Oh no! Failed valve stem.

fruitcakesa

Active member

Equipment
M 6040
Oct 26, 2010
703
141
43
Cavendish Vermont
My better judgement told me not to do it and of course that was ignored...
The right rear loaded tire has been leaking from the valve core nslowly for months and today I decided the pull the core and fix it.
I first jacked up the tire to unweight it before core removal with the stem at 12 noon
A little niggling thought crept in that if the core was broken, I might not be able to replace it once it was partially removed. :eek:
And so it was the case. The very top piece of the core that actually threads into the stem was broken off from the rest and so air and ballast were spraying out.
I quickly replaced the valve cap to slow things down while I considered my options.
I noticed the valve stem is 2 piece to allow fluid to be loaded so I removed that piece which would expose the rest of the broken core and hopefully I would be able to get it all out .
However, the second I pulled that piece off, a solid stream of of ballast continued to shoot out.
In a panic I managed to replace that piece after losing at least a gallon of ballast but still have not fixed it.
It also appears to be leaking where the stem emerges from the rim so I am stymied as far as personally being able to repair this.
Monday I will call the dealer who has a mobile repair unit and arrange for that.
I can't figure out why the fluid continued to stream out with the tire positioned the way I had it. And I did not want to let it run out till it stopped.
 

imnukensc

Active member

Equipment
BX2380
Sep 10, 2015
268
139
43
Midlands of SC
Sounds like your tires were over filled. Should have had very little, if any, ballast come out with the valve stem at the 12 o'clock position.
 
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mcfarmall

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota M5660SUHD, Farmall C
Sep 11, 2013
537
447
63
Kalamazoo, MI
Typically, liquid ballast should be filled to the level of the top of the rim. Get a few 5 gallon buckets, pull the stem and catch what comes out. Make the repair, air it up and move on.
 

tthorkil

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M9540HDC12 / LX2610HSDC / ZD1011-48 / Bobcat S250
Jan 1, 2011
258
51
28
Bagley, MN, United States
My better judgement told me not to do it and of course that was ignored...
The right rear loaded tire has been leaking from the valve core nslowly for months and today I decided the pull the core and fix it.
I first jacked up the tire to unweight it before core removal with the stem at 12 noon
A little niggling thought crept in that if the core was broken, I might not be able to replace it once it was partially removed. :eek:
And so it was the case. The very top piece of the core that actually threads into the stem was broken off from the rest and so air and ballast were spraying out.
I quickly replaced the valve cap to slow things down while I considered my options.
I noticed the valve stem is 2 piece to allow fluid to be loaded so I removed that piece which would expose the rest of the broken core and hopefully I would be able to get it all out .
However, the second I pulled that piece off, a solid stream of of ballast continued to shoot out.
In a panic I managed to replace that piece after losing at least a gallon of ballast but still have not fixed it.
It also appears to be leaking where the stem emerges from the rim so I am stymied as far as personally being able to repair this.
Monday I will call the dealer who has a mobile repair unit and arrange for that.
I can't figure out why the fluid continued to stream out with the tire positioned the way I had it. And I did not want to let it run out till it stopped.
This summer I had a similar experience with my calcium chloride filled tire on my M9540.
Your tire is over-filled - remove the top piece of the 2-piece valve(at 12 o'clock position) and let it drain into a container. Locate a local Ag tire dealer and buy(I think that it was about $5.00) what they call a 'water valve'(piece that you have removed) and as long as the brass threads are okay in the base of the stem, you should be able to screw the 'water valve' in to the base and air it up to recommended pressure - ready to work!
 

fruitcakesa

Active member

Equipment
M 6040
Oct 26, 2010
703
141
43
Cavendish Vermont
I figured over fill was at play so it's good to have it reinforced by all you, Thanks.
These things always happen on weekends and nothing is close by to get repair stuff.
So it sits jacked up in the dooryard for now
This summer I had a similar experience with my calcium chloride filled tire on my M9540.
Your tire is over-filled - remove the top piece of the 2-piece valve(at 12 o'clock position) and let it drain into a container. Locate a local Ag tire dealer and buy(I think that it was about $5.00) what they call a 'water valve'(piece that you have removed) and as long as the brass threads are okay in the base of the stem, you should be able to screw the 'water valve' in to the base and air it up to recommended pressure - ready to work!
I found these at TSC website but I am not sure if the 2nd pic is what I have.
I believe when I pulled off the "adapter" on the valve stem, it was a female thread left sticking out.
 

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kcs

Member

Equipment
Kubota B2650
Jan 9, 2021
59
8
8
Virginia
I had the same situation with my B2650. I went to check the air pressure on my tires had the valve stem at 12. And liquid came out when I put the air pressure gauge on it
 

fruitcakesa

Active member

Equipment
M 6040
Oct 26, 2010
703
141
43
Cavendish Vermont
Ok folks, all is well.
I drained the excess fluid out, unthreaded the outer stem piece, pushed out the broken core, inserted the new core and put it back on the tire stem.
Aired the tire up to 13 lbs and waited to see if it held air.. and it does:)
As I was adding air, more bubbles pushed out from between the stem and rim but that seemed to stop once the tire was fully aired.
I will see how it holds overnight before giving it a 100% blessing.
 
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tthorkil

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M9540HDC12 / LX2610HSDC / ZD1011-48 / Bobcat S250
Jan 1, 2011
258
51
28
Bagley, MN, United States
If the leak between the rim and valve continues you could try 'gently' tightening the knurled plastic 'nut' at the base of the valve stem. I did not find a picture of the knurled plastic nut type but I found this picture that shows the basic construction of the valve stem - the rubber seal inside the rim will hopefully keep the entire valve from turning.
Water valve.jpg
 

fruitcakesa

Active member

Equipment
M 6040
Oct 26, 2010
703
141
43
Cavendish Vermont
If the leak between the rim and valve continues you could try 'gently' tightening the knurled plastic 'nut' at the base of the valve stem. I did not find a picture of the knurled plastic nut type but I found this picture that shows the basic construction of the valve stem - the rubber seal inside the rim will hopefully keep the entire valve from turning.
View attachment 70128 As I mentioned in an earlier post this tire has a tube and thus has the plastic nut. The example you show is for tubeless tire
 

tthorkil

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M9540HDC12 / LX2610HSDC / ZD1011-48 / Bobcat S250
Jan 1, 2011
258
51
28
Bagley, MN, United States
I read through the previous posts and did not see any mention of a tubed tire but since it is tubed as mine is the air was most likely coming from between the tire and tube.
Tube Water valve.jpg