailers and accessories for trailers. It sends you directly to aluminum ramps but they also have other types.

The highest plastic ramp they offered was 14 inches. I would be somewhat concerned about the tractor pushing the ramps out of place as you try to climb that last vertical 5 inches.

Thanks. That site was where i 1st saw the aluminum ramps. I'm having difficulty finding the 14" lift plastic ones.

I'm sure I'd be plenty nervous trying to make the jump too, although with the FEL that could prevent anything too bad happening (hopefully).
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
7,653
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Austin, Texas
Thanks. That site was where i 1st saw the aluminum ramps. I'm having difficulty finding the 14" lift plastic ones.

I'm sure I'd be plenty nervous trying to make the jump too, although with the FEL that could prevent anything too bad happening (hopefully).
Oh, sorry, they really don’t have 14 inch high ramps like you need. I just saw this in the filter section.
IMG_0717.jpeg
But when you select that filter you only get four similar to these:
IMG_0718.png
 

Trash Panda

Active member

Equipment
L2501
Feb 18, 2022
224
208
43
Wyoming
Look up dovetail trailer. Basically, the last bit of the deck slopes down, so it isn’t as high as the rest.
Had a hydraulic dovetail trailer at the last company I worked at, and man that was the cats pajamas for loading & unloading.

Also made it a breeze to install hydraulic jacks, since there was a handy system to tap off already.

Expensive as hell, but worth every penny when it’s not my dime!
 

Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
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5,155
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Michigan
My 16 footer has a “one piece, steel ramp" that has “helper springs” attached to it, so lifting and lowering it is easier.

Maybe something like that is in order?

There is no “magic trailer” for me…..

I also like “built in-stoppers” that you can lower to prevent the trailer from rising up in the back when loading/unloading, but they have a “small down-side”.

You gotta account for the “droop” when you load it, or you will have to “unload it” again in order to allow for some slack unless they are the “jack-screw” style.


The biggest downside to alumimnum is the welding part. It’s not quite as easy to find a "competent Al weldor”, but they do exist.

Regardless, I would “have to have” a system whereas the ramp(s) are integral to the trailer…. (y) ;)
 
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timsch

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Equipment
'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
161
33
28
Houston, TX
The aluminum ramps would be purchased, not fabbed by me, 500-1000$

The plastic was very attractive when I thought i could get them in 12". The highest I see for that style is 8.5", which doesn't even get me halfway there. making a 2x base for them would be an option, but a bit riskier than others, and I dont need to be penny wise, pound foolish. Still thinking about it though.

Spring assist ramps would work well, but I don't need them installed all the time.

All of the advice about keeping the trailer from tipping/lifting has been worth the weight in gold though. Much appreciated.