Newbie in Western Carolina

[GrumpyFarmer]

Good day.

It’s hard for me to have much opinion, based on the detail provided, I don’t think really there is a bad option unless you refine / specify your criteria.

From what I understood above it seems like you may have some homestead tasks, but for me to give suggestion sort of hard as I don’t understand the scope of your work. For example, you have compost bin, correct? How large is it? Single bin, multiple station, stations large enough to get a loader in? Could be barely enough for shovel and wheel barrow or could be big enough to need a B or L? Sort of hard for me to imagine. Either anything from a BX to an M may be fine.

I did not understand d a requirement for a PTO, but maybe I missed it. Mowing with exmark, correct? If no need PTO, do you need a tractor? Or a CTL/CWL? Yes that’s way more than 8…or if want to prioritize the digging maybe a mini ex and have ability for end or arm tool for auger holes or something. I don’t know you do or dont need any of the suggestions honestly, they seem extreme unless know thy task/scope.

Ultimately as others suggested think about what you might want to lift or how much weight you like a machine to have IMO.

It’s your money. Get what you want. If you want a BH, get one, they are awesome. I genuinely think for your tasks, if not need a PTO, then there is a lot of overlap between a BX and B and standard L…I think figure out scope of tasks and how much want to lift or how much machine weight you want to have. That will start separating models that have some overlap.

If really not sure rent some different sizes before you buy, or don’t. Again it’s your money. Get what you want. We will do our best to help you spend it.

 

[HappyTopster]

In the interest of potentially

In the interest of potentially adding confusion…

If you’re doing a good bit of firewood work in challenging terrain a skidding winch might be a consideration. There might be part of the Nantahala Forest region that isn’t “challenging” for low impact logging. I haven’t seen nearly all of it. Parts I’ve seen are somewhere between difficult and requiring a heavy lift helicopter. Anyway, a winch will allow retrieving logs from areas impossible for equipment to access; just have to get within range of the cable.

Combination of grapple and winch allow me to efficiently and safely pull down windfallen trees hung up in other trees, manipulate logs and transport back to the wood yard for processing. With a couple snatch blocks, tree saver straps for anchor points, and some creativity you can retrieve logs from some pretty gnarly places while your tractor stays on solid footing.

It’s still physical; still have to split it and stack it. My prior process was buck and sometimes split to man sized pieces to manually load on a trailer, manually unload trailer at wood yard, final split, and stack: manually picked it up and moved it at least 3 times. With the winch and grapple, I’m getting it to the wood yard in log form, buck it to length, split, and stack. I’m now manually moving it once. I’m not getting any younger, I work alone, and I’ve got a few of those glass shards in my left shoulder plus a knee that sometimes causes folks nearby to ask where the heck that nauseating bone breaking sound came from. But I can pull in a lot of wood really quickly without doing anything to myself a couple Gatorade’s and a magnesium supplement won’t cover.

I have a Farmi W50R rated at 11,000lb. Both Farmi and Wallenstein and maybe some others make one size smaller, but you’d probably need a L size frame to hold it.

Just a thought..,
View attachment 153524
View attachment 153523

adding confusion…

If you’re doing a good bit of firewood work in challenging terrain a skidding winch might be a consideration. There might be part of the Nantahala Forest region that isn’t “challenging” for low impact logging. I haven’t seen nearly all of it. Parts I’ve seen are somewhere between difficult and requiring a heavy lift helicopter. Anyway, a winch will allow retrieving logs from areas impossible for equipment to access; just have to get within range of the cable.

Combination of grapple and winch allow me to efficiently and safely pull down windfallen trees hung up in other trees, manipulate logs and transport back to the wood yard for processing. With a couple snatch blocks, tree saver straps for anchor points, and some creativity you can retrieve logs from some pretty gnarly places while your tractor stays on solid footing.

It’s still physical; still have to split it and stack it. My prior process was buck and sometimes split to man sized pieces to manually load on a trailer, manually unload trailer at wood yard, final split, and stack: manually picked it up and moved it at least 3 times. With the winch and grapple, I’m getting it to the wood yard in log form, buck it to length, split, and stack. I’m now manually moving it once. I’m not getting any younger, I work alone, and I’ve got a few of those glass shards in my left shoulder plus a knee that sometimes causes folks nearby to ask where the heck that nauseating bone breaking sound came from. But I can pull in a lot of wood really quickly without doing anything to myself a couple Gatorade’s and a magnesium supplement won’t cover.

