Oil change timing? Grease?

[Velosprints]

hi folks,

I bought a 2008 B2920 a while back, and I have yet to change the oil in it. (I know, I know, that's bad. That's why I'm here) I bought the machine with 216 hours on it, (with new oil) and now it has 270 hrs. Should I change the oil ASAP, or do I have a few hours left? What is the standard hour usage before an oil change is necessary?

Same question for greasing the loader? Standard usage before grease is necessary?

 

[Tchess450]

The manual should cover all of that. If you don***8217;t have one I would get one. I am guessing it is 200 hours for oil life. Most home users it is just once a year. Grease is often every 8 hours of use.

Edit: https://www.kubotausa.com/service-support/maintenance-schedules/check-points-maintenance-schedule

 

[SDT]

hi folks,

I bought a 2008 B2920 a while back, and I have yet to change the oil in it. (I know, I know, that's bad. That's why I'm here) I bought the machine with 216 hours on it, (with new oil) and now it has 270 hrs. Should I change the oil ASAP, or do I have a few hours left? What is the standard hour usage before an oil change is necessary?

Same question for greasing the loader? Standard usage before grease is necessary?

Follow the recommendations in the owner's manual. If you do not have an owner's manual you should get one.

Equipment that is little used should be serviced according to the calendar rather than operating hours.

I usually change the engine oil and filter in little used equipment each fall after last usage but every two years should be adequate.

SDT

 

[Tornado]

hi folks,

I bought a 2008 B2920 a while back, and I have yet to change the oil in it. (I know, I know, that's bad. That's why I'm here) I bought the machine with 216 hours on it, (with new oil) and now it has 270 hrs. Should I change the oil ASAP, or do I have a few hours left? What is the standard hour usage before an oil change is necessary?

Same question for greasing the loader? Standard usage before grease is necessary?

You say its a 2008, and you've never changed the oil since you bought it. Had fresh oil when purhcased. Question is - when did you buy it? We dont know how long that oil has been sitting in there. Id say 2 years maximum on low usage equipment as a rule of thumb. Every year however is what most would do who want to really care for their equipment. If you use good, fully synthetic oil like T6 rotella going 2 years and low usage is probably not too bad.

Regarding the loader - look at all the joints and make some observations. You want to see a little grease that has oozed out. If it looks pretty dry around the joints and such I would 100% do a full grease on the loader zerks. Personally If it was me i would do a full grease on the entire tractor right now, including all the zerks on the underside of the tractor. I would change all the fluids, all the filters, so I could start right now with a good maintenance schedule. There are some zerks often on the drive shaft at the front axle and a lot of folks never grease those locations and its really important. It takes just a couple minutes and could make massive differences to the tractor. Look over the manual good and locate all the zerks - hit them all. Fresh grease is never a bad thing.

 

[flogler]

I work for Universal and when the Jaws ride was there I worked on the boats for 9 years. Each boat had two diesels and one was a 3 cylinder kubota powered generator. It was set to run at 2k rpms anytime boat was running. This meant the engine could be running up to 18 hrs a day. We changed the oil every 150 hrs(air filter, fuel filters, oil and filter). We never lost a generator due to engine failure. When the generator would burn up we replaced the complete unit. I will set mine up at 100hrs based on prior first hand experience.

 

[GeoHorn]

It’s only a personal opinion but I’d change it no longer than 2 years and EVERY year would be my actual practice with such low operating hours.

Engines that sit.... every day the atmosphere warms up and air leaves that engine thru the breather... every night cool, moist air enters that engine.... over and over and over.... That engine RUSTS internally when it sits.

Some people will start/run their little-used engines periodically for 20-30 mins and think they’ve done it some good. WRONG!
They’ve actually CONTRIBUTED to the problem because fossil fuels turn into carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide and WATER VAPOR which remains in that engine and condenses and runs down into the oil and the sump/oil-pan where it sits and corrodes and rusts.

USE your engine...and USE IT HARD for an hour or more at least monthly... or change that oil frequently. (Many warranties specify 3 months for unused engines and some specify minimum operating hours such as 1 hour per month minimum.)

Oil is “slung” up by the crank and rods to the upper cylinder walls and that also lubricates the rings and all the bearings get a nice coating. Otherwise the oil drains off... and that nightly humid air RUSTS.... and the next start-up scrapes all that rust against parts and down into the oil which then circulates all thru the engine.

(DId I forget to mention that sulfur (even low sulfur diesel) mixes with that water and makes sulfuric/sulfurous acid..? And accelerates the corrosion?)

IF you plan to actually store the engine for long periods of dis-use, then run it up hot with fresh oil/filter and shut it down and tape/plug the exhaust, breather, and intakes closed. (Some folks “mist” the intakes during that shut-down with a preservative such as SeaFoam but I don’t. I have a total of 12 engines in various equipment at my place and 9 of them are only used a couple times a year. That’s the treatment they get and it’s been working for me for the last 30+ years without trouble.)

 

[propuckstopper]

It***8217;s only a personal opinion but I***8217;d change it no longer than 2 years and EVERY year would be my actual practice with such low operating hours.

Engines that sit.... every day the atmosphere warms up and air leaves that engine thru the breather... every night cool, moist air enters that engine.... over and over and over.... That engine RUSTS internally when it sits.

Some people will start/run their little-used engines periodically for 20-30 mins and think they***8217;ve done it some good. WRONG!
They***8217;ve actually CONTRIBUTED to the problem because fossil fuels turn into carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide and WATER VAPOR which remains in that engine and condenses and runs down into the oil and the sump/oil-pan where it sits and corrodes and rusts.

USE your engine...and USE IT HARD for an hour or more at least monthly... or change that oil frequently. (Many warranties specify 3 months for unused engines and some specify minimum operating hours such as 1 hour per month minimum.)

Oil is ***8220;slung***8221; up by the crank and rods to the upper cylinder walls and that also lubricates the rings and all the bearings get a nice coating. Otherwise the oil drains off... and that nightly humid air RUSTS.... and the next start-up scrapes all that rust against parts and down into the oil which then circulates all thru the engine.

(DId I forget to mention that sulfur (even low sulfur diesel) mixes with that water and makes sulfuric/sulfurous acid..? And accelerates the corrosion?)

IF you plan to actually store the engine for long periods of dis-use, then run it up hot with fresh oil/filter and shut it down and tape/plug the exhaust, breather, and intakes closed. (Some folks ***8220;mist***8221; the intakes during that shut-down with a preservative such as SeaFoam but I don***8217;t. I have a total of 12 engines in various equipment at my place and 9 of them are only used a couple times a year. That***8217;s the treatment they get and it***8217;s been working for me for the last 30+ years without trouble.)

^^^^^^ This. Very accurate and well presented information.

 

[WFM]

I don't put on a lot of hours so I grease my tractor fall and spring and change the oil filter and Rotilla oil spring and fall.