Ramp recommendations

[timsch]

Apologies in advance if this is not S,R,orM, but if I screw it up, it will be.

I have a 16' tandem trailer and the rear deck height is around 15-18 inches above the ground. I want to load my L275DT with a FEL and am looking into ramps. I was considering making some out of C-channel & angle, but then saw there were aluminum options. Given that I'm not terribly strong, being a smaller guy and getting older, I need to consider weight and aluminum would probably be best for me physically

What's been y'all's experience with aluminum ramps for the load I'm looking at?

For that deck height, what length of ramp would be recommended? thanks

 

[GreensvilleJay]

make good strong STEEL ramps and pockets under the deck. My car hauler had them. They slide out, then up onto the deck. Not that bad of a job to lift up onto the deck. My ramps were 7' long, nice gentle slope. If they're too heavy ,you do have a tractor with FEl !!

 

[jimh406]

You could also add a short angled extension and skip the ramps. Just drive up.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

here is another option.
My arms are failing me too so i use these style car ramps a lot.
More than capable of handling your approx. 3,000# tractor.
Cost about $50 when on sale and weigh less than 20#.
When transporting slide under tractor with a strap across then. When driving onto trailer a block under back of trailer to minimize tongue lift and when loose indicates when tongue weight is positive to the front.
Cheap, light, flexible use and gets the job done.
One of many options.
I use extra tall ones gives me 12" of lift.

 

[Vlach7]

Whatever you use, put some cribbing under the back of your trailer so your tongue doesn’t get lifted up, don’t ask me how I know.

 

[timsch]

Thanks for the recommendations so far. I went out to measure the deck height and it is at 19", so I was a bit optimistic.

I REALLY like the idea of the the plastic ramps. 12" leaves 7" more, which I'd imagine the tractor could do in 4wd, although if the tires are wet or muddy, I'd guess all bets are off. I could shim the bottoms with 2x to give me another 3". Maybe there are better ideas to do that.

I don't see room under the trailer for pockets that wouldn't ride lower than the axles, which is as low as I'd prefer. Maybe it wouldn't be a big deal if they were, although a good bump on them and my ramps may be trapped.

I'm not sure I'm seeing the design you're talking about, Jim.

 

[Vlach7]

There are videos that show the same thing that happened to me and that is when you’re driving up the ramps to the back of the trailer it Teeter totters your tongue up and if your truck is at any incline downhill the parking brakes or if just in park will not stop it and you’ll go for a ride till it Corrects itself. I went about 50 feet. Videos show it rollingtill it crashes for other people.

 

[Shawn T. W]

I have landing gear on the back of mine, I don't put them down all the way when I'm loading ...



The ramps go into these "pockets" this is from the factory ...



This why you want to support the rear of the trailer ... As if the back goes down too much, the front of the trailer will lift the back of the truck, where the parking brakes are ... A chock block could also be handy ...!

Video
No support

 

[BXHoosier]

My trailer has stamped steel ramps that are fairly light and much smoother than the angle iron ladder style ramps. The ladder style ramps aren’t small tire friendly which is another reason I wanted the stamped ramps. My trailer has ramp storage underneath.