I am in line for a new rotary cutter I looked at a howse 6 FT. HEAVY DUTY that weighs about 850 lb. Do you think my tractor will handle it?
MX5100 ? Is this to big?
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TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Thanks triple R and BullDog for your thoughts I started to go with a light weight cutter but that Heavy duty just looked better.
I'm sure either one would have worked fine but the HD cutter will still be working 30 years from now if used propperly.
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
I ran my Land Pride RCR2672 at about 1100 pounds on my L5030HSTC and never lacked for power. I had to leave the FEL on while mowing steep hills; weights would have worked well, FEL was just easier.
If there is a thing about the hog that I am not sure about is the slip-clutch and keeping adjusted.
If you keep it in the dry when not in use more than likely the slip clutch will never give you any problem. They are for the most part maintenance free.
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
I prefer a slip clutch and keep them under cover, I had to leave one out for an extended time and will adjust it, bt have gone two or three years without needing to adjust otherwise.
Some Howse rotary cutters (bush hog, brush hog, shredder) do not have an access hole in the deck that the user can access the blade bolt(s).
Before buying be certain your prospective purchase does have the hole or you get the dealer to torch-cut (maybe holesaw) a deck hole of sufficient size that you can get a wrench (think socket on a stick / extension).
If it's important to you on a new piece of equipment you can install a hinged or sliding door over the hole. Prevents rainwater and debris from sitting on top of ('inside') the stumpjumper dish.
I fell into a deal and and only after getting it home did I realize mine didn't have the access hole. Howse TechRep says to flip it over and remove the stump jumper to get to blade bolts.
The stump jumper MIGHT come off when new but sure as heck won't a couple years later.
Check the gearbox: many ship dry. Grease all U-joints and telescoping PTO shaft before using.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
Before buying be certain your prospective purchase does have the hole or you get the dealer to torch-cut (maybe holesaw) a deck hole of sufficient size that you can get a wrench (think socket on a stick / extension).
If it's important to you on a new piece of equipment you can install a hinged or sliding door over the hole. Prevents rainwater and debris from sitting on top of ('inside') the stumpjumper dish.
I fell into a deal and and only after getting it home did I realize mine didn't have the access hole. Howse TechRep says to flip it over and remove the stump jumper to get to blade bolts.
The stump jumper MIGHT come off when new but sure as heck won't a couple years later.
Check the gearbox: many ship dry. Grease all U-joints and telescoping PTO shaft before using.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
Stubbyie Thanks for the tip on the Gearbox. Yes it was dry and I would have never knew it seeing all the cutters that I hav had in the past ether had Red Grease because of abad seal or old gear oil allready in them. The cutter is smooth as silk.
gpreuss
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
Stubbyie, that is a great couple of comments. My 35+ year old Montgomery Ward brush hog does not have an access hole for the blade nuts. And the stump jumper plate not only does not like to come off, it is darned heavy when it does! Getting it back on is a chore. The access hole for the blade nuts accomplishes two things - it gets a wrench to the nuts, and gives you something to brace against! I can surely see me keeping my blades a lot sharper - I'll have a reinforced hole in the deck in a day or two...
Thanks,
Gil
Thanks,
Gil
Thanks, GPruess, for your kind comment about my experiences.
You're dang lucky if your stump jumper will come off at all. Shops in my area won't even try--if it doesn't pop right off in ten minutes they just cut it off with a torch.
I've tried using hydraulic pullers and only managed to convert a dish-shaped stump jumper into a football- or watermelon-shaped non-rotating non-stump jumper. So I learned a lesson.
Make sure the hole you cut in your deck is large enough to accomodate the wrench you intend to use. I use a 3/4-drive 1-5/8 socket on a 10-inch extension (don't know what the outside diameter of the socket is). I just cut the hole a tiny bit larger exactly over where the nut would be.
My deck was stout enough I didn't need reinforcement but I can see where that might be a benefit in leaning the wrench against the side of the hole. Weld a plate onto the deck and cut through both or track down a large thick washer to weld in place. A 1-1/4-inch plumbing floor flange comes to mind as a possibility, maybe installed upside-down into the hole and welded into place.
For those that don't want to get involved with 3/4-drive tools, most shredder dealers sell a 'bushhog nut wrench' that looks like a socket on a square- or hex-shaped stick you can get a crescent or pipe wrench onto. You'll need a cheater in either case.
In the same way, a cheap one-shot hole saw might cut a hole in a shredder deck--instead of a torch. I'd use the higher-quality screw-type arbor and expect to shuck off the teeth even if using plenty of oil during cutting. I think the decks in the area of the gearbox, welded reinforcement members, 3-point frame might become a bit hardened and slow to cut, mechanically.
After the nut comes off the bolt sometimes sticks in the hole due to its key. I thread the nut back on flush with the end of the bolt and give it a good whack with a cutoff shovel handle to push it out.
I always clean up my bolts and use new lock washers and a liberal coating of thread sealant when I put mine back together. Make sure the keyway on the bolt(s) is in good shape and not worn smooth.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn. Pics would be great too.
You're dang lucky if your stump jumper will come off at all. Shops in my area won't even try--if it doesn't pop right off in ten minutes they just cut it off with a torch.
I've tried using hydraulic pullers and only managed to convert a dish-shaped stump jumper into a football- or watermelon-shaped non-rotating non-stump jumper. So I learned a lesson.
Make sure the hole you cut in your deck is large enough to accomodate the wrench you intend to use. I use a 3/4-drive 1-5/8 socket on a 10-inch extension (don't know what the outside diameter of the socket is). I just cut the hole a tiny bit larger exactly over where the nut would be.
My deck was stout enough I didn't need reinforcement but I can see where that might be a benefit in leaning the wrench against the side of the hole. Weld a plate onto the deck and cut through both or track down a large thick washer to weld in place. A 1-1/4-inch plumbing floor flange comes to mind as a possibility, maybe installed upside-down into the hole and welded into place.
For those that don't want to get involved with 3/4-drive tools, most shredder dealers sell a 'bushhog nut wrench' that looks like a socket on a square- or hex-shaped stick you can get a crescent or pipe wrench onto. You'll need a cheater in either case.
In the same way, a cheap one-shot hole saw might cut a hole in a shredder deck--instead of a torch. I'd use the higher-quality screw-type arbor and expect to shuck off the teeth even if using plenty of oil during cutting. I think the decks in the area of the gearbox, welded reinforcement members, 3-point frame might become a bit hardened and slow to cut, mechanically.
After the nut comes off the bolt sometimes sticks in the hole due to its key. I thread the nut back on flush with the end of the bolt and give it a good whack with a cutoff shovel handle to push it out.
I always clean up my bolts and use new lock washers and a liberal coating of thread sealant when I put mine back together. Make sure the keyway on the bolt(s) is in good shape and not worn smooth.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn. Pics would be great too.