Need help removing this part from bushhog

marrmanu

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B2620 3pt chipper, box blade, post hole auger, custom 3pt chain box with hooks h
Jan 16, 2021
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I just pulled the stump jumper on my RCR1248 due to leaking out put shaft seal.
The shaft is tapered as mentioned.
I heated it up real good with a rosebud, I mean real good, and then placed a steel pipe end cap over the shaft as not to mess up the threads and wacked it real good, the stump jumper popped right off! :)
 
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chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
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The only knowledge I have is what the parts diagrams show. IF I"M SEEING IT CORRECTLY, it appears the pinion shaft has to be removed from the gear box after the gear box is removed from the deck. The stuck part would prevent removing the gear box because the damaged part is larger than the hole in the output cap.
 

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marrmanu

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B2620 3pt chipper, box blade, post hole auger, custom 3pt chain box with hooks h
Jan 16, 2021
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In case you don't already know, the nut securing the stump jumper and the blades get torqued to 425 LBs, at least that is for my land pride rcr 1248.
 

Shawn T. W

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O'Reilly's Auto parts stores, and maybe others "rent" pullers and other stuff ... It's more like you pay full price for it, then when you return it, you get 100% back, if you don't return it, you already paid for it!
 

Flintknapper

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After reading all the other suggestions and mine I would take this approach. Don't even mess with a puller or heat if you don't have those available. Heat MAY damage the shaft and seal. Pull the gearbox to get better access. If you have a puller you could try that first. Screw the nut part way on and split what is left of the hub with a cutoff disc. Be careful not to get into the splined shaft. Once you cut a slot almost to the shaft you can probably break it open with a thick chisel. At that point it should pull off by hand.
^^^^^

This would be my approach as well. The Splined shaft (tapered or not) is essentially 'welded' to the boss of the stump jumer via Galvanic Corrosion (rust) AND the part was heavily torqued to the shaft to begin with.

Use a cut off disc to produce two 'kerfs' in the boss (180° apart). Get as close to the shaft as possible without cutting into it or the threads. Then use a cold chisel to split the ring the rest of the way.

It's going to be a 'fight' regardless the method selected.
 
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