I have a Farmi W50R rated at 11,000lb. Both Farmi and Wallenstein and maybe some others make one size smaller, but you’d probably need a L size frame to hold it.

Just a thought..,
View attachment 153524
View attachment 153523

First off welcome to the forum. Hope the shoulder works out ok. I had two surgery's on the same shoulder and the outcome hasn't been great. Before to much advice is given need to know is the banker {WIFE} going to let you spend 8 grand or 30 grand makes a big difference. Myself I like the HST tractors in the 60HP range and less. I have a MX6000 with loader and really like the tractor. You have the zero turn for mowing so I would buy the biggest HST tractor the boss will let you buy. Happy wife happy life.

I still need a few discussions w/the banker re: realistic $. I’m still over medicated/early recovery so no important decisions to be made yet. I like the L2502. Still prefer gear vs HST. I did ask her if she had any intentions of driving it and she didn’t take me serious, thinking I was just trying to weasle a way to get her support,lol! Why so cynical? So we’ll revisit that. My personal preference is for gear but I’d love her to learn to drive the tractor so I suppose that is an easy concession after all. I imagine re-sale also benefits HST since general public seems to prefer them(makes we want gear even more).

 

[HappyTopster]

In the interest of potentially adding confusion…

If you’re doing a good bit of firewood work in challenging terrain a skidding winch might be a consideration. There might be part of the Nantahala Forest region that isn’t “challenging” for low impact logging. I haven’t seen nearly all of it. Parts I’ve seen are somewhere between difficult and requiring a heavy lift helicopter. Anyway, a winch will allow retrieving logs from areas impossible for equipment to access; just have to get within range of the cable.

Combination of grapple and winch allow me to efficiently and safely pull down windfallen trees hung up in other trees, manipulate logs and transport back to the wood yard for processing. With a couple snatch blocks, tree saver straps for anchor points, and some creativity you can retrieve logs from some pretty gnarly places while your tractor stays on solid footing.

It’s still physical; still have to split it and stack it. My prior process was buck and sometimes split to man sized pieces to manually load on a trailer, manually unload trailer at wood yard, final split, and stack: manually picked it up and moved it at least 3 times. With the winch and grapple, I’m getting it to the wood yard in log form, buck it to length, split, and stack. I’m now manually moving it once. I’m not getting any younger, I work alone, and I’ve got a few of those glass shards in my left shoulder plus a knee that sometimes causes folks nearby to ask where the heck that nauseating bone breaking sound came from. But I can pull in a lot of wood really quickly without doing anything to myself a couple Gatorade’s and a magnesium supplement won’t cover.

I have a Farmi W50R rated at 11,000lb. Both Farmi and Wallenstein and maybe some others make one size smaller, but you’d probably need a L size frame to hold it.

Just a thought..,
View attachment 153524
View attachment 153523

Great info and yes, I’ve done similar w/experience neighbor who has larger tractor. The difference in handling wood 1 vs 3 (or more) times is huge. The L2502 is where I’m leaning. I think it would handle garden/yard and forest duties. I’ve seen pretty new, low hour ones for ~$20k within 4 hours. Just FEL but I can add as needed. Lots to consider.

 

[HappyTopster]

In the interest of potentially adding confusion…

If you’re doing a good bit of firewood work in challenging terrain a skidding winch might be a consideration. There might be part of the Nantahala Forest region that isn’t “challenging” for low impact logging. I haven’t seen nearly all of it. Parts I’ve seen are somewhere between difficult and requiring a heavy lift helicopter. Anyway, a winch will allow retrieving logs from areas impossible for equipment to access; just have to get within range of the cable.

Combination of grapple and winch allow me to efficiently and safely pull down windfallen trees hung up in other trees, manipulate logs and transport back to the wood yard for processing. With a couple snatch blocks, tree saver straps for anchor points, and some creativity you can retrieve logs from some pretty gnarly places while your tractor stays on solid footing.

