LX3310 3 pt height

[GeekBoy100]

My three point hitch seems really high. The blower barely touches the ground but the woods chipper will not sit on the ground by close to 8" and I need to put blocks of wood under the chipper. Would a quick hitch help? I'm new to tractors. Thanks

 

[ctfjr]

This might help you:
Video Help

 

[Russell King]

Look at your lower arms and see if there are two holes in the arms. If so you can move both the lift (vertical) links from hole to hole and gain movement but change capacity.

Some of the vertical links also have multiple holes to use.

The top link position in the three holes has to do with the lifting higher than the lower position height.

Probably all covered in the operator’s manual very throughly if you have one. If not then you should try to get one.

 

[GeekBoy100]

Look at your lower arms and see if there are two holes in the arms. If so you can move both the lift (vertical) links from hole to hole and gain movement but change capacity.

Some of the vertical links also have multiple holes to use.

Probably all covered in the operator’s manual very throughly if you have one. If not then you should try to get one.

Thanks, I looked at the lower link and saw the extra hole that should put the implements closer to the ground. I also reviewed the manual. My top link only had two holes, but get the idea.

 

[Old_Paint]

The top link will set the angle or plane of the attachment/implement with that of the tractor but has nothing to do with how far the lower lift arms rotate, ergo, how high it can actually lift something. Changing the plane of the attachment is handy for things like box blades and even your snow-blower. It's more intended to be a levelling device that also helps lift the back end of the implement more to enhance 'departure angle' which keeps the implement from hitting the ground when you're going through low spots. The relative motion of the top link and lower lift arms determine the geometry of the travel of the implement. Some implements such as brush cutters or rear mounted mowers actually have collapsible frames where the top link attaches to allow the back end to be pushed up as well as the implement to level itself on rough terrain. It will only allow the implement to drop down on the back end so much before the linkage draws tight and lifts the whole implement.

Move the lift links (between the upper and lower lift arms) to the hole closest to the tractor on the lower lift arms. You will lose some lift capacity, but gain motion on the arms, meaning they'll go lower and higher at the stops. I had the same problem with my LX2610SU, also exacerbated by oversize tires. My box blade wouldn't touch the floor when parked in my shed unless I extended the top link to the point the front blade didn't touch, meaning it wouldn't cut the soil going forward. Moving the bottom ends of the lift links allows me to lower it a full 10 inches lower than the surface the rear tires are sitting on. My chipper (800 lbs) is probably the heaviest thing I pick up, and I have no problem lifting that.

 

[GeekBoy100]

The top link will set the angle or plane of the attachment/implement with that of the tractor but has nothing to do with how far the lower lift arms rotate, ergo, how high it can actually lift something. Changing the plane of the attachment is handy for things like box blades and even your snow-blower. It's more intended to be a levelling device that also helps lift the back end of the implement more to enhance 'departure angle' which keeps the implement from hitting the ground when you're going through low spots. The relative motion of the top link and lower lift arms determine the geometry of the travel of the implement. Some implements such as brush cutters or rear mounted mowers actually have collapsible frames where the top link attaches to allow the back end to be pushed up as well as the implement to level itself on rough terrain. It will only allow the implement to drop down on the back end so much before the linkage draws tight and lifts the whole implement.

Move the lift links (between the upper and lower lift arms) to the hole closest to the tractor on the lower lift arms. You will lose some lift capacity, but gain motion on the arms, meaning they'll go lower and higher at the stops. I had the same problem with my LX2610SU, also exacerbated by oversize tires. My box blade wouldn't touch the floor when parked in my shed unless I extended the top link to the point the front blade didn't touch, meaning it wouldn't cut the soil going forward. Moving the bottom ends of the lift links allows me to lower it a full 10 inches lower than the surface the rear tires are sitting on. My chipper (800 lbs) is probably the heaviest thing I pick up, and I have no problem lifting that.

Thank you for the details about the top and lower links. I will try on the weekend and learn the difference it makes. Lots to learn!

 

[Old_Paint]

Thank you for the details about the top and lower links. I will try on the weekend and learn the difference it makes. Lots to learn!

One of the lift links is also adjustable so you can change the lateral plane as well. This lets you tilt an attachment sideways to a limited extent. That adjustment is particularly useful for box blades for digging swales (shallow ditches) by lowering one side of the box blade and repeatedly cutting with that side on the lowest grade. Some heavy attachments may have a pronounced effect on the tractor sitting level, which will likely have the attachment unlevel too. The top and side links let you set the equipment level so that you don’t get unwanted performance from your attachment.