Lost 3rd function on new L47

crmorse

Member

Equipment
'20 RTV-XG850, '16 L47 TLB, '06 JCB 506CHL, '99 JD 455G, 1953 Ford 8N
Nov 28, 2016
102
0
16
Anniston, AL
I was happily using the grapple on my new L47 and the 3rd function suddenly stopped working. No click when I hit the button and no little green light on the activation button.

Naturally, I first figured I'd blown a fuse since the light was out but I can't find any listing of a fuse for that on any of the 3 fuse boxes I've found. Next I checked my WSM but can't find anything useful about the wire circuitry in there. (One page has a picture of the valve and the connectors but that's it).

So I removed the cover and crawled around looking at stuff. I must have snagged a stick or something (clearing a new field so there's plenty of murderous missiles out there) because I found one connector pulled out of the plug going to the switch. However, that didn't fix it. The other end of the same wire plugs into the connector on the 3rd function solenoid but it looks like a clean cut and the only other lose wire is a different color and gauge and also looks like a clean cut. Both sides are oxidized so it doesn't seem fresh.

One connector from the solenoid goes to 12v and a CA1a-12V-A-5 relay (had to look it up) and the 2nd wire goes to either ground or 12V (can't remember). The other connector on the same solenoid is identical and one wire goes to the same ground or 12V (I knew I should have taken a picture...) and the 2nd wire is the cut one.

Complication: the loader valve has been leaking since I got it. Shop just fixed that under warrantee but all of the wiring looms are soaked and the electrical tape has all turned into a gooey mess. Oh and several of the connectors have UDT *inside* them. Most suspicious is the relay, it looks like there's even a little bit of corrosion but it might just be dirt... hard to tell

Questions:
1) Does anybody have a diagram of how these wires should run? I have the full WSM if it's in there but I can't find it

2) Does anybody know if both connectors on the 3rd function solenoid should have both wires connected? (Seems like they should but I found some dodging wiring under all that electrical tape so who knows)

3) Do you think the relay is likely the problem or do I probably have another torn wire somewhere?

4) Is there a fuse somewhere I should check?

5) Any ideas on what else to check?
...

Oh and boo on whoever put all these wires on the underside of the valve where they could get snagged like this. There was more than enough length to keep everything on top (and thus inside the guard cover) once I disconnected the solenoid connectors and pulled them up through to the top.
 

crmorse

Member

Equipment
'20 RTV-XG850, '16 L47 TLB, '06 JCB 506CHL, '99 JD 455G, 1953 Ford 8N
Nov 28, 2016
102
0
16
Anniston, AL
Saturday update. I took off all of the plastic looms protecting the wires and found that the 12V power had pulled out of a (really crappy) crimp. Fixed that and checked all other wires and tested the relay but still no joy. I haven't checked voltages yet though because I was a dummy and forgot to take my meter out with me.

I did find this diagram on Messicks, it's part number 120. Unfortunately, that doesn't really help me much.
http://messicks.com/ku/93508?sectionId=235589&diagramId=523040

Anybody got any ideas of what to check next?


Side note, since I had some logs to move and the grapple was down I switched to the forks. They actually worked surprisingly well. Except for getting them dug down into the dirt too much they actually worked better for moving logs than the grapple. I had more control and finesse.
 

scdeerslayer

Member

Equipment
MX5200DT
May 23, 2016
434
1
18
SC
Only one solenoid is wired to a relay? Seems there should be one on both sides if one side needs one. The other side should work if there's an issue with the relay. Neither side working, there's probably an issue before the switches, either a bad connection or a blown fuse. You'll have to trace the wiring to find it.

There's probably not any documentation of the wiring for it, except for maybe in the installation instructions. Maybe try drawing out what you have and post it here, and someone can see an issue with it.

If you don't have one, get a multi-meter. This won't be the only time you'll need it. Even a Harbor Freight cheapie (sometimes free with a coupon) will work, all you really need to see is that you have either continuity or 12+ volts, no precise readings are necessary. Also a pair of these will be very helpful:https://www.amazon.com/Push-Alligator-Clips-Test-Leads/dp/B002AMO5EI as well as a bundle of these:https://www.amazon.com/SE-TL10-10-Piece-Alligator-Clips/dp/B0002KRABU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CEC8ZR28J2EE6ZZAN6AN (can probably find both much cheaper at HF or Northern Tool)

With the meter start at the battery and work your way down stream checking for 12+ volts and checking the switches for continuity.

To test the relay isn't hard with a meter. Put the meter on ohms and touch the leads together to make sure the meter reads 0.00. Using the clips above attach the meter leads to the two switched terminals on the relay. Attach a 12V source to the other terminals on the relay and you should be able to hear it click and the meter should read 0.00. This picture shows your basic automotive relay:http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/Driving_light_relay_wiring_diagram.png Put your test leads on 30 and 87, and your 12V source on 85 and 86.