It’s still physical; still have to split it and stack it. My prior process was buck and sometimes split to man sized pieces to manually load on a trailer, manually unload trailer at wood yard, final split, and stack: manually picked it up and moved it at least 3 times. With the winch and grapple, I’m getting it to the wood yard in log form, buck it to length, split, and stack. I’m now manually moving it once. I’m not getting any younger, I work alone, and I’ve got a few of those glass shards in my left shoulder plus a knee that sometimes causes folks nearby to ask where the heck that nauseating bone breaking sound came from. But I can pull in a lot of wood really quickly without doing anything to myself a couple Gatorade’s and a magnesium supplement won’t cover.

I have a Farmi W50R rated at 11,000lb. Both Farmi and Wallenstein and maybe some others make one size smaller, but you’d probably need a L size frame to hold it.

Just a thought..,
View attachment 153524
View attachment 153523

The skidding winch looks amazing! I’ve never seen nor heard of one.

 

[Orange man]

The L2502 gear drive does not have a live PTO, that can be a real pain with some implements.

 

[HappyTopster]

The L2502 gear drive does not have a live PTO, that can be a real pain with some implements.

Yep. I’m pretty much at peace w/the HTS. Probably easier to sell also if it came to that.

 

[Orange man]

It is a shame that Kubota did not add the live PTO when they did the updates, yes a HST is going to be easier to sell if you ever want to.

 

[HappyTopster]

Good day.

It’s hard for me to have much opinion, based on the detail provided, I don’t think really there is a bad option unless you refine / specify your criteria.

From what I understood above it seems like you may have some homestead tasks, but for me to give suggestion sort of hard as I don’t understand the scope of your work. For example, you have compost bin, correct? How large is it? Single bin, multiple station, stations large enough to get a loader in? Could be barely enough for shovel and wheel barrow or could be big enough to need a B or L? Sort of hard for me to imagine. Either anything from a BX to an M may be fine.

I did not understand d a requirement for a PTO, but maybe I missed it. Mowing with exmark, correct? If no need PTO, do you need a tractor? Or a CTL/CWL? Yes that’s way more than 8…or if want to prioritize the digging maybe a mini ex and have ability for end or arm tool for auger holes or something. I don’t know you do or dont need any of the suggestions honestly, they seem extreme unless know thy task/scope. The skid winch attachment by Norwood looks particularly intriguing. I’ve gotten by using my SXS, 5x8 trailer a chainsaw and some tow straps but it’s too difficult anymore. Leaning towards L2502. Price is about same as LX and I always exceed any equipments specified limits as a matter of principle.

Ultimately as others suggested think about what you might want to lift or how much weight you like a machine to have IMO.

It’s your money. Get what you want. If you want a BH, get one, they are awesome. I genuinely think for your tasks, if not need a PTO, then there is a lot of overlap between a BX and B and standard L…I think figure out scope of tasks and how much want to lift or how much machine weight you want to have. That will start separating models that have some overlap.

If really not sure rent some different sizes before you buy, or don’t. Again it’s your money. Get what you want. We will do our best to help you spend it.

Thank you! The compost bins are large since we get trailers of manure from a nearby horse farm. I’m frequently getting large trees from the forest/ neighbors as well as frequently adding garden beds

 

[NCL4701]

Yep. I’m pretty much at peace w/the HTS. Probably easier to sell also if it came to that.

My L4701 is the first HST tractor I’ve ever operated. Had thousands of hours on gear drive prior, both dry clutch/stick and power reverser. If I was primarily putting a plow or disc in the ground and pulling it from one end of a field to the other and back all day, I’d go with gear. I much prefer HST for utility work: loader, mowing, grading, fork work, grapple work. Disconnecting engine speed from ground speed has significant operational advantages for utility work, in my experience.

The argument for gear v HST I usually see is the power loss with the HST. For my L4701, the gear version has 39.3 PTO HP. HST has 37.8; a whopping 1.5 HP difference. If “HST is inefficient” is one of the reasons you’re thinking gear drive, look at the actual numbers for whatever model your considering.

