New Member & New Acquisition

[Devon Cruiser]

Hello to everyone on here. What a great resource this is. I have recently joined too in preparation of acquiring a project tractor.
I intend using it to get some work done on our 1 acre property within the Dartmoor National Park in South Western UK.
Just as important to me though is to have a project that needs some restoration and baselining to make it fully operational once more.
So after looking for quite a while I have just purchased an old compact tractor I believe it’s called: a Kubota B6200D with a KBF200 FEL and rear link box.
It arrived yesterday on a transport lorry and of course the battery was flat!! But after substituting a fresh donor battery it fired right up and I managed to drive it off and tuck it away in the garage for a proper inspection today.
The good news is that the previous owner had recently split the transmission to fit a new clutch and he said the screen filters were cleaned and the oil replaced. Also two new front tyres were fitted.
I do intent to change all fluids and filters straight away using OEM parts.
But two issues have come to light today which I would also prioritise:
The electrics are a shambles with the only things working being the ignition switch and clutch pedal interlock. Glow plugs are working too. Everything else has been butchered so I will be working through this once my service manual arrives and I can get a look at the circuit diagram.
But of utmost importance is to address a seized left rear brake. The right brake is perfect. But the left brake wont budge. The pedal is 3/4 down and while its pivot is free and freshly greased, the rod going into the hub is solid. So if anyone has any advice for what I will be getting into it would be very welcome.
Otherwise, the engine runs nicely. The FEL operates although some hoses are a worry. The link arms go up and down and the PTO works as does the high / low range, 2wd / 4wd and diff lock.
All in all I’m happy with the machine and excited to make some progress.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Looks like the bucket seals are leaking hydraulic fluid and need replacement.

 

[McMXi]

Hello to everyone on here. What a great resource this is. I have recently joined too in preparation of acquiring a project tractor.
I intend using it to get some work done on our 1 acre property within the Dartmoor National Park in South Western UK.
Just as important to me though is to have a project that needs some restoration and baselining to make it fully operational once more.
So after looking for quite a while I have just purchased an old compact tractor I believe it’s called: a Kubota B6200D with a KBF200 FEL and rear link box.
It arrived yesterday on a transport lorry and of course the battery was flat!! But after substituting a fresh donor battery it fired right up and I managed to drive it off and tuck it away in the garage for a proper inspection today.
The good news is that the previous owner had recently split the transmission to fit a new clutch and he said the screen filters were cleaned and the oil replaced. Also two new front tyres were fitted.
I do intent to change all fluids and filters straight away using OEM parts.
But two issues have come to light today which I would also prioritise:
The electrics are a shambles with the only things working being the ignition switch and clutch pedal interlock. Glow plugs are working too. Everything else has been butchered so I will be working through this once my service manual arrives and I can get a look at the circuit diagram.
But of utmost importance is to address a seized left rear brake. The right brake is perfect. But the left brake wont budge. The pedal is 3/4 down and while its pivot is free and freshly greased, the rod going into the hub is solid. So if anyone has any advice for what I will be getting into it would be very welcome.
Otherwise, the engine runs nicely. The FEL operates although some hoses are a worry. The link arms go up and down and the PTO works as does the high / low range, 2wd / 4wd and diff lock.
All in all I’m happy with the machine and excited to make some progress. View attachment 168304

Welcome and cool tractor! I knew you were in England before I even looked at your location.

 

[D2Cat]

That will be a handy machine and fairly easy to work on. Nice taht you got a loader already mounted on it. Hide that red fuel container or trade it for a yellow one. Don't use starting fluid or gasoline in a Kubota diesel engine.

 

[JohnDB]

Welcome! Sorry I can't offer any suggestions about the seized brake. Unless someone else here has suggestions I'd wait for your service manual to arrive and go from there.

Also, your garage looks waayyy too tidy!

 

[Devon Cruiser]

That will be a handy machine and fairly easy to work on. Nice taht you got a loader already mounted on it. Hide that red fuel container or trade it for a yellow one. Don't use starting fluid or gasoline in a Kubota diesel engine.

Indeed, I never use starting fluid for anything, especially a diesel. In UK diesel fuel cans are Black. The red one is mix for my small engined gear.
I did note the leaking seals on the front bucket, they are on an already long list!!
Where to start! Just do something quite often I suppose. Will look at the electrics first as I have just found that the alternator is not charging either.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Hello,

welcome to the Kubota Forum !

And congratulations to the fine tractor you bought !

Where to start?

You said it yourself already: full service, change all fluids and filters, grease everything, do adjustments if required. I always do that, does not matter what the seller told me. Nobody spends a lot of work and money on a machine he wants to sell.

And maybe do a quick check on electrics, oil pressure light, my "tractor" has an overtemperature alarm horn, check glow plugs, tank gauge, temperature gauge. Check for frayed wire insulation, check all fuses for correct values. Often people get creative when the right fuse is not on hand. My alternator is connected via a fuse, this was blown and prevented battery charging.

Wrt to filters, you may be able to get a complete service kit for your tractor; this would be cheaper than buying all filters individually.

Do you have the Kubota work shop manual? If not, get it, it is essential. Also the operator manual. You possibly find them on kubotabooks.com.

Kind regards,

 

[The Evil Twin]

Welcome! Good project you have. I’m not much help with that. Sorry.
I have to ask: are your tractors right hand drive in the UK?