You can move pallets with a power reverser or plow a field with a HST, but they each have things they’re better at than the other.

 

[NCL4701]

The skidding winch looks amazing! I’ve never seen nor heard of one.

I asked the group before buying mine. Got some good info.

Skidding Winch Recommendation

Example of one of the routine problems. Sample of some of the rigging I’ve been using. We have about 70 acres, most of which is forested. I have probably 20 acres that includes Virginia pines, like those pictures, interspersed with other trees. Problem with the Virginia pines is they live about...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[HappyTopster]

My L4701 is the first HST tractor I’ve ever operated. Had thousands of hours on gear drive prior, both dry clutch/stick and power reverser. If I was primarily putting a plow or disc in the ground and pulling it from one end of a field to the other and back all day, I’d go with gear. I much prefer HST for utility work: loader, mowing, grading, fork work, grapple work. Disconnecting engine speed from ground speed has significant operational advantages for utility work, in my experience.

The argument for gear v HST I usually see is the power loss with the HST. For my L4701, the gear version has 39.3 PTO HP. HST has 37.8; a whopping 1.5 HP difference. If “HST is inefficient” is one of the reasons you’re thinking gear drive, look at the actual numbers for whatever model your considering.

You can move pallets with a power reverser or plow a field with a HST, but they each have things they’re better at than the other.

Thank you. That issue is settled and I feel good about it.
I want to add: This forum has been great. I asked 2 different dealer reps about the winch skid attachment and neither had heard of it! I appreciate everyone’s input here. So much to consider. So many potential pitfalls. As I recover from a painful surgery the hunt for a tractor has been a great diversion and form of therapy.

 

[Tropical Jack]

Hello neighbor! I am in Jackson county, NC near Franklin. 4400’ elevation, very hilly terrain, and in the middle of the forest. I have an L 3301HST. I use my tractor for grading my steep gravel driveway, chipping up the endless branches, helping with firewood splitting and logistics, brush hogging and more! I also have a backhoe, and use it frequently. I have ag tires on my Kubota, allowing me to set my rear tires to a wide position for better stability On our slopes.

My neighbor has a BX with backhoe. He gets an incredible amount of work done with that little tractor; but sometimes needs me to rescue him when his little tractor can’t quite do the job. A BX is incredibly handy in tight spaces!

You might want to come visit us. You could see how the 2 of us cope with the challenge of tractor work in the mountains with different size machines.

Jack

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Consider a B26. A new one is pricey, but if you're willing and able to do repairs, a used one might fit the bill. They're built for the loader and backhoe. The loader isn't removable, if that's required.

It would get you in the game, to at least gain experience on your real needs, without too much financial risk.

 

[HappyTopster]

Consider a B26. A new one is pricey, but if you're willing and able to do repairs, a used one might fit the bill. They're built for the loader and backhoe. The loader isn't removable, if that's required.

It would get you in the game, to at least gain experience on your real needs, without too much financial risk.

That is an option I wasn’t aware of. Thank you! However I would want additional options for the 3 pt hitch like box grader/blade. The skid winch is also an attachment I may look at. I’m still in hunt mode and open to all ideas, though, so thanks again.

 

[PaulL]

If you want to mow with it, I wouldn't get a B26. It's unsatisfying mowing with a loader on.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

That is an option I wasn’t aware of. Thank you! However I would want additional options for the 3 pt hitch like box grader/blade. The skid winch is also an attachment I may look at. I’m still in hunt mode and open to all ideas, though, so thanks again.

@PaulL makes a good point. All compact tractors have a short wheelbase and high CG. Hang a lot of mass off the ends and they tend to buck on the smallest bumps. If you have SSQA you can remove the bucket to help a little.

The backhoe is easily removed and 3ph arms installed.

 

[skeets]

Could you expand on how the B2601 didn’t impress you? I know a lot of people on this site have them so we can leave it at that if you prefer.

I would be delighted to explain, my issues. First of and this is just MHO, the assend should be 6 inches wider for stability that way you wouldn't need to put wheel spacers on it. And the frame about 6 inches longer to accommodate those of us on the ahhh ,,, robust size. It seems rather under powered to me, my 2360 seems to be a must more robust little bugger even when I have it in low range. And who ever the slug was that figure skid steer R4s should go on it,, well I ll leave it at that. I know people love their B2601, I am not one of them. Now don't take me the wrong way it is a very capable LITTLE tractor if used in its class, just a big BX really, and if I was going to do it again, it would be an LX. None of these thing should stop you from looking at a B2601, these are just my beefs, try one if they will let you have it for a weekend, she might just be right up your alley.

 

[PaulL]

I would be delighted to explain, my issues. First of and this is just MHO, the assend should be 6 inches wider for stability that way you wouldn't need to put wheel spacers on it. And the frame about 6 inches longer to accommodate those of us on the ahhh ,,, robust size. It seems rather under powered to me, my 2360 seems to be a must more robust little bugger even when I have it in low range. And who ever the slug was that figure skid steer R4s should go on it,, well I ll leave it at that. I know people love their B2601, I am not one of them. Now don't take me the wrong way it is a very capable LITTLE tractor if used in its class, just a big BX really, and if I was going to do it again, it would be an LX. None of these thing should stop you from looking at a B2601, these are just my beefs, try one if they will let you have it for a weekend, she might just be right up your alley.

Aha. So your main beef is that it's not an LX. Which is fair. It's not, and if you need an LX or an L, then a B is too small.

Notwithstanding those who say property size makes no difference, I still think it's a good first pass for a new tractor buyer to make sure you're in the right territory. Saying "you need the right size tractor for your tasks" is kind of useless for someone who a) doesn't know all their tasks, and b) even if they did, doesn't know what the right size is for those tasks. And I still maintain that for your property size, an LX or an L is probably the right size, unless you can articulate a task that needs something bigger (typically lifting a specific thing - perhaps lifting trees with the grapple), or a task that needs something smaller (usually weight related or fitting into a tight space).

 

[HappyTopster]

@PaulL makes a good point. All compact tractors have a short wheelbase and high CG. Hang a lot of mass off the ends and they tend to buck on the smallest bumps. If you have SSQA you can remove the bucket to help a little.

The backhoe is easily removed and 3ph arms installed.

I won’t be using tractor to mow. The XMark handles that quite well. The BH is great ballast when using FEL.

I would be delighted to explain, my issues. First of and this is just MHO, the assend should be 6 inches wider for stability that way you wouldn't need to put wheel spacers on it. And the frame about 6 inches longer to accommodate those of us on the ahhh ,,, robust size. It seems rather under powered to me, my 2360 seems to be a must more robust little bugger even when I have it in low range. And who ever the slug was that figure skid steer R4s should go on it,, well I ll leave it at that. I know people love their B2601, I am not one of them. Now don't take me the wrong way it is a very capable LITTLE tractor if used in its class, just a big BX really, and if I was going to do it again, it would be an LX. None of these thing should stop you from looking at a B2601, these are just my beefs, try one if they will let you have it for a weekend, she might just be right up your alley.

Thanks you. LX would be smallest I’d go. Leaning L2502HST. I won’t be mowing w/tractor. Really want a BH, grapple, box blade but reality of cost may change final decision. Also new vs used in play.
Every used one I see that looks good is gone the next day. I’m not in a hurry and am enjoying the process of learning. It’s a whole new world.

 

[HappyTopster]

Aha. So your main beef is that it's not an LX. Which is fair. It's not, and if you need an LX or an L, then a B is too small.

Notwithstanding those who say property size makes no difference, I still think it's a good first pass for a new tractor buyer to make sure you're in the right territory. Saying "you need the right size tractor for your tasks" is kind of useless for someone who a) doesn't know all their tasks, and b) even if they did, doesn't know what the right size is for those tasks. And I still maintain that for your property size, an LX or an L is probably the right size, unless you can articulate a task that needs something bigger (typically lifting a specific thing - perhaps lifting trees with the grapple), or a task that needs something smaller (usually weight related or fitting into a tight space).

Exactly! It is a variable in the equation. I have 3 acres but I was getting trees from 2 neighbors with a combined 50 acres. I’m not just working on my own property. The “what” you plan to do w/the tractor is the biggest factor.