 

[Hugo Habicht]

Welcome! Good project you have. I’m not much help with that. Sorry.
I have to ask: are your tractors right hand drive in the UK?

Yes, they are all right hand drive in the UK, Ireland, Australia. Same as motorbikes.

 

[Russell King]

For the locked up brakes:
Often there is a lack of lubricant in a couple of places.

One is underneath the tractor where the brake pedals rotate a round bar. There is a grease zerk somewhere that lubricates those support clips that attach the bar to the tractor. May be more than one zerk. May be beneath the floor board or may be a hole through the floor board to reach the zerk(s).

Second is where the actual brake actuator enters the tractor case. This is usually a round bar that enters the case. Rust forms between the bar and the tractor case and locks it in place. Spray that area with a good rust penetrating oil and then try to move the rod into the case.

The second seems to be your problem from how I understand the symptoms you stated.

Also if you intend to paint it there are two different orange colors. I have no idea when the color changed but they don’t match well so be sure to buy the “correct” color for your year (if that matters to you).

Good Luck.

 

[Lil Foot]

Congrats & welcome!
Judging by the paint colors, new rear fenders?

 

[Devon Cruiser]

For the locked up brakes:
Often there is a lack of lubricant in a couple of places.

One is underneath the tractor where the brake pedals rotate a round bar. There is a grease zerk somewhere that lubricates those support clips that attach the bar to the tractor. May be more than one zerk. May be beneath the floor board or may be a hole through the floor board to reach the zerk(s).

Second is where the actual brake actuator enters the tractor case. This is usually a round bar that enters the case. Rust forms between the bar and the tractor case and locks it in place. Spray that area with a good rust penetrating oil and then try to move the rod into the case.

The second seems to be your problem from how I understand the symptoms you stated.

Also if you intend to paint it there are two different orange colors. I have no idea when the color changed but they don’t match well so be sure to buy the “correct” color for your year (if that matters to you).

Good Luck.

Thanks very much for the tips on the brakes. Indeed the pivot is free and greased but the hub end is solid. Will take the wheel off and do exactly what you suggested to see if i can free it up by penetrating oil and persuasion.

 

[Devon Cruiser]

“Congrats & welcome!
Judging by the paint colors, new rear fenders?”

Actually no. The rear end is original paint. The bonnet and FEL look like they have been painted but its now faded to a mustard colour! Matching everything up is going to be a challenge

 

[Devon Cruiser]

Thanks Hugo,
I have managed to source all genuine filters, a new pull to stop and decompression lever plus a bag full of new zirk fittings.
A comprehensive service manual is on its way.
I decided to spend the day on the electrics. I removed the hood to get access to the headlamps which are quite poor and are not working. A refurb may be necessary but I decided to order in some aftermarket lamps of a similar size so will see how they look.
The indicators and rear lights were all rusted up and 4 of the 6 nuts snapped off!
It then took all afternoon to get them off, drill and retap and make new screws etc.
the rear lights have been reinstalled but I am waiting for bulbs now. The indicators may be beyond saving unless i can weld bits of plastic back together. Im not really fussed about the indicators as they will never be used but would like the lights to be fixed properly for use. Might look at the alternators lack of charging tomorrow

 

[Devon Cruiser]

For paint matching , is there a cutoff year for the two different shades of orange? And how could i tell what year my tractor was made? Is there a resource where i can key in the serial number to identify it?

 

[JohnDB]

@Devon Cruiser when you are fixing the wiring, if your machine doesn't already have a warning buzzer for when the key is on/engine not running then I'd add one, based on the oil pressure sender wiring. The warning light wasn't enough for me, wrecked a good battery.

EDIT Also, if replacing wiring, what type of cable-to-connector will you be using... presumably crimp rather than solder, but what type of crimp connector? I avoid the pre-insulated connectors as less reliable than the open-barrel F type. Deutsche would be the ultimate, but probably not so compatible with the existing terminals.

 

[Devon Cruiser]

@Devon Cruiser when you are fixing the wiring, if your machine doesn't already have a warning buzzer for when the key is on/engine not running then I'd add one, based on the oil pressure sender wiring. The warning light wasn't enough for me, wrecked a good battery.

Thats a good tip @ JohnDB, is that to warn of lights left on? What do you mean based on oil pressure sender wiring please?

 

[Russell King]

For paint matching , is there a cutoff year for the two different shades of orange? And how could i tell what year my tractor was made? Is there a resource where i can key in the serial number to identify it?

According to this (from Messick’s, an online dealer) the year of change was “approximately 1989”! Your tractor model was manufactured from 1983 until 1992 so I guess you could use either color, but a dealer would probably be able to tell you when it was sold.

 

[JohnDB]

Thats a good tip @ JohnDB, is that to warn of lights left on? What do you mean based on oil pressure sender wiring please?

Apologies, I just realised that your tractor probably has turn ignition key start/turn ignition key to stop. So my suggestion wouldn't apply because other than stalling it you can't stop the engine and leave the the ignition on. Some older tractors (mine for example) you can stop the engine (with the old style the fuel cutoff pull stop) and forget to turn the ignition key off.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I had my local "auto parts store” mix up some paint for me.

They did a great job.

I would imagine that “paint matching” would be of little concern if your going to repaint the entire unit though.

We have all probably witnessed different “levels of restoration”, so I suppose that factors in too.

Good luck, and keep us updated (with pics of course )